kahawai

foil and painted finish

20 posts in this topic

hi all,

i have been experimenting with foiled and painted finish on my latest lure. i am fairly new to this combination. i normally do fully painted or photofinish on foil. But i wanted maximum flash on this lure so decided to use foil with translucent and opaque paints. here's a pic of it. it's a mini sized slow sinking left-right jerkbait/glider.

IMG_3112.jpg

tight lines

peter

if you're interested more pics here-

Image hosting, free photo sharing & video sharing at Photobucket

Edited by kahawai

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Kahawai, very nice bait. You Photobucket pics show some superb finishes!:worship:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's good to see you back!

I've always been a big fan of your work!!:yay:

[quote name='kahawai;1

11107]hi all' date='

i have been experimenting with foiled and painted finish on my latest lure. i am fairly new to this combination. i normally do fully painted or photofinish on foil. But i wanted maximum flash on this lure so decided to use foil with translucent and opaque paints. here's a pic of it. it's a mini sized slow sinking left-right jerkbait/glider.

[img']http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c376/big_kahawai/IMG_3112.jpg[/img]

tight lines

peter

if you're interested more pics here-

Image hosting, free photo sharing & video sharing at Photobucket

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Pete - nice work with the foil, and I had a look at Photobucket, you obviously have put in an amazing number of hours on them, for some great colour combos.

I recently fished a few of my foiled (mylar) lures, and found the finish coat was chipping off in slabs - we need to come up with a primer to bind to the foil and for the topcoat to stick to, any ideas here? These lures were coated with D2T, which may be the problem . pete

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Pete - nice work with the foil, and I had a look at Photobucket, you obviously have put in an amazing number of hours on them, for some great colour combos.

I recently fished a few of my foiled (mylar) lures, and found the finish coat was chipping off in slabs - we need to come up with a primer to bind to the foil and for the topcoat to stick to, any ideas here? These lures were coated with D2T, which may be the problem . pete

Pete is the foil lifting or are you having problems with the top coat itself sticking to the foil?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow your lures look great. Keep up the good work. Man you guys make painting look so easy. I'm just starting out, maybe I could become someones apprentice.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Jamie - Just the D2T is coming off, the foil is as good as new, just needs a 'Primer' for the D2T to stick to.pete

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks all!

pete,d2t coming off in chunks? i have not had that happen before. on the couple of fully foiled baits i have done, i spray a thin layer of clear acrylic to seal the text and fin colours in before applying the top coat. now i wonder if that helps to hold the d2t. also the 2 lures have scale texture on the foil, so that may help the d2t hold too.

husky, its good to be back! work doesn't allow me to spend as much time on the lures as i'd like nowadays. I learnt all my stuff from here! so you have to take some of the credit.

tight lines.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Jamie - Just the D2T is coming off, the foil is as good as new, just needs a 'Primer' for the D2T to stick to.pete

Just a guess.

I had the same problem with my wood baits when I used D2T for a top coat. When I switched, first to Etex Lite, and now to Nu Lustre 55 with UV inhibiters, the problem went away. Now, if I have an encounter with a jumping rock, the kind that move into the line of my cast, I get a dent, not a delamination.

To start with, foil is slick.

I think you probably need a clear "primer" to get some bond to the foil. Like a matte clear. Maybe pastel fixative. Almost any rattle can clear has better adhesion than water based paints.

Then top coat with a decopage-type epoxy, like Etex or Nu Lustre. Those epoxies are more flexible than D2T, which is a glue and very rigid.

Kahawai,

I saw you photobucket stuff. Great looking lures, and amazing paint jobs!

Edited by mark poulson

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Jamie - Just the D2T is coming off, the foil is as good as new, just needs a 'Primer' for the D2T to stick to.pete
Pete im an etex man myself and I dont have any experience with d2t. I will have to say that 90% of all my baits are foiled and I never had that to happen to me.I have tried crystal sheen before and it didnt work well with the foil, alot of cracking. It could be that d2t has no flexability to it its and its hard as a rock, and it chips off in big chunks.It could be a temp issue, some foil baits in direct sun or in a hot tackle box all day with certain clears has major issues. Give etex a shot and see if the same problem happens and let me know Im curious to see if that would make the difference.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks guys, for all the cures, I usually do prime the paint with Pastel Fixative or clear schelac, but for some reason did not with the Mylar - as you are all saying, this would be a major reason for the delamination. I am still using D2T, as I have a few tubes to get rid of, and then will probably go to a version of moisture cure Poly or Etex. Thanks again . pete

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Has anyone tried Dicknite's? I have been considering doing a foil job, but have been having a hard time bringing my self to try it since all I make are multiple jointed swimbaits :eek:

TJ

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hazmail,

I remember that a wise man said once that he tries the epoxy first, before applying it on baits, or something like that. He would put some on different materials, to see how how strong the epoxy was. Why don't you put some epoxy on mylar and on different types of foil, to see how strong is the bond between epoxy and mylar? I might guess that epoxy does not bond too well to mylar. But there are also some other reasons why I do not like to use mylar instead of foil.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

on the d2t issue. yes to UV resistant clear. also, have you ever tried adding two drops of 99% isopropyl and 1 drop of ammonia to your d2t per 4 drams? i really don''t have a-lot of experience with the d2t but this just may help with the flex issue. and extend the cure time a bit helping it to flow out better. it works on other fast drying epoxies and i see no reason it won't. it will reduce the tensile but it will enhance the impact resistance and elongation. two of the more important features in a lure coating.

most will know this but for those who don't... in general, the faster an epoxy cures the more brittle it will be.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Where do I get the foil and fins to try on my wooden muskie lures?

Terry

i use adhesive insulation foil from the hardware shop. the fins on my lures are drawn/etched into the foil and then painted. i haven't tried those wonderful looking micro fibettes fins yet, but am keen to do so at some time...

---------

see my gingermojo lures

Image hosting, free photo sharing & video sharing at Photobucket

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
on the d2t issue. yes to UV resistant clear. also, have you ever tried adding two drops of 99% isopropyl and 1 drop of ammonia to your d2t per 4 drams? i really don''t have a-lot of experience with the d2t but this just may help with the flex issue. and extend the cure time a bit helping it to flow out better. it works on other fast drying epoxies and i see no reason it won't. it will reduce the tensile but it will enhance the impact resistance and elongation. two of the more important features in a lure coating.

most will know this but for those who don't... in general, the faster an epoxy cures the more brittle it will be.

This is a good point about the dry time! I "thin" my D2T with acetone. I pour out about a quater size circle of D2T add 2 drops of acetone mix well and apply. It takes about 4 hours for it to harden enough to touch. I have had no problems with chipping of any kind.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Has anyone tried Dicknite's? I have been considering doing a foil job, but have been having a hard time bringing my self to try it since all I make are multiple jointed swimbaits :eek:

TJ

After painting, I normally coat my foil lures with either Etex, before my usual 3 coats of Dicknite's, because DN doesn't want to stick to foil. Lightly sand or scuff the E-tex and give it an alcohol wipe before applying the Dicknite's on top of the E-tex, and avoid contaminating the lure with fingerprints before the DN goes on.

Dean

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

jflures

acetone works but because of the evap rate it can cause blushing. also my information indicates that it will be more apt to soak in water from larger pores created with acetone and swell. i can't say it's going to be a huge problem because i never ''tested'' the amount of swelling. with the mix i proposed it's much less, that's all i know. almost any aliphatic solvent without a high water content will work but 99% isopropyl is best with the ammonia blend. too harsh a solvent and it burns it away. good luck.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now