Paint seperating between layers.
26 replies to this topic
Posted 05 December 2008 - 12:08 AM
As far as getting in touch with Dick Nite. Try giving him a call. He will help you in any way he can. He has a great product and there is a wealth of information on How To Use it on this site.
Dick was also having a problem with email filters tossing his responses into the Spam folders, but I think he got a second email address to resolve the problem.
Posted 05 December 2008 - 09:17 AM
I did a search and read about the oxygen blocker, did you or anyone try it?
Posted 05 December 2008 - 09:29 AM
I did a quick search, and these threads will add to your general knowledge:
Tackleunderground - Search Results
Because Dicknite's is a moisture cure urethane, it needs to be kept in an airtight environment. A metal topped glass salad dressing bottle, or similar is an ideal container because of its large capacity relative to its small opening. A small wine bottle works for the same reason. I use jars, displace the air in the jar with Bloxygen, and seal it tight. I work out of small glass 1/2 oz. jars and seal them airtight the same way immediately after each use.
My good friend David Sullivan (CaptSully) stores his differently by tapping a storage can with a sheet metal screw near the bottom edge of the can, Through usage, the Dicknites in the top of the can will actually skim over, while the product in the bottom of the can remains air and thus, cure free. The sheet metal screw will leak a tiny bit until some Dicknite's cures around the threads, making for a leak-free dispensing tap.
We've posted much on Dicknite's topcoat usage, and preservation. Further searching will yield even more info. Any questions, let us know!!!
Posted 05 December 2008 - 09:46 AM
Yes!!!! Thank You!!!
I figure there had to be a molecular change for the paint to make that much of a transformation, i.e. becoming waterproof, and solvent resistant.
Your explanation is tantamount to a tutorial for those who use Createx, and the company should have this information in its advertising and its product!!!!
Ted, As I suppose you've gathered from my previous answer, Yes I use Bloxygen, and it flat works! It goes a long way also, as does Dicknite's topcoat, so considering the mileages and the toughness of the topcoat, I still consider Dicknite's a value for my lures.
Posted 06 December 2008 - 04:38 AM
A little bird told me that I should add my .02, so here goes. As several have said here, Createx MUST be heat cured. Heat each layer. You can see the difference as you heat it and feel the difference after heating. Molecular action, smolecular action...... I don't know beans about such things. I'm just a dumb, old fireman. Admire those of you who have such knowledge. I just know heating each layer will bond it to the previous layers and there will be no delamination. Enough about this.
Now for the top coat. DickNites is #1 in my book. It is harder than anything else I have used and I have used D2T and Etex. DN goes on so smoothly, so clear, so quickly, and there is no mixing. Plenty of working time, too. I know for sure that it bonds to the paint better than anything else I have used. I know this 'cause I have had to strip some baits after clearcoating 'cause I found flaws that I couldn't be satisfied with. Both the D2T and the Etex pealed off easily. However, the DN had to be shaved off with an Xacto knife 'cause it would NOT delaminate. Now before everyone jumps all over me for what I have just said, let me say that this is just my opinion and preference. All you need to do is check out the work of Fatfingers, Tigger, Mark Poulson, BobP, to mention a few. I think some of these guys use DN once in a while, but they also use others also. What I'm really trying to say is simply that DN is the hardest stuff I have used. JMHO.
Also must add that Taterhog's Spa system is actually powered by his squirrel roaster not that st...st...st...st...oh hell, you know what I mean. By the way, Dean I got a couple of really good used radiators behind the garage...........if you're interested.
I think this epistle should satisfy that little bird. If it doesn't.........
Posted 06 December 2008 - 08:21 AM
Thanks for the reply Captsully18 (David) and all the others that have responded, you and all the others have been very helpful. I will be stealing my wife's hairdryer from now on when painting lures and I'm also going to switch to Dicknite's. He has responded to my request and I will be ordering my first pint today. Well not really, my first pint I should say my frist pint of Dicknite's.
Thanks again to ALL!!!!
Posted 06 December 2008 - 10:21 AM
I recently switched from poplar to PVC decking for my jointed swimbaits, and learned something interesting.
The hardness of the lure body goes a long way in determining how the topcoat will perform.
I hit the rocks hard twice last week with one of my new lures, and it didn't even dent or scratch. It was painted with Createx, with two coats of Nu Luste 55 epoxy, which is similar to Etex.
I was amazed.