9 replies to this topic
Posted 03 December 2008 - 10:28 AM
Guys this is my first post here. Trying to find out what basic things I need to get started with lure painting. Mostly will be repainting old and worn cranks. What basic equipment do I need besides an airbrush,compressor, etc.?
I will be doing this in my garage. Thanks......cliff
Posted 03 December 2008 - 11:43 AM
use the search feature for this forum. you might try searching using your title, air brushes, top or clear coat...
Posted 03 December 2008 - 11:57 AM
If you have the airbrush worked out, all you need is water based acrylic airbrush paint and a system to clearcoat your lures after painting. Hobby stores like Michaels and Hobby Lobby sell Createx, a standard brand. WASCO at WASCO -- Wildlife Artist Supply Company carries a multitude of airbrush colors including many wildlife colors. Most guys heat set the paint with a hair dryer after shooting each color. As far as details on lures, you can buy some small fabric netting at local stores to make the fish scale effect. Wrap it around the lure and hold it on with clothespins while you shoot through it. And you might want to buy some "frisket material" at the hobby store to make templates for your gill slits and "kill spots". If you want factory made eyes, you can order them here from a TU sponsor or from other sources. That's a start on painting. For clearcoating, one of the simplest and best is Devcon Two Ton epoxy (NOT Devcon 5 Minute!), sold at Walmart in a double 30 ML syringe for around $2. It's an epoxy glue that cures slowly enough to brush on, and it cures in 24 hrs to a clear, durable, waterproof coating. It's used by a lot of hobby builders and some custom builders too. Mix it thoroughly and brush it on, then rotate the lure for the first 40 mins to prevent running or sagging. You can do that manually or use a homebuilt lure turner that runs 2-8 rpm. There are lots of variations and refinements to lure finishing and you'll find your own as you progress. A search on this forum and in the TU "How To" tutorials will provide tons of more detailed information.
Edited by BobP, 03 December 2008 - 11:59 AM.
Posted 03 December 2008 - 02:29 PM
Don't think I could have said it any better myself...
Theres a lot of hype about cheap but quality airbrushes going around (airbrushcity). Some well respected guys have given these pretty good reviews. I am personally looking to check these out myself, especially since there are claims that these brushes are better than the high dollar ones.
As for repaints, I personally like Enviro Tex gloss. This is a thinner coat than D2T and has less action alterations. You can find this at ACE and True Value hardwares (the stuff is used for tables and bar tops). Not to bash D2T. I use this stuff on my own cranks. The thicker coat gives the lure more durability and helps to smooth out the surface a little more than E-Tex. Good thing to apply these clear coats is just some cheap plastic brushes you get in the hundred packs from Hobby Lobby. I haven't had too many problems w/ loosing bristles and the price is right.
Welcome to our addiction... and your wife's worst nightmare!
Posted 03 December 2008 - 03:35 PM
thanks for the replies:)
I have a hobby lobby next door to my workplace. I found the compressor/airbrush kit for $350.00. Does this sound right? They had several colors of paint as well. Wondering about ventilation as well. I plan on doing this in the garage. Would box fans do o.k.?
Posted 03 December 2008 - 04:26 PM
Usually you get what you pay for in airbrush equipment but since you will be painting in the garage, you COULD use a small tool compressor with integrated air tank (around $100 give or take) and buy a separate airbrush w/hose for less than $100 too. The only extra parts you need are a pressure regulator, a moisture trap and a few hose adapters to put a system together (another $40 maybe). Now's a good time to shop for compressors. I've seen a 3 gal Porter Cable model on sale at Home Depot or Lowe's for $99. Tool compressors with air tanks are nice because they run only when storing pressure in their air tank. Since the airbrush uses so little air, the compressor seldom runs - unlike an airbrush compressor that runs every time you pull the trigger. And there are some nice looking airbrushes being sold for $39 to $69. Check some of the threads in this forum for further info. As far as airbrush styles, I strongly prefer a gravity feed internal mix brush with a .2 or .3 mm tip. At the discount prices available now, you could buy 2 brushes for well less than $100. Check nbimarketing.net and find the recent thread in this forum about their brushes. They're even offering TUers a discount from already good prices. A nice extra, their products have a MAC air valve on the brush for fine tuning the amount of air you are shooting (but you still need the regulator on the compressor to limit pressure to about 50 lbs maximum). I paint in my garage and run an exhaust fan in the window or open the garage door. You can wear a paper particle mask for protection as long as you only shoot acrylic airbrush paint. Solvent based lacquers require better protection.
Posted 03 December 2008 - 07:33 PM
This will all depend on the type of paint you use - solvent based paint could explode on contact with the electrical current. You may want to start with a TU & internet search on paint booths and spray booths. Several guys have posted info on how they built their booths - they seem to function well.
An off-the-shelf open front spray booths that comply with all OSHA and NFPA regulations with explosion proof fans run $2500.00 to $3500.00.
Posted 03 December 2008 - 08:07 PM
An off-the-shelf open front spray booths that comply with all OSHA and NFPA regulations with explosion proof fans run $2500.00 to $3500.00.[/quote]
Another thing that makes me laugh!!
How can somthing be "EXPLOSION PROOF"?
This guy wants to paint a few baits, that's all. We don't want to scare him away with "EXPLOSION PROOF FANS".
Edited by Riverrat, 03 December 2008 - 08:08 PM.
Posted 04 December 2008 - 12:16 AM
Acrylics are the way to go for a first setup, but many lure artists prefer to use solvent based paints such as lacquers.
If you spray solvents you need to worry some, until you have an explosion proof fan. Expensive but necessary. There are cheaper ways of achieving an explosion proof system. One way is to belt drive your fan from a separately mounted motor box. Keeping the fumes away from the motor windings is crucial.