2 new swimbaits
6 replies to this topic
Posted 07 December 2008 - 11:15 PM
one is a 4" blue gill (5" with tail) the other is a 7" 4 segmented trout (8" with tail) they still need to be weighted and painted
Posted 07 December 2008 - 11:27 PM
Looking good Matt.
You have more patience than I. Good luck with the ballast, doesn't appear to be a lot of room, especially in the blue gill. I guess a trench along the bottom and lay the lead as a strip.
Don't forget to seal against water and test for the lead weight and position externally, before cutting, but I am sure you are on top of things and have a good plan.
Posted 07 December 2008 - 11:38 PM
thanks vodkaman!.. on the blue gill there is 2 holes that i drilled for the weights and one right behind the belly hook.. i gonna wait to see how the tail end works before i drill a hole for weight.. should be around 3.5oz.
the trout will be weighted to about 5oz... the tails were the hardest part.. i had paint brush bristles glued all over my fingers:lol:
Posted 08 December 2008 - 01:22 AM
Matt. I did notice the holes, they look about right, compared to what others are doing. 3.5ozs just doesn't sound right, was that a guess? Looks more like 2ozs for the completed lure, but I am only guessing too.
You may not need weight in the tail, as you have used two hinges. Many I have noticed, using a single eye in the tail, this would probably need lead to keep the tail straight.
I guess the bristles thing is a case of comming up with a routine that works for you. A few more tails and you will have it sorted.
Being left brained means I am very organised, I have routines for everything. Working with solvent based materials, usually means having a piece of kitchen roll soaked in acetone, ready for wiping my fingers on.
Posted 08 December 2008 - 03:14 AM
@ matt duarte
Some nice looking lures you've made there !
Concerning the bristle tail fins , check this out :
Got that advise about taping the bristles from someone here on TU , wasn't that tricky to do , and I could set in the fins after painting !
good luck:yay: , diemai
Posted 08 December 2008 - 11:33 AM
thanks for the tip diemai... lol i had super glue all over my fingers! hot glue sounds a lot better and probley easier to work with.... now i just got to find out what type of sealer would work best.. i was thinking fiberglass resin with hardner seemed to be pretty tough, for the first prototype i use minwax polycrlic...it worked but its really thin even after about 10 coats
Posted 08 December 2008 - 08:00 PM
Matt. I would like to use fibreglass resin as a sealer too. It is rock hard, perfect for balsa and is very cheap too. I have been sealing prototypes with it, so they really don't get tested out properly.
My concern is the water proof issue. Someone raised the question a while back, so I did a web search. Boat builders that use it, seal the outside to waterproof and protect the fibreglass resin, using epoxy resin.
If your top coat holds, then it would be fine, but if the top coat is breached and the resin is exposed to damp over a long period of time, it could be a problem. But your paint would have peeled off by then.
I too would like to know if anyone out there uses it to seal, as I would also like to use it for sealing and fixing my twisted wire eyes in.