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Differences in working with ETEX VS D2T
28 replies to this topic
Posted 11 December 2008 - 10:45 AM
I was thinking that a horizontal drying wheel would solve this problem, and then I remembered the dorsal fin.
I would ask both Snax and JRHopkins, as they both do fibbet (sp?)fins really well.
I suspect they install the fins after the epoxy is applied. That might be difficult with Etex or Nu Lustre, due to them both being low viscosity and wanting to fill the fin slots, but I'm pretty sure it's manageable.
I guess you could cut the fin slots after the lure is top coated, seal the slot (if it's a wood lure) with runny crazy glue, and then epoxy or hot glue (per Snax method) the fins in place.
I've been to chicken to try fins so far, even though I bought some of the fibbets a year ago.
Posted 11 December 2008 - 11:22 AM
The dry spots yall are refering to are fish eys and 9 times out of 10 it will be a contamination issue either from oil on your hands or from some other source. I have seen this happen when measuring epoxy from syringes that have the rubber plungers like the medical ones. Many times these are lubricated from the factory with silicone and let me tell you, silicone and epoxy don't jive at all. Also, whatever you do, keep all aresols of any kind away from anything that may come in contact with anything involved in the finishing process from the brush, to the cup, to the bait. One time, I had just put a fresh coat of finish on one of my custom rods. I had it set up on the turner which was on the kitchen table. My wife soon came by within about fifteen feet of the table and sprayed some air freshener and boom! The decal area of my rod became all pock marked like the moon...little craters everywhere! It is important to note that the contaminate does not have to come in contact with the epoxy post application. I had a rod that was wrapped and set aside in the corner for a week before I was able to applly finish to the wraps and had the same problem as stated above. I asked my wife if she had again sprayed anything. She finaly broke that she had, but it had been several days before. I am not a chemist, but I'm pretty sure that letting the mixed epoxy sit a bit will not help things at all. After you mix it, it is either mixed or it isn't. If it needs time to sit and react, as far as I am concerned it should just as well sit on the bait and react. All you are goin to do is waste your working time in my opinion. The only other time I have seen something like this is when applying a second coat. The theory is, the previous coat is so slick from not being in a water break free condition, the the epoxy won't stick well and actually pulls away from an area or spot, but it generally won't be a "pock" or "crater" like is typical with contamination where the epoxy is repelled.
As far as adding more hardner to the mix like Mark suggests, I would be very cautious. You are just asking for disaster with most epoxies. Some are VERY particular about getting an exact mix for a proper cure. Others not so much. As far as the Nu-Lustre stuff Mark is using, I have no experience. It is my understanding though that the more quality epoxies are generally more particular about exact ratios. If you are worried about the ambient temp, you can hit the bait just a little with a hair dryer before applying the epoxy. Also, if you put a desk light (the ones with a flexible neck) with 100W bulb pointed at the bait while it turns, the temp won't be an issue unless it is very cold. It will also help it cure a little faster than normal during normal temps. Just make sure you don't put too much heat on the bait, or you will cause the epoxy to "boil" and create a bunch of bubbles. Just test the distance from the bait to the lamp with your hand to make sure your not too close.
Sorry to be so long winded here, but I know this can be a frustrating issue for some who may not understand exactly what is happening. Hope it helps someone.
Posted 12 December 2008 - 01:19 AM
I know one of my biggest problems has been the cold weather here in the midwest has killed me using D2T. In an attempt to warm up my basement workshop I put one of those oil filled radiator type space heaters next to the work bench my drying wheel was on. I moved the wheel close to the edge so the lures were turning out over the edge of the bench and all the warm air from the heater passed up and over the lures. My lures coated with ETEX dried in half the time. It was purely by accident and convenience because the only available plug was with my drying wheel...but most of my best ideas are accidents!!!!
I'm still not sure it's worth the extra drying time but it sure is much less unpredictable and annoying than D2T this time of year for me.
Posted 12 December 2008 - 01:53 AM
You are darn right about keeping the accurate relations when mixing epoxy:yes: , at first I also have had problems with it , it just would remain tacky .
The epoxy , that I use , has to be mixed 10:4 (resin:hardener) , which is not quite easy to estimate .
Many years ago my wife had to go to hospital for surgery , so as I visited her there for the first time , I came across those small medication containers , that many of the patients had left standing at their bedsides , to be littered after use by the medical staff .
I asked her to gather them for me , so when she was released after a couple of days , she brought a few dozens of those containers , wich I all cleaned up thoroughly .
They come in very handy for the purpose , have a divider scale of 1 millilitre steps , so I can mix my stuff accurately .
Off course I have by now used them all up , but on a fleamarket I have found a few hundred of just the same ones for little money , and I have also ordered for similar ones at the local chemists before .
Greetz , diemai
Posted 12 December 2008 - 12:08 PM
I've found that if I err on the side of slightly more hardener, the Nu Lustre 55 still sets, but a little more quickly, in cold weather.
I'm talking about 5 grams of resin and 6 grams of hardener.
Posted 18 December 2008 - 09:57 AM
his week I 'discovered' that Etex will not harden AT ALL in temperatures around freezing...
I have my little shop in a cabin in my garden and don't want to let the heater on for 12 hours, but discovered that 24 hours of turning later, the etex was still drippingwet. You never stop learning..lol8O
Posted 18 December 2008 - 10:03 AM
I don't think any epoxies like freezing weather. In fact, I don't know many people who like it, either.
Try putting a desk lamp, the ones with a flexible goose neck, over the lure turner, just to keep the temps above freezing. Or bring the turner into the house. The fumes from Etex are alcohol, so how bad would that be?
Posted 18 December 2008 - 04:02 PM
You can chalk the slots with cardboard and a bit of chapstick(like mentioned) and then add the fins after with epoxy or super glue. If your worried about sealing the slots do so before hand with Smith & Co CPES and a needle.
As for Etex and D2T both have their hangups. D2T can be hard to find before its started to yellow but I do like how fast it sets up and the mill thickness you can achieve. Etex takes forever to dry and do multiple coats which in turn can cause more yellowing... however it does give a good finish. Like Downriver Tackle has said before there are many different formula's for epoxies. Etex is an interior bartop epoxy and D2T is a glue neither are UV resistant...LOL hopefully what he's got in the lab coming builds like D2T,dries hard as Urethane,has a shelf life longer than 30 days,and is UV resistant!
Fisheyes can be a combination of things...like everything already mentioned it can also be from forcing too thick a coat on. I like to thin my epoxies just a hair and do multiple coats depending on the bouyancy of the bait.
Posted 18 December 2008 - 06:51 PM
I switched from Etex to Nu Lustre 55 with UV inhibiters, because I didn't like the yellowing. The Nu Lustre goes on like Etex, and it hasn't yellowed so far. I've been using it for six months. I leave my lures on my deck all day when I'm fishing, which is once a week, and the white and silver lures are still white and silver.
That's a good thing.