matt duarte

is this the right stuff?

18 posts in this topic

Thats the right stuff,the 2 ton is my favorite,it allows for more workable time before it sets up,it does come in a 9oz kit,1 bottle of 4.5 ounce rezin and 1 bottle of 4.5 oz hardner,you can get it on line at some of the hobby stores,the 90z is a better value for your money,one note,your not going to get rid of the wood look with this,do all of your sanding and finish work or it will still show,you just wont feel the grain.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When you think you have sanded it enough to get rid of the wood grain, just really look at it to make sure. Get 400 grit paper to finish it off even before you seal the lure and again after the sealer is dry. Otherwise a soon as you put down the base coat / primer all those flaws will just jump out at you. You might be able to sand them out of the seal coat and you might just end up sanding them out and re-sealing it again.

The D2T will help level out some irregularities but not all of them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, it the right stuff but you can buy it at most Walmart stores (in the paint dept with the glues) for $1.97, and avoid shipping charges.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

awesome guys thanks! gotta love walmart! haha... i think im gonna try this fiberglass resin with hardner i messed with it on a blank piece of wood and it got pretty damn hard.. couldnt gouge it with my finger nail.. so it should be good? and i think it dries clear..

do you guys epoxy over your paint job to? or justa thick clear coat will do?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would be very hesitant to use a fiberglass resin as a clear coat. In my experience, they yellow, and are brittle. D2T is also brittle, as it is designed as a glue.

I've found I need a clear coat with some give, so when the wood or whatever I've used to make my lure expands and contracts, the top coat moves with it.

And being more flexible means it will be more forgiving of accidental encounters with rocks. Dent, not chip or flake off.

I've found decopage type clear coats, like Etex or Nu Lustre 55, both of which are designed to be applied over large wood areas, work much better for top coating lures.

Others use Dick Nite's urethane coating. I haven't, so I can't comment on it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I Use the devcon 2 ton,Ive made several thousand lures using it as a top coat and have never had my musky lures,bass and pike Lures crack,the 3 ton does give and is not brittle in all of my applications,Its also easier to use and handle then the other clears mentioned but its a personal preference,your going to here diff stories from everyone about diff clears,try them yourself and see what works for you.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i suggest starting out keep it simple. simple is fast drying. buy a rottiserie and make a simple turning device. theres plenty of designs here. i still just use the simple bar on 2x4 frames with 6 turners. a few more on standby just in case. and another dozen in the box for replacements. anyway... then graduate to e-tex. if they are for you e-tex will be cool. when you want to sell? by then you'll know what you want. if you want alot of devcon buy it by the gallon (or less/more) at the devcon website or a distributor they recommend. some use acetone to thin d2 (blushes i'm sure) with two drops to a blob. i never went with devcon much ( for lure coating) but i've used 2 drops of 99% isopropyl and one drop of ammonia per 4 drams ... drams not grams...to extend cure time, create better flow and uniformity and make it less brittle. hope this helps.

Edited by b1gf1sh1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

awesome info guys thanks a bunch...i guess fiberglass resin isnt the way to go. ill probley go buy some devcon and etex..etex can be bought at a craft or hobbie stores right? im guessing since these dry clear that you coat the bait before and after paint?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
im looking for a thick coat to get rid of that "wood look"
awesome guys thanks! gotta love walmart! haha... i think im gonna try this fiberglass resin with hardner i messed with it on a blank piece of wood and it got pretty damn hard.. couldnt gouge it with my finger nail.. so it should be good? and i think it dries clear..

do you guys epoxy over your paint job to? or justa thick clear coat will do?

Hey Matt

There aint no substitute for preperation. Take a leaf out of the car finishers book, that puppy has to be smooth as glass, I go down to 1200 grade wet & Dry (used dry only) I've lost count of the number of times I thought a lure was smooth but put that base on and realized I had a lot more work to do on it.

Mark is spot on about fiberglass resin, it is not the correct resin to be using, unless of course you are making a boat.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

good deal... i think im going to go pick up that nu lustre 55 i read u on it last night and i like that sound of a galssy finish... so this stuff goes on before and after paint? or just seal the bait with it and paint and leave it as is...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Matte,

I would not recommend Nu Lustre for sealing you bait. It's a waste of a good product.

If you're using PVC, then there's no need to seal before painting.

If you're using wood, try Minwax Wood Hardener, which you can get from Home Depot.

It penetrates and seals. And makes softer woods harder and stronger.

I typically pour some in a coffee can, soak my wood bait pieces in it for ten seconds, and then hang them to dry. You can see the Hardener chasing the air out of the wood as it penetrates, because little air bubbles are being forced out of the end grain.

I do the soaking just before I'm ready to install the hook hangers, hinge screw eyes, line tie, and ballast. But I've already got all the holes drilled, so the Hardener goes into those holes, too.

I let the Hardener dry overnight, install the hardware, and start painting. I'm pretty sure I could just wait for it to be dry to the touch to start installing the hardware, but I don't want to take any chances on there being a poor bond between the wood and the glue I'm using, or having some trapped solvents that might screw up my paint job, so I wait overnight.

Save the Nu Lustre 55 for top coating the finished lure.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

o ok sweet mark! i had it all wrong i thought you guys were using he epoxy type stuff for water proofing as well...

so i make the bait, water proof, weight,paint,and than the top coat

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
o ok sweet mark! i had it all wrong i thought you guys were using he epoxy type stuff for water proofing as well...

so i make the bait, water proof, weight,

TEST, paint,and than the top coat

Make sure you swim test before you invest all that time and love in a paint job.

I learned that the hard way. :pissed:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mark went looking for minwax wood hardner today couldn,t find it. Is that what it,s actually called or maybe something else.Tryed home depo and a few other places lots of minwax products on the shelfs just no hardener. Might not be available here who knows,

Jimbo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Step 1 - waterproof/undercoat with epoxy, wood filler, propionate, wood hardener, etc. Sand it smooth.

Step 2 - color basecoat with acrylic latex (usually white)

Step 3 - airbrush the fish design with acrylic latex paint

Step 4 - Clearcoat with an epoxy, DN poly - something tough, clear and waterproof

You can use Devcon 2 Ton or Envirotex Lite (aka ETEX) epoxy for both steps 1 and 4 if you wish. Dilute mixed D2T 50/50 with denatured alcohol or lacquer thinner to use as a penetrating waterproofer. If you randomly substitute solvent based waterproofers and clearcoats, you will run into compatibility problems like delamination, bubbling, running and other bad results. Find a finish system you like that is compatible, and stick with it. JMHO

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Jimbo,

I got mine at the Home Depot near my house, in the paint department.

It's called Minwax Wood Hardener, and it comes in a yellow metal can shaped like a pop bottle.

If I were you, I'd google Home Depot and see if they list it as something they carry. They may have stopped, but it's used a lot by painters to repair rotten wood before they bondo and paint.

Home Depot also has a store locator, plus you can look up what products each store carries, I think.

I also found it on a couple of websites by googling Minwax Wood Hardener.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

BobP,

You and Nathan B. helped me solve a mismatched paint problem when I first visited this site two years ago, and that kept me painting and building.

So I have you to blame!!!!:lol::lol::lol:

Thanks again.

Step 1 - waterproof/undercoat with epoxy, wood filler, propionate, wood hardener, etc. Sand it smooth.

Step 2 - color basecoat with acrylic latex (usually white)

Step 3 - airbrush the fish design with acrylic latex paint

Step 4 - Clearcoat with an epoxy, DN poly - something tough, clear and waterproof

You can use Devcon 2 Ton or Envirotex Lite (aka ETEX) epoxy for both steps 1 and 4 if you wish. Dilute mixed D2T 50/50 with denatured alcohol or lacquer thinner to use as a penetrating waterproofer. If you randomly substitute solvent based waterproofers and clearcoats, you will run into compatibility problems like delamination, bubbling, running and other bad results. Find a finish system you like that is compatible, and stick with it. JMHO

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now