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Need some feedback (Workshop)
13 replies to this topic
Posted 16 December 2008 - 05:38 PM
My workshop is not heated, except when I am out there. I want to make a box to go over my drying rack, with space to store my paints. I am having trouble with adhesion with top coat, and I think it is because of humidity and temp. I want to put a light bulb in the box for heat on a thermostat. I use laquer based paints and top coat. My only worry is, could I have an explosion with this process? Chime in with any feedback.
Thanks in advance,
Posted 16 December 2008 - 07:30 PM
I think you are correct, the bulb switch mechanism may arc, but this would be mounted outside the box. But if the bulb burst for what ever reason, the filament would be exposed. It's just too risky.
An alternative is available in the home beer brewing industry, a heating mat. The one I owned was an aluminium plate about 18" square. I used it to keep my tarantula warm in the UK winter.
Posted 16 December 2008 - 07:40 PM
Once the paint is dry, that's completely safe.
I'd look for info online about the clear you're using....look to see if it's flammable after spraying, not just during. I personally think that once it's not atomized that you'll be fine. Try some experimenting with it before you make your booth.....see if you can light it on fire after spraying it onto a piece of metal or something.
Posted 16 December 2008 - 08:46 PM
O.k. I have looked at some heat mats, probably are safer than a lite bulb. But I will have to mount the thermostat inside the box to keep the heat mat from running constantly. That still does not make the box safe does it? I thought this was a good idea, but I think it isn't going to be practical.
Posted 16 December 2008 - 10:22 PM
You can buy thermostats that come with a capillary tube (a coiled tube filled with gas or mercury ?? drill a hole thru the box stick the end of the tube thru and mount the stat on the outside. They are used for saunas, walk in freezers etc.You just have to find one that has your temperture range. A small appliance parts supplier might have something.
Posted 17 December 2008 - 01:50 AM
Another idea. Make all wire connections outside the box. Build your box with a glass top and side. Mount the lamp so it shines through the glass then into the box. If the bulb explodes, there's nothing to make a spark where the fumes can get concentrated enough to explode.
Unless the thermostat itself catches on fire, you have no risk of the fumes igniting. At that point, you'd have other fire concerns.
Just make sure your clear doesn't need a fresh supply of air to cure properly. You should eb able to contact the manufacturer to find that out.
Edited by clamboni, 17 December 2008 - 01:53 AM.
Posted 17 December 2008 - 02:04 AM
The beer mat heaters do not get excessively hot. You can touch them with your hand, so I doubt you would need a thermostat.
When I used it for the tarantula, I built my own thermostat, just incase I roasted the critter.
Posted 17 December 2008 - 02:27 AM
IN CASE you roasted him? Isn't a thermostat an afterthought at that point?
Posted 17 December 2008 - 02:38 AM
Lol, no, I was ahead of the game. I had the thermostat already, I had built for another project.
The mat is designed to hold 5 gals of fermentation at around 80F. If you feel the air is too warm, you can always introduce a vent hole. The application you have in mind is not temperature critical, so I feel that a thermostat would be over kill.
Posted 17 December 2008 - 07:04 AM
we use the same lacquers. they only require minimum heat to set for epoxys we run lo-heat thru the nites to barely keep above freezing. years back we constructed a 4byft box with heating bulbs and fans from the bathroom section. they heated the box very well and moved air. that was done for spoons on racks. for cranks it could be done quite easily. hope this gives you an idea.
Posted 17 December 2008 - 01:37 PM
Hmmm....roast spider and beer.... Must be an aquired taste. I'd have to go heavy on the beer for that one.
Posted 18 December 2008 - 06:28 AM
Thanks for all the replies guys. I have gotten some ideas. The main use for the box would be for the raw baits, not really for curing. But I wanted to store my paints and topcoat in it just to keep from getting so cold. A friend of mine who makes baits was thinking out loud one day and said he warmed his paints before use, and thought maybe because mine were cold could be the problem. I'm thinking know it's a humidity problem.
Thanks again gents
Posted 18 December 2008 - 09:42 PM
If that is the Case cant you just build two boxes one on top of the other. Keep the paint and top coat in the top box (heat rises), the bottom box (were the heating element is) for the raw baits.
Posted 19 December 2008 - 05:38 AM
I sell Radiant Heat panels that are used for other things and I use one in my box.
These are totally safe but not cheap.
About $60 shipped but well worth the saftey