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Component Systems Seal-Coat
6 replies to this topic
Posted 18 December 2008 - 11:40 AM
I have a sample of CSI Seal-Coat and Epoxy Top Coat. I want to experiment with both to decide which is more convenient to apply. But I want to know if you guys have found the Seal-Coat to be as durable. It says it is as durable as their Epoxy Top Coat.
Also, which of the two would you guys prefer for a first-coat sealer on balsa cranks, and which would you prefer for the final outer coat after painting?
Posted 18 December 2008 - 12:27 PM
To add to my previous post, do most of you who work with balsa lures seal your lures before testing them in water and before placing ballast weights?
I would like to experiment with different weight placements as i make more lures. But I don't want my tests to be thrown off because the balsa has absorbed a bunch of water. Should i seal, then test and drill to add lead, then re-seal, or should i test, drill to add lead, and then seal at the end?
Posted 18 December 2008 - 01:06 PM
I am only making small bodies, around 3.5". The reason for using a light wood like balsa, is generally to maximise the action, otherwise you might as well use a stronger, denser wood. If you spread the weight around on a balsa body, you are cancelling out the qualities that a buoyant material gives you. The idea is to get the ballast at the pivot point of the action.
So, my ballast can really only go in one place, the belly hanger. So I drill holes just in front and just rear of the belly hanger, then seal the body. Then I can just vary the amount of lead in each hole to find what I want.
Yes, sealing before testing is essential.
Posted 18 December 2008 - 03:19 PM
Definitely seal the bait before you get it wet. It takes a long time for wood to dry. I use thinned D2T epoxy or acetone/propionate to seal balsa because they both reinforce as well as seal. You can tell how a bait will FLOAT in a pail of water and that's useful on suspending baits and topwaters. But If you want to know how it PERFORMS, the only way is to retrieve it in a lake or pool. So I go ahead and ballast the bait, finish it and take it for a spin on the lake. If it's no good, I drill out the ballast, reposition/resize it, and patch it up with epoxy putty. If that fixes the problem, I only have to fix up the patched area.
Posted 18 December 2008 - 08:50 PM
The seal coat is not even close to the durability of the epoxy, don't even bother. As for the ballast, the belly works great, but I sometimes place the weight near the front or "head" of the lure (crankbaits), and for topwater baits closer to the back.
Posted 18 December 2008 - 10:05 PM
Seal coat is like 1/10th as strong as epoxy, not even in the same category.
Posted 19 December 2008 - 02:51 AM
You just gotta stop the water getting into the wood.
Don't forget, the test results will be meaningless unless you fit the hooks and split rings. Even the top coat will make a difference. So, the only way to do the job properly, is to do what BobP suggests: Finish the lure, then mess about with your ballast. You will only have to do this with the first bait, when you make the same bait again, you already have the information.