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10 replies to this topic
Posted 22 December 2008 - 02:02 PM
I just started playing with hardbaits. I have a question about adding foil to a bait, do you clear to lure with 2ton and then paint it. I tried to paint first and the foil started to lift.
Posted 22 December 2008 - 05:20 PM
Yes, you should have some type of barrier to prevent the solvent from compromising the adhesive used to afix the foil.
Posted 22 December 2008 - 11:01 PM
I really like using e-tex in this situation since it is much thinner coat then Devcon but provides a nice coating over foil. I've tried propionate pellet mixture but I can't get the finish to be crystal clear for some reason (so I use this as a wood sealer now). I normally follow up w/ D2T after painting to get the thicker coat (and to add some weight). D2T seems to have no adverse affects when put over e-tex. hope this helps
Posted 23 December 2008 - 12:05 AM
It would help to have more details; what did you use to adhere the foil? And what paint do you use? If I have foil that's not sticking well, I want to fix it before paint and clearcoat because the entire finish can separate from the lure later and come off in sheets. That's especially true on wood lures that expand and contract due to temp changes. Your pic suggests it's a plastic popper. Epoxy can hide/cover/correct a lot of faults but it has its limits.
Posted 23 December 2008 - 01:47 AM
In my experience only self adhesive foil will cause you problems because the glue which is applied to it is not solvent resistant. If you use plain foil and contact glue you will be able to put a coat of solvent thinned epoxy clearcoat on top of it without fear about the foil lifting. I sometimes use propionate solution on top of the foil, but propionate does not adhere very well to metal. In my case the propionate adheres to the thin paper which is glued onto the foil, and this is a very strong bond.
Posted 23 December 2008 - 05:27 AM
A-mac, if you go to Palmettos classified, he covers the top coat clarity issue.
I could have PM'd this, but it is good information for everyone considering prop pellets.
Posted 23 December 2008 - 03:42 PM
BobP,I found some foil at Michaels I used adhesive for gold leaf. The paint was Createx water base! I tried E-tex after the foil and so far so good!!!
Thanks guys great in put!!!
Posted 24 December 2008 - 02:22 AM
I've used aluminum HVAC tape from a local home center and the silver and gold craft tape sold for stained glass artists. Both adhere very well and I've had no problems, but I like the craft tape because it's thinner and smooths down better. IMO, the most sure fire method is to coat the foil with epoxy before painting, which improves paint adhesion and covers the margins of the tape. I use D2T since it contains no solvent that can disolve the adhesive at the margin of the tape and cause it to lift. If you can get gold leaf to adhere and look right, my hat's off to you! The few times I tried it were a mess.
Posted 24 December 2008 - 08:25 AM
Does foiling and 2 coats of 2-Ton affect the way a topwater or suspending jerkbait works in the water?
Posted 24 December 2008 - 03:33 PM
Gunnie, yes it does. On a bass size lure, finish including one coat of D2T adds .02-.03 oz to the bait. That not much and it won't affect topwaters much but on a suspending jerkbait it might. Of course, the temp of the water you're fishing also affects suspending lures. A bait that suspends in 80 degree water will float in 40 degree water because the water density has increased - so everything is relative. What you don't want is a suspending bait that sinks in cold water because it will sink even faster in warm water. Excess buoyancy can be corrected with Suspendots, heavier trebles, etc. And JMHO, a slowly sinking bait isn't always a bad idea;) BTW I don't see a need to put 2 coats of D2T on any bass bait. It's pretty thick stuff.