RCaillouet

Simple Clear Coat for Plastic Cranks?

12 posts in this topic

First, thanks eveyone for this wonderful site!

Well, I am just getting started in custom crankbaits. Right now am just planning on painting some PLASTIC prebuilt crankbait bodies from Jann's.

So far, I scuffed a few old and unusable cranks with 220 grit to start. This is followed by a couple of coats Krylon White Primer spray for a start and let dry overnight. Next is Createx Airbrush ready paints. My overall body is 9 parts Fl. Orange with 1 part Med Red for a "orange caution cone" color (wife's name for it - but accurate!) For the back, an even mix of 10 parts Forest Green and Light Brown with 1 part dark gray for an DARK watermelon color.

Now the problem! I let the crank sit overnight and attempted to use Clear Lacquer with some gold and red fine glitter as a dip and ... well disappointment was the name of the day.

I am looking for a clear coat to put over my paint so that I can fish with these crankbaits! I would like to keep it simple as I do not have aturner, and would like to use a dip method with hang dry. I am not picky though, I want to fish these! HELP!!!!!

Also, what is a good way yo get the glitter on to the crankbait? My idea of using it in the dip for an even coating didn't work (could it be the lacquer problem as well?)

Thanks for the help all!!!

Reg

Edited by RCaillouet
typos

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Read some of the recent post about heat setting the createx paints.

The other problem many people like yourself face is trying to put solvent based paints or clears over water based paints. Many times these are incompatible and cause wrinkles, bubbles or pealing.

The topcoat that you might want to look into is Dick Nite and read about airbrushing it on. Excellent adhesion, very durable and you can spray it on light or heavy.

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I also use Dick Nite but unlike PB, I dip it. There are handling and storage requirements for DN that need to be strictly followed because it's a moisture cured polyurethane that will begin to cure if exposed to moisture laden ambient air during storage or handling. Do a search on it for handling recommendations. It was designed for coating spoons and does a good job on lures painted with acrylic airbrush colors if you're careful. First, make sure the paint is dry and is free of any dust or other particles. I dip the crank in DN and hold it over newspaper to let the excess drip off. Don't drip DN back into the storage container! I let it drip until the drips slow to almost none, then put it on a turner. Just hanging the lure up to dry will work OK too. The solvent gases off within an hour or so and you can touch the surface in a few hours but it will be about a week before the moisture cure has finished. If you want to recoat, wait 24 hrs. Not a bad idea to have multiple dips but I feel one dip gives sufficient protection on bass baits. I don't recoat unless I find surface imperfections in the first coat, which I sand with 400 grit to remove and wipe lightly with denatured alcohol. When cured out, DN is tough, very glossy and has a slick surface that deters hook rash. It tends to soak into the paint and adhere to the underlying surface, which means good adhesion compared to epoxy. I prime with white acrylic airbrush paint, so don't know if there are any issues between Krylon and DN. Tip - if you want to try DN, click on the banner ad you often see at the top of this page. It will take you to a section on the DN site where you can buy at a discount - or even get a sample of Dn to try for the cost of shipping. Again, read and heed the handling and storage comments you'll find here on TU!

Edited by BobP

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Your glitter issues are easy...just mixt a little glitter with a little bit of poly-acrilic (spelling..)just brush on the glitter...your actually able to add different color glitters too different parts of the bait this way..(green glitter too high lite the back,and orange glitter for the sides and belly..etc..)the acrilic is water based and dries clear in about 20 minutes..then your ready for your top coat..Nathan

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Your glitter issues are easy...just mixt a little glitter with a little bit of poly-acrilic (spelling..)just brush on the glitter...your actually able to add different color glitters too different parts of the bait this way..(green glitter too high lite the back,and orange glitter for the sides and belly..etc..)the acrilic is water based and dries clear in about 20 minutes..then your ready for your top coat..Nathan

Too easy! ;)

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you can make a lure turner quite easily. I used a batery operated drill gun that had infinite variable speed (don't even think they make them w/out these days) and a small squeeze clamp. I mount the lure in my drill gun by clamping down on a wire loop (make sure its real tight!) and then brush on epoxy (devcon 2 ton (walmart). After completely covering the bait I put my squeeze clamp on over the trigger and adjust it to the SLOWEST speed possible. After it turns for about 10min I take a pinch of glitter and sprinkle it over the lure in the desired areas. It isn't necessary to put another clear coating on the lure because the glitter will adhere quite well, but I normally do anyways just for the added weight (since my lures are balsa). Let the lure turn for at a solid hour to ensure that your clear has hardened to the point that it won't run.

I advise that if you choose to start making several at a time to make a lure turner.

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Glitter - you can buy paint-on acrylic glitter at any hobby center in various colors and particle sizes. I squirt a little into a shot glass, thin it down with an equal amount of water and brush it on where needed. That way, you can control the amount of glitter and where it's going.

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Three coats of Rustoleum lacquer from a rattle can should do you fine. If you use createx or devcon on those lures you might find they don't run correctly. Smaller lures are sometimes really sensitive when it comes to the thickness of the clearcoat.

RM

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I bought two spray cans of glitter - one silver and one gold. I use the silver on dark lures and gold on light paint schemes. I just lightly 'dust' the bait and after it dries coat it with Devcon two ton. So far they've done well.

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I think heat setting each coat of Createx, and waiting a day after spray on glitter, will solve most of your problems. If you're using a lacquer topcoat, spray a coat of Createx clear over the glitter, and heat set it, before you spray on the lacquer.

Personally, I've used spray on rattle can clear directly over both water based paint and spray on glitter. Making sure either paint is truly dry and cured is the key.

Dick Nite's urethane seems to be the urethane of choice on this site for top coating, but it has a learning curve.

I haven't tried DN because I have had good success with decoupage epoxies like Etex and Nu Lustre (both of which require turning for at least 12 hours) for my wood and PVC lures, but it comes highly recommended by successful builders on this site.

You can try a water-cured urethane that is used for floors, like Traffic to see if it's what you need. It is a little more forgiving than Dick Nite's, and it's available in quarts. Once you see if it works for you, you can move up to DN, and deal with it's quirks.

Do a search for Dick Nite's on the forum's search feature, and read up on it.

If I hadn't found a good epoxy (Nu Lustre 55 with UV inhibiters) for my lures, my next move would have been to investigate DN.

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I was just searching for different topcoat options for plastic lures and saw you ( RiverMan) had mentioned sprayon lacquer in a couple of different posts. Just thought I'd mention that I've been top coating for over a year now with spray-on krylon, and rustoleum over createx, and have never had a problem yet. I'm was just looking for something that might be more durable, but dont want to go through the aggravation of epoxies, dipping, drying wheels, ventilation, etc. Anyone have any other thoughts or ideas?

By the way, this is a great site!

Thanks in advance to all!

Three coats of Rustoleum lacquer from a rattle can should do you fine. If you use createx or devcon on those lures you might find they don't run correctly. Smaller lures are sometimes really sensitive when it comes to the thickness of the clearcoat.

RM

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I think heat setting each coat of Createx, and waiting a day after spray on glitter, will solve most of your problems. If you're using a lacquer topcoat, spray a coat of Createx clear over the glitter, and heat set it, before you spray on the lacquer.

Personally, I've used spray on rattle can clear directly over both water based paint and spray on glitter. Making sure either paint is truly dry and cured is the key.

Dick Nite's urethane seems to be the urethane of choice on this site for top coating, but it has a learning curve.

I haven't tried DN because I have had good success with decoupage epoxies like Etex and Nu Lustre (both of which require turning for at least 12 hours) for my wood and PVC lures, but it comes highly recommended by successful builders on this site.

You can try a water-cured urethane that is used for floors, like Traffic to see if it's what you need. It is a little more forgiving than Dick Nite's, and it's available in quarts. Once you see if it works for you, you can move up to DN, and deal with it's quirks.

Do a search for Dick Nite's on the forum's search feature, and read up on it.

If I hadn't found a good epoxy (Nu Lustre 55 with UV inhibiters) for my lures, my next move would have been to investigate DN.

yes your right, i actually seen this before, im still working on it:?

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