A-Mac

rtv and featherlight 2 piece mold

6 posts in this topic

For those of you that pour featherlite (or similar) baits, I had a couple questions about making a 2 piece mold.

Should I pour w/ the wires (line ties and hinge wires) in or is it worth the hassel?

On a detailed lure should I brush on the rtv first and then pour over? A buddy of mine mentioned he had heard of this to help prevent air bubbles.

Anywho, I figured that I would be better off asking the pros. Any info on pouring this stuff is greatly appreciated:worship:

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Yes I have brushed the RTV on first to get a hard barrier around the plug to prevent the close to the surface air bubbles. It certainly helps I have found out.

Yes you can create the the two piece mold to include the thru wire system / screw eye step.

One small side note on the thru-wire pour. If you have a thinner area of the mold where the wire passes thru. You have to watch that it doesn't allow the reaction to happen and it never hardens. It actually sucks the heat out of the reaction of the two parts. You can let it stay in the mold for a longer period but it may slow you down.

Good luck

John

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appreciate the reply tigger. I decided to wait on the through-wire set-up and left small countersunk areas on the lure to mark appropriate drill locations. I did brush the smooth-on silicone first then topped it off by pouring, it looks like it should work. I figured I will give this a try first as a practice run and see how the rtv really works. Just got to sit back and watch the fireworks now :popcorn:

Husky, I remember you made a post about conserving the rtv by using 100% silicon as a filler. When you do this do you allow the primary rtv layer to cure first, then put the bits of silicone on, followed by a final layer of rtv? Or did you put the rtv down, then put the 100% on (while it was still tacky) then finish off w/ rtv before the primary layer had cured?

Thanks for the info guys!

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One hundred percent worth the trouble. If not you are losing one of the main efficiencies of molding in the first place. Thru wire and weighting should be done. I have only used 16 lb density foam and as long as the mixture is correct it is going to set. Heat results from the reaction, it does not create the reaction. Now I am sure it speeds the reaction but room temperature the reaction occurs like gang busters and the heat generated far exceeds the ability of some 16 gauge wire to work as a heat sink.

Brushing on the master is always nice but the RTV has a long enough working time that most bubbles free themselves. I paint to be on the safe side and frequently vibrate the mold box. I never have worried about filler. To me it just isn't worth the couple of bucks one might save.

Edited by Travis

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appreciate the reply tigger. I decided to wait on the through-wire set-up and left small countersunk areas on the lure to mark appropriate drill locations. I did brush the smooth-on silicone first then topped it off by pouring, it looks like it should work. I figured I will give this a try first as a practice run and see how the rtv really works. Just got to sit back and watch the fireworks now :popcorn:

Husky, I remember you made a post about conserving the rtv by using 100% silicon as a filler. When you do this do you allow the primary rtv layer to cure first, then put the bits of silicone on, followed by a final layer of rtv? Or did you put the rtv down, then put the 100% on (while it was still tacky) then finish off w/ rtv before the primary layer had cured?

Thanks for the info guys!

I let the RTV cure, then use the tube silicone with the "silicone strips". When that cures, I top off with RTV. It takes more time but you can save 50% or more RTV this way.

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first pour came out better than I expected. Its not perfect (wouldn't sell it) but it will have a happy home in my tackle box w/ all the other misfit lures:teef:. I put a scale patter in the wood that I made the mold from, and I think it was just too much detail for the wood to handle (had some chips as a result). I think I will actually pour my next lures w/ less detail, then carve into the featherlite the scales, then make a final mold. Nevertheless, I'm impressed w/ the featherlite. Its like Christmas all over again when pulling apart the silicon:)

Thanks guys for your recomendations!

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