matt duarte

Etex and hinges

11 posts in this topic

hey guys i was wondering when brushing on etex or any top coat for that matter do you guys apply it with all the swimbait segments attached or do them seperatly? im using a eye screw to eye screw type hinge, and if i etex the bait all put together is there a way to protect the hinges tso they dont get missed up from the etex? also does anyone hang dry there lures or swimbaits after applying etex? i know d2t has to be put on a wheel....

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I clear my jointed baits in sections and you must have a drying wheel with e-tex. That stuff is like water compared to devcon.

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good deal dude thanks... almost seems like it be easier to etex the swimbait all put together, but i guess ill try it seperatly.. also i read that with some top coats when doing 3 or 4 coats you have to wait for the first coat to cure before applying another? im assuming its the same with etex...to be on the safe side im guessing 24hours between each coat?

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I've tried top coating with a swimbait together, I've found it easier to do them individually. As far as time between coats, I've been putting another coat on at about 6-7 hours. The first coat will be hard enough to touch but not completely set up. I think you may get better adheassion too when it's not entirely dry. I'm relatively new to bait building so hopefully some of the more seasoned builders will chime in.

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I coat the insides of the joints with D2T while the lure is apart.

Especially in cold weather, D2T won't run or sag, if you don't put it on too thick, so you don't have to put it on a drying wheel.

Now that the garage is cold, I heat the D2T to make it thinner and easier to brush into the joints. I make sure to lap the epoxy onto the faces about 1/4", but thinly, so the face epoxy had a good overlap.

Then I hang the parts individually to set. In cold weather, I have to wait 5-6 hours before the epoxy isn't tacky any more. Otherwise, the epoxy sticks to itself and pulls off.

After the D2T had really set, I assemble the lure, put it on the drying wheel, and coat the faces. I used to use Etex, now it's Nu Lustre 55 UV inhibited.

I put on a second coat, but wait 24 hours in the winter.

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So what method/epoxy would you suggest using for a swimbait you can't pull apart? Like a bbz shad or triple trout. Just thinking about spreading 2-ton on a $70 TT scares me.....

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I have no experience repainting a BBZ, but someone on this forum has done it.

The thread is on page three of the hardbait forum.

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Clear coating swimbaits is the one part I dislike in the whole building process. It's important to keep epoxy from building up on certain areas so i won't impede the action but you want it thick enough over the rest of the bait to protect it.

I've got to build a new drying wheel soon to accommodate all the small body sections. I like the idea someone else posted using strong velcro to attach the handles of the exacto knives to the wheel. I might have to try that.

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good deal guys thanks for all the replys! i guess ill do them seperatly so i dont gunk up all the eye screws... i like how the bbz and TT are hinged together but every time ive tried it that way it broke apart on the stress test... the hinge pin always pulls out

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How would that work..the velcro with the exacto? Sound promising.....

:huh:

Edited by Jeep

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This person use velcro on the handles of the exacto knives and also on the wooden lure wheel. It made it easier to remove the lures while clear coating. The clamping mechanism of the exacto knife is used to grasp the eye screw to hold the baits.

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