A-Mac

foiling round baits?

16 posts in this topic

I've attached a couple pics a prototype shad bait I'm working on. In the pics, you can see the bait has flat sides except for the distended belly. I've done several hundred foil jobs on this style lure without the belly (lure was flat sided) with great success; however, I think I've just thrown myself a curveball:?. I typically roll a rachet handle over the lure for scale effects after I've applied the foil. Any ideas on how I should tackle this one and still keep a nice clean finish? Also, if tests work out for this one, I'd like to make this one out of featherlite. Has anyone tried foiling featherlite (with imprinted scale patterns)? I tried hunting around with the search but didn't find what I was looking for. Any info is appreciated :worship:

http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj100/amcalexa/IMG00089.jpg

http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj100/amcalexa/IMG00090.jpg

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No sorry Mac, but I will be interesting to watch how it turns out. Good luck with it.pete

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You could wrap the lure with mesh and once its tight around the bait and positioned correctly. Take some pop or dry wall compound and coat the mesh entirely. Once dry sand it evenly down do the mesh and remove the mesh. You will then have raised scales. You might have to experiment with different mesh to find one that releases easily from the drywall compound or soak the mesh in floor was before applying. When you paint the lure you can shoot your basecoat white then rub black in the cracks and the scales will show very distinctive

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I use a mesh from garlic(the garlic comes in this mesh) first stick the mesh on the foil and after that put a littel drop of glue un the lure's body....spread it all over the body, after that, just put the foil un the lure

I will try to put a photo up here or a link at least:wink:

Found it, this is the first foil that i put on a bait, this happend 2 years ago

ABCD0008.jpg

Edited by HellRAISER

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The foil will enter bettwin de mesh, here you get the advantage, it it will not apper those ugly places where the foil overlaps

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I'd try foiling the sides down to the belly bulge, then use a different piece of foil for the bulge area. Using the thinnest foil available would be a big help to keep any foil folds to a minimum. Don't know how you foil now. If it's HVAC tape or other thick stuff, you can try Venture aluminum craft tape, which is much thinner. And of course, there would be no problem foiling it with real silver leaf if you are so inclined (I'm not - can't do foil leafing to save my life!).

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All interesting posts, most of which I would have never even considered. The mesh under the foil thing is neat! Guess thats why this site has the best of the best when it comes to this stuff.

I'm currently using candy wrapper foil, so its very thin but also very fragile. Since the first one I posted is balsa, I think I'm going w/ BobP's method first. I'm going to cover the belly with foil and let it overlap onto the rest of the bait, then glue a piece of foil trimmed for the area outside of the belly. Once the bait is covered, I'm goin to use my taiwanese ratchet tool to roll my scales on... very carefully.

However, if this bait does work and I feel it necessary to make one out of featherlite, I have an idea. In case you haven't noticed, I'm a bit attached to my cheap ratchet, its been around a long, long time and rolled several hundred baits. My game plan for a plastic bait is as follows:

I'm going to apply a few coats of spray adhesive to the bait and let it dry. Spray adhesive tends to foam up a little bit and never hardens. I use it currently to apply foil to flat balsa and it works like a charm. Once I've got a few layers of spray adhesive built up, the spray glue should form a softer surface, which I'm hopeing will be as forgiving as balsa. Then I will apply the foil like BobP mentioned and roll as if it were a wooden bait. We shall see, got to get the wood one down first. Thanks everyone for your input! I'll post pics asap.

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In Looking at your Crankbait , I am inclined to agree with BobP .. I foil a good many baits and I would try one piece cut down to the swelled area , seperate piece for the swelled area and another on the bottom .. Blending them together with your scaling tool.. Also you could cut with your tools a deeper grove around the swelled where it meets the body of the crankbait and hide the seams there .. Just a thought ... Most wrinkles you can rub out with a solid tool and then press your scale in and never know where the seams are except if you use heavy type foil.. I like Venture as Bob P mentioned , a lot thinner and peel and stick .. Big Craft Stores usually carry it ... Give it a try and let us know if you find a better one (or I should say , "one easier to work with") . .Good Luck :)

Boone

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lure looks like a fancy disco ball!:yeah:

It was quite tedious, but it wasn't impossible. Nothing different then normal foiling, just takes a little bit longer. So, goal one accomplished. Next, I have to see if it works in water... then, what I believe will be the hard part (if this lure even makes it to this step)... foiling featherlite. Thanks again everyone!

http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj100/amcalexa/IMG00091.jpg

http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj100/amcalexa/IMG00092.jpg

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Yeah, I almost forgot about the weight difference since I pretty much just glued two wood pieces to the sides. Before foiling, I drill small holes into the bottom and inserted some small #7 lead shot. So weight wise, I took a guess and put in about have again more weight than my normal baits to hopefully counter the baits new distended air bladder. Fingers crossed. I'm mainly interested to see what type of action it will produce, since about half the surface area is still almost completely flat.

I'm working a takemefishing casting booth this weekend in Louisville, Ky and they have a lunker trailer... so I might just have to play a little bit once the crowds leave ;)

Thanks for the input.

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Good job!

You can try your extra glue layer system on a piece of flat plastic, like a formica table top, to see if it works before you move to featherlite.

Or you could take that beautiful lure you just foiled and use it for your master when you make your mold.

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Yeah, that might not be a bad idea Mark. I just tested the lure ( I put a real light layer of d2t on it yesterday), and it swims quite nicely. However, it floats pretty high. I think I may drill another couple holes and add a little bit more weight. My guess is, I should have put double the weight instead of 1.5 times what my other lures are. Since this lure is only about 2.25" long, d2t tends to really add weight to my lures. 3 thin coats is about equivalent to the weight that I put in my normal flat sided cranks. But hey, no problems... I think this is the first time that I ever had a new lure work perfect on its first trial! For once, this lure isn't headed to the "tacklebox of misfit lures!"

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Well done Mac, just looking at your pic with all that buoyancy at the bottom of the balsa blank, I thought ballasting was going to be a near impossible !! It just proves you never know if we don't try- can't wait to see the finished product. pete

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I had my doubts too Pete. I imagined roll problems with all that low buoyancy. But it works.

The bait looks great, congrats.

Dave

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