Edited by SHOWMEBASSIN, 23 January 2009 - 10:54 PM.
Chrome airbrush paint
12 replies to this topic
Posted 23 January 2009 - 10:50 PM
Does anyone know where I can find chrome airbrush paint.
Posted 24 January 2009 - 12:12 AM
Not any that looks like real chrome. I think most guys go with foil as a substitute. I like it better than chrome paint anyway.
Posted 24 January 2009 - 07:57 AM
Spaz stix makes one.......haven't seen it in person but in pictures it looks very good. It's expensive though.
Posted 24 January 2009 - 10:44 AM
I know of at least two. They are absolutely stunning until you put any kind of clear over them, then they look like ordinary silver.
Finding a true chrome for bait building is quite a quest.
Posted 24 January 2009 - 03:27 PM
I have had this one in my 'favourites' for a while which sounds interesting, in that they recommend their 'top coating', maybe you can epoxy over that.
I also note the any chrome lures you see, 'Flatfish' etc, don't seem to have any thick top coat and usually scratch pretty easily, which tells me, that if there was a chrome available that could be toughened with a top coat, the big manufacturers would be using it (i.e. a tougher top coat). pete
Chrome Clear Paint Kits :: Chrome Paints :: Paint Products :: Kustom Rides
Posted 24 January 2009 - 04:43 PM
A durable chrome finish is impossible to find. All "chrome" paint finishes are made with what's called leafing aluminum pigment. It's small flakes of aluminum coated with stearic acid to make them "leaf" and orient side by side to give the appearance of a continuous film. The problem is that the flakes are completely coated with stearic acid that acts as a lubricant. If you've ever ran your nail across one of those finishes, you'll notice a waxy substance on top. That's the stearic acid. If apply a clear on top, almost any one will eat the stearic acid off and then the flake edges start to pull apart, giving you a dull grey color. There are a few clear systems that will cover the leafing aluminum without disrupting the acid, but then the clear is just resting on the surface of the waxy acid, and you really don't have any adhesion. Slightest blemish in the clear and it will all delaminate in no time. You're best off with foil or I use Autoair coarse aluminum base as a descent chrome reproduction.
Posted 24 January 2009 - 07:02 PM
the chrome seen on lures is done by a vacuum plating process.
Posted 25 January 2009 - 05:30 PM
:oooh:ok i use silver or chrome glitter its some work but if you do it right its better than foil on shine i have 20 lures + that i have made over 2years that i am going to post next mo/ P.S try great looking glitter the best you can find good luck:?
Posted 26 January 2009 - 08:12 AM
I have some of the stix chrome and have used it. Works pretty good until you spray a color over it and then add the clear. It really dules down after that.
Posted 26 January 2009 - 08:45 AM
I have used FASKOLOR Chrome (made by Parma) which I bought at HobbyTown. It is a paint sold for use on model cars and is labeled as "Paint for Lexan Model Car Bodies & Other Surfaces".
It is basically a flake/pearl paint but it is about the shiniest silver I have found. You can do some interesting things with it and it can add a nice touch for a citrus shad look as the base color or if you use it as an overspray to add a touch of a flake look.
It can be clear coated easily but as others have stated it does loose some of the 'Plaster of Paris' once clear coated with epoxies. I wish I knew what it looked like with an automotive clear. But it is not smooth Chrome like you might want. It is basically the brightest silver pearl I have used. Make sure you use a large tip as the flake/pigment is a bit large.
Posted 26 January 2009 - 04:05 PM
I used ultra fine silver glitter to base coat these and air brushed over them. I was looking for the same thing or similar to chrome paint.