RiverMan

Some Dick Nite Questions

33 posts in this topic

For those using Dick Nite, can you tell me how much trouble it is to make sure the product isn't exposed to air?

What if you buy the DN in small containers or if you store it in several small containers?

How long do you have wait before applying the second coat?

thx.

Jed

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Jed

Very air sensitive ... When I get a can I open and place all the contents into little vials with plastic lids..I then tape the lids off around the vials.. I paint Dick's on with a brush so I only expose one vial at a time while working on baits ... Otherwise , if you worked out of your can ect , you are taking risks messing up the whole can .. As far as light sensitive .. My vials are clear and I havent noticed any problems yellowing etc .. Just my two :twocents:.. There are many ..many others on TU that do things differently and their method works for them ... Hopefully you will get a good response and a lot of differnt storage methods to fit your application

Good Luck - Good Stuff

Boone

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Thanks Boone............how does it hold up to say hook rash and minor bangs and bonks? I would probably apply 2 or 3 coats with a brush.

Jed

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Don't want another thread so I'll ask it here if it's OK.

How does heat effect DN? Does it help it cure or not?

I've looked through every thread in the search engine, but can not find the specific answer.

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For those using Dick Nite, can you tell me how much trouble it is to make sure the product isn't exposed to air?

It is sensitive but not radically sensitive.I dip my lures into it and as long as you put the lid back on without wasteing time and donot let your lure drip back into the container you will be fine

What if you buy the DN in small containers or if you store it in several small containers?

I buy mine in quarts and seperate it into pints. Pints are big enough to fit a lure in and lessen the risk of loseing to much at a time.

How long do you have wait before applying the second coat?

When i dip the first coat is usaully pretty thick, thicker than a brush on, but when neccesary i wait until the lure is dry to the touch befor I dip again.

how does it hold up to say hook rash and minor bangs and bonks?

Over time everything breaks down from hook rash and abuse. If you are very worried about messing up a paintjob I would suggest as many coats as possible with out interfering with the lures action.

How does heat effect DN? Does it help it cure or not?

No heat doesnt help cure, in fact it could make the drying time longer. Dick nites is moisture cured which means it drys by the moisture in the air, not the air itself or heat. I tested one time by waiting about 2-3 hours after lure was dipped (dry to touch) and ran it under cold water. It seemed to help dry it faster but i dont know if that would cause any long term problems.

Best of luck :yay:

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Thanks for the quick answer.

Have you tried Bloxygen?

I want to use some DN, but refuse to continue wasting it because of air. I've tried unsucccessfully to buy some from the company, but want to continue to try to find some. I've seen everyone's work arounds, but they aer not satisfactor for me.

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Thank you for the responses......

Bamabass..........some have suggested waiting 24 hours before a recoat........are you waiting this long?

jed

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Just a thought. Has anyone considered vacuum for protection against curing in the can?

It would mean attaching some kind of valve to the lid. After use, simply attach the hose to the lid valve, switch on the vacuum, close the valve, job done.

Another idea, a small bag of moisture absorbant crystals attached to the inside of the lid.

Dave

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@Riverman

I rarely dip more than one coat.I believe I have done 2 coats on less than 5 baits and I dont think i waited a full 24 hours. I had no problems but im sure waiting out the 24 hours couldnt hurt.JMHO and im sure others have had more experience with 2 coats and could chime in.

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I've tried to contact Dick Nite for at least 3 or 4 days now, and still no response. Has anyone else had trouble getting a reply from them? I emailed them through the "TU email address".

Also, I've heard some people just dip the baits and hang them, while others dip then put them on a drying wheel. Is one better than the other?

Thank you.

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I remember reading about this trick for preserving Dick Nite's on here at one time...Put a small screw in the can as closely to the top of the can as possible. Take the screw out when you want some DNs and pour it into a separate container. Only enough for the amount of baits you plan on coating (I brush, not dip). Put the screw back into the can, and the DNs residue will seal the screw to the can, and very little or no air will get in the can. You don't have to remove the lid at all. I wish I could remember who posted this tip. I have use it and haven't had any problems with my DNs setting up in the can.

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There are two hardening processes at work with DN. First is the solvent evaporating. Depends on temp but you can touch DN in a few hours and handle it in 5-6 hours. Heat will speed up drying but what the heck, we aren't talking about a long time anyway. I can run my fingers lightly down the sides of a DN lure and feel how the drying is going by the difference in drag, just like with epoxy. It gets fairly slick in 24 hrs. Very slick in a couple of days. On recoating, you pays your money and takes your chances. I wait 24 hrs and never have a problem. I tried waiting 2 hours, then 8 hours, and got bubbles/wrinkling. Clearcoats benefit from a little patience.

When the DN has completely dried, it's about as hard and tough as you'd expect a standard polyurethane to be. But the REAL deal with DN is it's gonna get tougher as the moisture cure part of the process continues. That takes days, perhaps weeks, maybe even months to be 100% complete. How soon you throw it in the lake or pack to ship is up to you. I try not to abuse the bait for a week after coating.

Storage strategy depends on how fast you use DN and how you apply it. I dip and am a hobby builder so that's the worst case scenario. I use it slowly and need to keep it in a container big enough to dip from. I decant a quart into 2 tall 16 oz jars with GOOD air tight lids. I shoot Bloxygen into the jar just before I seal it, wrap foil around the top and secure it with a rubber band. So far, so good. I lost 2 partial quarts to premature cure after about 6 months of use, then decided to take extreme measures. Live and learn. Best case scenario is if you use DN fairly rapidly and you spray or brush it. Then you can decant a can of DN into smaller jars and seal them securely, opening them in progression as you it up. No Problemo! Bottom line - It doesn't matter what you store it in as long as there is very little moisture laden air in the container. But remember, as you use the DN and the level in the container goes down, the void will be filled with SOMETHING.

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I've tried to contact Dick Nite for at least 3 or 4 days now, and still no response. Has anyone else had trouble getting a reply from them? I emailed them through the "TU email address".

Also, I've heard some people just dip the baits and hang them, while others dip then put them on a drying wheel. Is one better than the other?

Thank you.

Have you tried calling him? I think the business keeps him pretty busy. Even when I spoke with him on the phone it took a little time to get the invoice sent. When I did talk to him, he was very helpful and answered all the questions I had.

I spray mine, and end up with about 5-6 coats, sometimes more when I'm done. With spraying it, the solvent flashes off so fast and it becomes tacky in seconds. The 5-6 coats is for bass lures, more coats are for lures I'm going to be fishing the salt with.......Bluefish can destroy stuff about as well as a teething puppy. A light coat is ready to be recoated in about a minute, a heavier one in 2-3. I originally thinned 3 parts DN to 1 part acetone and was happy with it. I recently started thinning it more and I'm much happier with it. It seems to give me nice flat finished more consistantly now. Drawback is you need a couple extra coats.

Vacuuming the can sounds like an interesting idea. Might try it on a small batch to see how it reacts to it. I'm wondering if that would cause some of the solvent to evaporate each time though.

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I've tried to contact Dick Nite for at least 3 or 4 days now, and still no response. Has anyone else had trouble getting a reply from them? I emailed them through the "TU email address".

Also, I've heard some people just dip the baits and hang them, while others dip then put them on a drying wheel. Is one better than the other?

Last time I contacted Dick Nites they took a while to get back to me aswell. Im guessing they are busy but will get back to you?

I dip and then let it just drip. I have no problems at all with this and see no need for a lure turner.

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No I haven't tried calling yet. I'll wait a couple more days then give him a call. I know how swamped certain companies can get.

Thanks

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The item will minimise, but not eliminate the problem. As you pour DN, the volume of fluid poured is replaced by air.

Having said that, it has to be better than taking the lid off the can and dipping direct.

Apart from bloxygen, the best method I have read, was the bottom tap, with a top vent plug. This allows a minimum amount of air into the can (as above). But accepts that a skin will form. This skin prevents further contamination.

Dave

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Hanging to dry - I was thinking about that! No real reason to turn them since it's quite thin and all the excess drips off. Just like on a spoon.

Wine bottles - I hear that's the way Dick Nite stores his poly.

The can spout - space in the can has to be taken up by air for the DN to flow out the bottom doesn't it? When DN starts to cure in the can, you get an increasingly thick hard skin and the cure will not stop. You'd know it happened because venting the can's top would not help you get any more DN out. So it doesn't look like a solution to me. If the DN was contained in a collapsable membrane inside the can, that would work. But what membranes can survive DN's solvent?

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I had mentioned using some disposable paint gun cup liners which are designed to hold urethanes.

Dick nite never came back with any results for or against using a liner. If the plastic would hold up, you could clip the corner and dispense the desired amount and tie it off. The product could be stored in a bag with no air in it.

Edited by KcDano

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He took nearly three months to get back to me. He did e-mail me back and finally sent a sample. I am not sure what the deal is with that. I ended up ordering a small can of Pelucid which is the same thing, afaik POR-15 Outlet - POR15*::*Search results

When the weather warms up, I plan on starting to use this stuff. I do plan on getting some from DN too if he decides to answer e-mails or phone.

Edited by jameso321

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RM - I have never used DN, they would not send it over here, but I have used 'Plucid', and from what I have read on here it is the same stuff. I coated about 10 lures with it and dispite decanting it etc ,lost the rest - although it also is an excellent coating, I can't justify $50 for 10 x 3" lures.

I too have been waiting in anticipation (see KC reply ) for DN's supposed new packaging, after he read it here about ten months ago, actually it was just after the TU meet in May last year, we bought it up after seeing some bags at Daves ' Hook Solutions'- it's a shame a can of lure coat (and Plucid) goes off so quick, but he is so slow.pete

Edited by hazmail

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First of, Hello All...

Been a bit since I have last vistited you guys... Nice to see some familiar "faces" still here!

Am very interested in hearing more about DN and Pelucid products, I know I could do a search of archives, but I'd like to hear everyones latest wisdoms...

Is this NOW the go to top/clearcoat to use?

What is the consistancy of the stuff out of the can? Will fine holographic glitters and micas suspend in this coating when mixed and brushed on, then turned on drying rack? Is there less problems with micro bubles as compared to two part mixes? Is DN product "self leveling" as two part epoxies are? How does coating hold up over time when exposed to high heat of direct sunlight baking lures in storage boxes on deck of boats? Is this easier stuff to work with in less heated, higher humidity climates of Winter workplaces? How about odor / toxicity in workplace while curing?

Finally, how does the price per unit to coat the average sized bait compare to using other 2 part type epoxies?

I didnt see much on the DN product, but found this on the Pelucid stuff...

PELUCID

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