RiverMan

Some Dick Nite Questions

33 posts in this topic

It does self level, but with the thin coats we're putting on lures, only very briefly.

As far as the consistency, can't think of anything really to compare it to, but I think it would spray unthinned through a touch up gun, but it's just a little too thick for an airbrush. I think glitters would suspend in it just fine, as long as it's a glitter that urethane won't dissolve.

For me, I love the stuff. The two problems are with storage and that it takes so long to cure. But once it's cured it's very very hard. I don't really have storage problems. The most I lose is maybe an ounce at a time. The only time I lose it is in the airbrush bottle after it's mixed for wpraying. It's weird though, I didn't have a problem with it before, this problem only started recently. But the last two pint cans were as liquid as when I bought it when I finished them. And the current one has about an inch in it and it's still good as new. And I'm really not all that careful with it, other than that I don't pour it, and I close it back up immediately.

I've been thinking about it after this thread came up, and I think the key to keeping it is not so much minimizing air contact, but more so minimizing contact with NEW air.

If you want more info.......do a google search on "moisture cure urethane" won't get pelucid or DN right away, but there's plenty of info on it.

Edited by clamboni

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This is so frustrating! I can't believe there isn't a simple top coat solution. I have been using Dick Nites for a month and really like it, but my jar just went bad on me last week. I tried to email him to order more but haven't heard back yet. There really should be a better solution! :mad:

My dad's liquid medication comes in these little plastic tubes that you snap the top off, squirt the liquid out, and then throw them away. I would LOVE to be able to purchase Dick Nite's in containers like that.

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Edited by LooksLikeSinbad

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There are simple ones.

Devcon 2-Ton 30 minute epoxy

and

Envirotex Lite epoxy (etex)

of the two, I guess the Devcon would be the most simple altough I use etex for its longer working time and few other reasons

-=-=-

Neither requires a spinner when you use thin coat.

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Epoxies are fine when you need a thick coat but I too find it odd that by now we don't have an easy to apply and very tough thin clearcoat.

jed

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here are my :twocents:

for "smal" baits, i use something similar to DN, a 1k moisture cure PU clearcoat, used for industrial floor coating.

i use an old/cheap airbrush, 0.3 needle to spray it. after 30-45 minutes at 70% humidity the second coat can be applied. (small camber with humidiefier). no dryingwheel needed.

i clean the airbrush instantly after using!

the PU coat is "rock hard" compared to D2T! the coat can be applied over epoxy. (comes in handy when foling, to level the surface of a bait)

storing:

i never open the can! i fill the bottle top with rtv and let i cure. use a canula (syringe needle) stung trough the rtv "seal" to get some coat out. u have to squeeze the can, cause no air gets in the can to replace the coat, so u will suck a vacuum.

i have the actual can for 5 month in use, and no sign of any reaction in the can!

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Herman, here's a stab at answering your specific questions.Is this NOW the go to top/clearcoat to use?

I wouldn't call any topcoat "The Go To". It's an option. DN is different from D2T. It makes a thin coating. It has more gloss. It has a slicker surface. It adheres very well. I'm confident it is tougher after it moisture cures, based on removing DN and D2T from baits for repaints.

What is the consistancy of the stuff out of the can? Will fine holographic glitters and micas suspend in this coating when mixed and brushed on, then turned on drying rack? Cut with 1/4 solvent, it can be airbrushed, so it is already very thin right out of the can. The finished coating resembles most factory lure coatings (DN actually IS a factory coating!).I haven't tried glitter but think it probably melts plastic glitters.

Is there less problems with micro bubles as compared to two part mixes? I dip in DN and have no bubbles. If the painted surface is smooth, the DN finish looks like clear glass. Is DN product "self leveling" as two part epoxies are? Yes, it levels fine but remember the coating is thin. If you want to hide surface imperfections, D2T works better with one coat. How does coating hold up over time when exposed to high heat of direct sunlight baking lures in storage boxes on deck of boats? It's formulated for coating fishing spoons. I've notice NO yellowing after one year. I can't say the same for D2T. Is this easier stuff to work with in less heated, higher humidity climates of Winter workplaces? Aren't all finishes affected by cold? They're all formulated to work at room temp. DN is the same. I've coated lures in a 45 degree garage in high humidity and it worked fine, but slower. How about odor / toxicity in workplace while curing? DN is solvent based and noticably off gasses solvent for the first hour or so. After that the fumes and smell are much reduced. Is it toxic? All solvent based coating are.

Finally, how does the price per unit to coat the average sized bait compare to using other 2 part type epoxies? A quart of DN is 946 ML, equivalent to 31.5 double syringes of D2T. The DN will cost about $50 delivered. The D2T will cost $60+ plus tax at Walmart. How much of each topcoat you average per bait depends on too many factors to measure but I don't think the cost difference is very significant either way.

Bottom line for me, DN is good stuff with some advantages over D2T and some disadvantages. I use both. It's not a contest, just making choices to try and get the best finish I can in specific environmental conditions, on specific baits.

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