Some Dick Nite Questions
, Jan 25 2009 12:20 AM
32 replies to this topic
Posted 25 January 2009 - 11:02 PM
I had mentioned using some disposable paint gun cup liners which are designed to hold urethanes.
Dick nite never came back with any results for or against using a liner. If the plastic would hold up, you could clip the corner and dispense the desired amount and tie it off. The product could be stored in a bag with no air in it.
Edited by KcDano, 25 January 2009 - 11:48 PM.
Posted 25 January 2009 - 11:22 PM
He took nearly three months to get back to me. He did e-mail me back and finally sent a sample. I am not sure what the deal is with that. I ended up ordering a small can of Pelucid which is the same thing, afaik POR-15 Outlet - POR15*::*Search results
When the weather warms up, I plan on starting to use this stuff. I do plan on getting some from DN
too if he decides to answer e-mails or phone.
Edited by jameso321, 25 January 2009 - 11:24 PM.
Posted 26 January 2009 - 12:27 AM
Posted 26 January 2009 - 01:13 AM
RM - I have never used DN
, they would not send it over here, but I have used 'Plucid', and from what I have read on here it is the same stuff. I coated about 10 lures with it and dispite decanting it etc ,lost the rest - although it also is an excellent coating, I can't justify $50 for 10 x 3" lures.
I too have been waiting in anticipation (see KC reply ) for DN
's supposed new packaging, after he read it here about ten months ago, actually it was just after the TU
meet in May last year, we bought it up after seeing some bags at Daves ' Hook Solutions'- it's a shame a can of lure coat (and Plucid) goes off so quick, but he is so slow.pete
Edited by hazmail, 26 January 2009 - 01:24 AM.
Posted 26 January 2009 - 02:49 AM
First of, Hello All...
Been a bit since I have last vistited you guys... Nice to see some familiar "faces" still here!
Am very interested in hearing more about DN
and Pelucid products, I know I could do a search of archives, but I'd like to hear everyones latest wisdoms...
Is this NOW the go to top/clearcoat to use?
What is the consistancy of the stuff out of the can? Will fine holographic glitters and micas suspend in this coating when mixed and brushed on, then turned on drying rack? Is there less problems with micro bubles as compared to two part mixes? Is DN
product "self leveling" as two part epoxies are? How does coating hold up over time when exposed to high heat of direct sunlight baking lures in storage boxes on deck of boats? Is this easier stuff to work with in less heated, higher humidity climates of Winter workplaces? How about odor / toxicity in workplace while curing?
Finally, how does the price per unit to coat the average sized bait compare to using other 2 part type epoxies?
I didnt see much on the DN
product, but found this on the Pelucid stuff... PELUCID™ is one of the most advanced single component clear coats in the world. It's super clear, super glossy, and unbelievably tough! Spray or brush this non-yellowing single-component clear coat over painted or unpainted fiberglass, wood, and other interior surfaces that need a clear lustrous finish. The tough, yet flexible, coating dries clear as water, with a rock-hard finish that won't crack, chip, or peel. It's self leveling, which means it won't leave harsh brush marks. It can be recoated in 2 to 3 hours, depending on humidity, and will withstand temperatures up to 400 F. Two coats should always be applied, to achieve maximum beauty and protection. PELUCID™ has excellent adhesion qualities, and is highly chemical resistant.
All thoughts and replies much appreciated!
Posted 26 January 2009 - 03:37 AM
It does self level, but with the thin coats we're putting on lures, only very briefly.
As far as the consistency, can't think of anything really to compare it to, but I think it would spray unthinned through a touch up gun, but it's just a little too thick for an airbrush. I think glitters would suspend in it just fine, as long as it's a glitter that urethane won't dissolve.
For me, I love the stuff. The two problems are with storage and that it takes so long to cure. But once it's cured it's very very hard. I don't really have storage problems. The most I lose is maybe an ounce at a time. The only time I lose it is in the airbrush bottle after it's mixed for wpraying. It's weird though, I didn't have a problem with it before, this problem only started recently. But the last two pint cans were as liquid as when I bought it when I finished them. And the current one has about an inch in it and it's still good as new. And I'm really not all that careful with it, other than that I don't pour it, and I close it back up immediately.
I've been thinking about it after this thread came up, and I think the key to keeping it is not so much minimizing air contact, but more so minimizing contact with NEW air.
If you want more info.......do a google search on "moisture cure urethane" won't get pelucid or DN
right away, but there's plenty of info on it.
Edited by clamboni, 26 January 2009 - 03:39 AM.
Posted 26 January 2009 - 11:39 AM
This is so frustrating! I can't believe there isn't a simple
top coat solution. I have been using Dick Nites for a month and really like it, but my jar just went bad on me last week. I tried to email him to order more but haven't heard back yet. There really should be a better solution!
My dad's liquid medication comes in these little plastic tubes that you snap the top off, squirt the liquid out, and then throw them away. I would LOVE to be able to purchase Dick Nite's in containers like that.
Edited by LooksLikeSinbad, 26 January 2009 - 11:44 AM.
Posted 26 January 2009 - 06:11 PM
There are simple ones.
Devcon 2-Ton 30 minute epoxy
Envirotex Lite epoxy (etex)
of the two, I guess the Devcon would be the most simple altough I use etex for its longer working time and few other reasons
Neither requires a spinner when you use thin coat.
Posted 27 January 2009 - 02:21 AM
Epoxies are fine when you need a thick coat but I too find it odd that by now we don't have an easy to apply and very tough thin clearcoat.
Posted 27 January 2009 - 03:07 AM
1" Sponge brush + epoxy = thin
Posted 27 January 2009 - 04:28 AM
here are my
for "smal" baits, i use something similar to DN
, a 1k moisture cure PU clearcoat, used for industrial floor coating.
i use an old/cheap airbrush, 0.3 needle to spray it. after 30-45 minutes at 70% humidity the second coat can be applied. (small camber with humidiefier). no dryingwheel needed.
i clean the airbrush instantly after using!
the PU coat is "rock hard" compared to D2T
! the coat can be applied over epoxy. (comes in handy when foling, to level the surface of a bait)
i never open the can! i fill the bottle top with rtv and let i cure. use a canula (syringe needle) stung trough the rtv "seal" to get some coat out. u have to squeeze the can, cause no air gets in the can to replace the coat, so u will suck a vacuum.
i have the actual can for 5 month in use, and no sign of any reaction in the can!
Posted 27 January 2009 - 01:57 PM
Good idea Dramone.
Anyone tried this product? PERMALAC
Posted 28 January 2009 - 03:16 AM
Herman, here's a stab at answering your specific questions.Is this NOW the go to top/clearcoat to use?
I wouldn't call any topcoat "The Go To". It's an option. DN is different from D2T. It makes a thin coating. It has more gloss. It has a slicker surface. It adheres very well. I'm confident it is tougher after it moisture cures, based on removing DN and D2T from baits for repaints. What is the consistancy of the stuff out of the can? Will fine holographic glitters and micas suspend in this coating when mixed and brushed on, then turned on drying rack? Cut with 1/4 solvent, it can be airbrushed, so it is already very thin right out of the can. The finished coating resembles most factory lure coatings (DN actually IS a factory coating!).I haven't tried glitter but think it probably melts plastic glitters. Is there less problems with micro bubles as compared to two part mixes? I dip in DN and have no bubbles. If the painted surface is smooth, the DN finish looks like clear glass. Is DN product "self leveling" as two part epoxies are? Yes, it levels fine but remember the coating is thin. If you want to hide surface imperfections, D2T works better with one coat. How does coating hold up over time when exposed to high heat of direct sunlight baking lures in storage boxes on deck of boats? It's formulated for coating fishing spoons. I've notice NO yellowing after one year. I can't say the same for D2T. Is this easier stuff to work with in less heated, higher humidity climates of Winter workplaces? Aren't all finishes affected by cold? They're all formulated to work at room temp. DN is the same. I've coated lures in a 45 degree garage in high humidity and it worked fine, but slower. How about odor / toxicity in workplace while curing? DN is solvent based and noticably off gasses solvent for the first hour or so. After that the fumes and smell are much reduced. Is it toxic? All solvent based coating are.
Finally, how does the price per unit to coat the average sized bait compare to using other 2 part type epoxies? A quart of DN is 946 ML, equivalent to 31.5 double syringes of D2T. The DN will cost about $50 delivered. The D2T will cost $60+ plus tax at Walmart. How much of each topcoat you average per bait depends on too many factors to measure but I don't think the cost difference is very significant either way.Bottom line for me, DN is good stuff with some advantages over D2T and some disadvantages. I use both
. It's not a contest, just making choices to try and get the best finish I can in specific environmental conditions, on specific baits.