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Another DickNite question/problem
43 replies to this topic
Posted 06 February 2009 - 04:32 PM
Dean, Dean, Dean. I tried to be nice. Not anymore. I think the only mean spiritedness comes from you. You just can't take any statements contrary at all, can you? You get this condescending attitude every time. None of us know all about this, not me, not even you! I don't give a rats rear what you think a cure is. A full cure is when the coating reaches the properties it was formulated to reach, nothing else, no matter what. What you are experiencing is probably an adequate cure for what we do, like I noted in my first post! I will remain ademant till the end that YOUR baits are not fully cured as the formulator intended the coating to be with that process. I can't speak for the heat gun guys, but the top temp I got with my 1500W dryer in a sealed box, was 175F and at that temp, most plastics will warp, besides Lexan. At 1100F the lure would catch fire!
One thing to remember also is that DN has pretty weak solvents in it. Try your process with a lacquer and the results may not be pretty. You can spray the harshest, nastiest solvent based clear on Auto Air, and it won't wrinkle after it's been cured at 125F. That's all I tried to point out in the beginning, before you got your attitude, is that at 125F I KNOW FOR SURE my baits are fully cured. You're just guessing!
Posted 06 February 2009 - 06:32 PM
This forum is for sharing information, and making friends, not arguing.
A difference of opinion is fine. Taking it personal is not.
When I'm thinking about saying something that maybe I shouldn't, I ask myself whether it's something I would want my kids or grand kids to read.
A little common courtesy goes a long way.
Along with a thick skin, and healthy dose of humility.
"Can't we all just get along?"
Edited by mark poulson, 06 February 2009 - 06:34 PM.
Posted 06 February 2009 - 08:22 PM
I borrowed an iron, did the cure/wash test, and I rest my case. Partially cured, not fully cured. I blasted the 175F side directly with a 1500W hairdryer for at least 10 minutes. Popped the breaker twice! Unless you're popping the breaker, your lures aren't even getting that hot.
Edited by Downriver Tackle, 06 February 2009 - 08:45 PM.
Posted 07 February 2009 - 11:14 AM
Are you sure you are reading my posts??? Here it is again so you don't have to go back a page.
Please continue to rip on people who totally undervalue their own work. That is a excellent mission to embrace.
But your last statement, while it sounds as though you're being conciliatory, is actually just a way of saying that I can't grasp what a complete cure is. Either the crosslinking is complete or it isn't. If it isn't, then it is not fully cured.
I can come up with no evidence whatsoever that the paint on my lures isn't fully cured. I don't understand how you can so adamantly insist that the paint on a lure you've never seen is not fully cured. If you simply held one, that would probably do it; but then took it to the sink and tried to remove the paint, I doubt it would take you but a few seconds to agree that it is fully cured, that no more crosslinking could take place in that (nicely applied:lol:) Createx on that bait!
I can only surmise that you don't realize the extent to which we (I & people I know) cook our baits, with hair dryers and heat guns.
From what BobP says, perhaps I should consider going only for a partial cure for use with Dicknite's, as it sounds as though he's getting a pretty terrific bond between his paint and topcoat. Very interesting, and the kind of thing that pops up in discussion such as this one
Anyway, DT, I do appreciate your knowledge on the subject of clearcoats, but please accept the plausibility of the possibility that I'm heating my epoxy sealed lures into the 200+ F. degree range without damaging them, and I'm achieving a complete paint cure!
And T-shirts and popping breakers aside, I already addressed lacquer with which I've topcoated, in my earlier post:
You can no longer take it to the sink and wash it off, but most noticeably to everyone who uses Dicknite's Topcoat, or lacquer for clearcoating, it is now solvent resistant--and I apply mine with a brush
I am sorry that you found my posts mean-spirited, because that was truly not my intention. Are you mad because I suggested that it was possible that I had a better idea of what was happening with my lures in my house than you? Is that what you considered my attacking you?
Well, then I am truly sorry, I had no idea you felt that you were being attacked. Unless you are obviously out of line, I won't question your conclusions on the subjects of paint and clearcoats from now on.
My questions were only intended to further the knowledge base on this subject. I'm sorry I was mean spirited and disrespected you, I really did not mean to do that.
Edited by Dean McClain, 07 February 2009 - 11:17 AM.