Birdman

How To Make Hardbait Stencils Using Plastic Milk Cartons

19 posts in this topic

This is a quick step process for taking ordinary plastic milk cartons (polyethelene) and building form fitting stencils to spray through time after time. For those interested in any level of production, this will allow consistent pattern recognition.

birdman

Hardbait Stencils.pdf

Hardbait Stencils.pdf

Hardbait Stencils.pdf

Hardbait Stencils.pdf

Hardbait Stencils.pdf

Hardbait Stencils.pdf

Hardbait Stencils.pdf

Hardbait Stencils.pdf

Hardbait Stencils.pdf

Edited by Spike-A-Pike
Added PDF file
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Well done Birdman, I appreciate the time you have spent here. Some of the attachments don't open, not sure if it is me or TU - not a problem though, I think I have got it all. Thanks again. pete

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Pete,

No it's not you. Twice while making the tutorial I lost log in with TU and I think that's why the first 9 photos failed to upload. I'm going to try to get this post dissolved and reload the process again. If that fails, I'll create a link to the full pictorial version but I'd rather keep it right here. I hope you give it a shot and if I can be of any help, just ask.

Ron

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Ron,

Thanks for taking the time to share your methods for constructing stencils. When completed, they should last for years!

Bruce

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Birdman.

Very good solution to the problem and a very good tutorial. Thanks for the share.

Dave

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Nice job, Birdman. I do not use stencils yet, but I will have in mind your idea when I will.

Maybe you can improve the process. Why do you need to use such an expensive mold material, since Plaster of Paris may do the same job? At least I have made such molds to pour lead, and they worked OK.

I think you can avoid the wood sticking to the mold, by using some grease, or oil. Never tried this out, but I think it will work.

Also, you can put some screws, or something else in the wood, for a better handling.

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You posted many ideas I could use elsewhere! Good job! Thank you very much for going to the trouble of sharing.

Good luck on everything!

John

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That is a perfect way to make long lasting stencils. Thank you for sharing it with us. Let me share the way I make them and by no means am I trying to put down or upstage your way. It is truly awesome:worship:. I buy large diameter heat shrink tubes. The kind used on large electrical wire. The smallest I use is like 1/2" up to 1 1/2". For an example, say I wanted to copy a wiggle wart pattern. I slide the heat shrink over the wart. Heat it very slowly so I don't warp the lure. I use a heat gun for this. When the heat shrink is tightly conformed to the lure, I use an exacto knife and begin to cut out the pattern. Since I use transparent heat shrink, I can see the pattern through the heat shrink and just trace around it with the knife. Then, I cut down the bell and back and I have my two halves. I then put the two halves back on the lure and simply put a piece of masking tape down the belly or back to make a clam shell out of it. Usually, as the bait tapers toward the tail, there will be excess heat shrink. I take a pair of pliers and smash the excess together while it is hot to form a place to hold onto the stencil. The heat shrink forms around the bill and the hook eyes to give you perfect placement every time!

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you see this kind of molded stencils in the fishcarver sites. I will have to try this for myself ,thanks guys :)

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Hughesy

These are both great ideas. I am going to try both. The heat shrink stencils seem to be a little less labor intensive. Where do you find the larger heat shrink tubing? I've tried the local hardware stores, autoparts stores, and a few local electrical suppliers. They do not have anything that large. None of them have clear in any size. I've searched the internet and there are too many choices. Is there a specific kind you are using?

Thanks,

Randy

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I buy mine on line. I don't remember where I bought it last time but any clear heat shrink works. The last stuff I bought was 3M. You want to measure the diameter on the lure and then buy heat shrink that fits snugly over the lure. It only shrinks so much so a larger heat shrink will not shrink around the lure properly.

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