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E-Tex set times
8 replies to this topic
Posted 03 February 2009 - 11:14 AM
I use Enviro for the clear coat on the lures. At what point does it really start to thicken so it is not so runny??? Devcon and others are thick to the point of having to thin with alcohol:sauced:. By the way, what quick acting epoxies will yellow over time?? Was it a WallyWorld brand?? Thanks.
Posted 03 February 2009 - 11:18 AM
When I used Etex, I found I had to turn them for at least eight hours in warm weather, and longer in cold weather.
As far as yellowing epoxy, if it doesn't say UV inhibitors added, it will yellow. How much varies with both brand and batch.
Posted 03 February 2009 - 12:16 PM
Hey Mark, I think all epoxies and polyurethanes will yellow eventually. A UV inhibitor just makes it take longer. If you can build an epoxy coated crankbait that won't significantly yellow in 3-4 years, it's an accomplishment. Of course, if you can fish a crankbait without losing or trashing it in 3-4 years, that's also an accomplishment, so it may be a moot point.
Posted 03 February 2009 - 12:46 PM
I guess I didnt say enough about the times. I mix the 2 parts in a lil plastic measuring cup. I whip it to a frenzy and little bubbles get stirred up in the mix. Some mix it up for several minutes. Some longer. But I read that there are a few who will let it set in the cup for a while, letting it firm up before applying it. THAT is the amount of time in question.
Posted 03 February 2009 - 01:28 PM
i warm the hardener and resin before mixing this makes the mixing easier and releases the bubbles better then let it sit for 15-20 minutes then use it,much longer than that and i find it harder to brush on
Posted 03 February 2009 - 02:33 PM
You're right. As a rule of thumb, the better the paint job and the better the ability to catch fish, the faster you lose it! The ones that "last forever" are the ones that don't work.
I just got tired of both D2T and Etex yellowing after a couple of trips.
I use a paper clip to mix my epoxy, and then I roll it around in the plastic mixing cup while I blow it with the hair dryer. The bubbles usually burst this way.
Even when I use a fine artist's brush, I get little bubbles when I'm coating, but I can usually brush them out.
It's the bubbles from air trapped under the stick on eyes that drive me nuts. I am constantly checking for those, and still miss some.
I get the same working time whether I use the hair dryer on it in the mixing cup or not. Heating the epoxy just makes it more runny, and easier to apply. I am always able to turn the lures for an hour or so, check for bad spots or bubbles, and then use epoxy from the same mixing cup batch to fix them. The mixed epoxy is still usable after an hour, and will still level out on the lure.
I do the same thing when it's cold. Never had it affect the epoxy. I also hit the epoxy in the mixing cup with the hair dryer while I'm coating to keep it runny when it's cold. I alsopreheat the lures when they're on the wheel before I start coating, but, once I've begun coating, I try not to hit them with the hair dryer, in case I might kick up some dust.
Posted 05 February 2009 - 06:56 AM
Mark- in regard to those air bubbles under the eyes, the bubbles come with them when you buy the eyes - If you make your own eyes, you get to see them before you coat the lure, and you are never disappointed, it's just too late to do anything about it. pete
Posted 05 February 2009 - 07:52 AM
The bubbles are from air trapped in the forstner bit pilot hole from the eye recess hole. I need to fill them before I install the eyes. I know that, but sometimes I'm in a hurry, and forget.
Posted 05 February 2009 - 11:05 AM
I use Etex allot,a good equal mix is important ,try using a syringe to make sure you get equal amounts of part1 and 2.
I let it set for about 35 to 40min.then apply too the lure ,it seems to run less becouse its thicker , you still need to have it on a "dryer/rotisserie" till it sets completely , takes about 8hrs to be tac free.
Edited by seafoam, 05 February 2009 - 11:07 AM.