Rapala's still wood???
8 replies to this topic
Posted 11 February 2009 - 05:33 PM
I cant bear to cut one open. Are they still made from balsa?
Posted 11 February 2009 - 05:59 PM
Depends on each particular model , some are of plastic , also read in a new German tackle catalog , that one model was made of abachewood .
Maybe , this could help :
DHC - Deutscher Hechtangler-Club e.V.
Click on pics to enlarge !
greetz , diemai
Edited by diemai, 11 February 2009 - 06:19 PM.
Posted 11 February 2009 - 09:01 PM
They say "pictures are worth a thousaand words." That's good cause I cannot read German! Thankx.
Posted 11 February 2009 - 10:11 PM
Thankyou very much for sharing that chart with everyone on the forum. I also like to see how lures are made and that is the coolest thing ever. once again thankyou very much for sharing:).
Posted 12 February 2009 - 01:42 AM
Thanks guys , but these X-rays are not of German origin , the DHC also got them from a Finnish (what else:lol:?) site .
So , bear in mind , if you wanna know about an unknown lure's weighting and construction , take it to the doctors(but don't let them submit you to a home for the mentally sick) !
greetz:yay: , diemai
Posted 12 February 2009 - 05:06 AM
Above is a TU link from 2007. The Xray thing has been discussed before a few times. But it is good to bring it to the surface again, all good information.
x-ray, x-rays, xray, xrays (for search function in future. I found the above link searching "rays").
Posted 12 February 2009 - 03:14 PM
A lot of their models are plastic. In fact I broke 2 open just last night. $25.00 down the drain but I wanted to mold the lip off of the good old husky Jerk.
Posted 12 February 2009 - 10:49 PM
Cool link diemai, did anyone notice the adjustable spring-loaded diving lip on the Abu Hi-Lo; that is a wicked concept! Has anyone toyed around with that idea yet, if so how do you keep it watertight & how is the lip attached. I would think that it would have to pivot on a pin somehow.
Posted 13 February 2009 - 01:48 AM
I have a few "Hi-Lo's" in my tackle boxes , they've got some promotion over here during the past 2 or 3 years , but apart from some new models(made in Taiwan nowadays) , I also have some older ones as well still made in Sweden , that a workmate found on the attic of an old house , that he had moved in .
ABU obviously took over the design from an early "Heddon" crankbait , only added its patented adjustable lip .
This lip can be set in 6 different position(if my memory serve´s me right) , with it's steepest setting it points slightly backward more than a 90° position , so the lure skims the surface , at the most forward position it almost points straight forward to cause the lure to dig down with a very lazy wiggle .
I find the lip settings inbetween to be best , since the lure has the most pronounced wiggle at this stage .
The biggest model is 18 cm long(7 1/5") , there are smaller and jointed and also sinking models available .
The lip pivots around a riveted pin leading crosswise through the body .
A coil spring with a steelball on top of it engages into a ratchet , that is connected to the lip to fix the lip in its actual position .
A little pressure applied to the lip would cause the engaged steelball to slip out of its actual groove and slide into the next one to lock it again , a rather foolproof and proven patent .
The ratchet disc sits 90° offset on the lip and slides in a vertical slot through the head of lure , the coilspring with its steelball on top is located in a bore right on the center lengthwise axis of lure , engaging into the ratchet from behind .
Guess , that you can buy these lures in the USA as well , just google for "abu hi-lo" , I think , that I have seen them on an American site before ?
If you want to utilize this patent for a homemade , you need to make your lure of waterproof , rigid material , maybe PVC would be an option .
Guess , its useless to try making it from wood , not only for sealing problems , but also due to the wear of the mechanical parts .
The lip(or at least the ratchet) has to be of metal(SSt or brass) , the spring and steelball can be protected with a bedding of grease in their bore , that may be renewed from time to time , since usually these parts are not available in rustproof qualities .
You see , I already spend some thoughts on it , but its not practically to work with wood , and I am not yet familiar working with PVC .
greetz:yay: , diemai