Which is the best type of paint for cast resin (super plastic) lures?
16 replies to this topic
Posted 05 March 2009 - 01:33 PM
I just got started making my own topwater lures. I am using a two part casting resin, Super Plastic, just wondering if anyone can help me with what type of paints to use with an airbrush? Thanks for any tips!
Posted 05 March 2009 - 03:34 PM
Any type of paint works on cured resin. I used a rattle can spray flat white as a base coat (long time ago).
Some recommend letting the cast stand for a week before painting, because of de-gassing issues. But if you are just building for yourself, well, let's say, the most I waited was 24 hours.
I tried googling this resin and could not find it on Alumilites site, nor could I find a density figure. Does the packaging give a density number in the specs sheet? I am concerned it may sink like a stone, as regular resin is heavier than water.
Cast a test piece and see if it floats.
Welcome to TU.
Posted 05 March 2009 - 03:49 PM
Thanks for the info. It is an alumalite product. You can find it under the casting resins tab. It has a specific gravity of 1.05, and a hardness of 72D. Whatever that means. I don't see anything about the density. I was planning on mixing microballoons into it to make sure it floats. I am basically following the same recipe Larry Dahlberg used on his "Hunt for Big Fish" television show. So I can just use a spray paint for the base coat. Thanks. I will gladly accept any other tips!
Posted 05 March 2009 - 04:00 PM
Density and specific gravity are basically the same information. Except density has units, like Kg/m3 ( kilograms per metre cube) or Lbs/cu ft ( pounds per cubic foot). Specific gravity is dimensionless and is a direct comparison with pure water.
So your sg is 1.05, which means that the cured resin is very slightly heavier than water. By the time you have added hanger wires, split rings, hooks, paint and top coat, it is going to sink, fairly fast.
The solution is microspheres, I think most guys use 3M silicone microsperes (or microballoons). Mixing these with the resin will reduce the sg to around 0.7 before the mix starts to get too thick to pour easily.
Plenty has been written in the TU threads on microspheres. Try a search on resin, microspheres, microballoons, try different combinations of words. You should find plenty of reading.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but all is not lost.
Posted 05 March 2009 - 08:06 PM
I dont see anything on Aluminite's site that says "Super Plastic"
you need to be more specific, is it the Amazing Casting Resin? I am looking at the Aluminite Clear, but the viscosity is 400cps, have you ever tried any casting resin with that high of a viscosity?
Posted 05 March 2009 - 09:25 PM
I use Krylon plastic primer and have yet to have a bait delaminate
A lot of people including myself use alumilite regular Alumilite - Products - Casting Resins - Alumilite Regular
its the strongest, has the fastest demold time and its cheaper you can buy Micro balloons on there website also
Alumilite - Products - Dyes - Fillers - Microballoons
Alumilite is easy to use in fact I'm going to pour a bunch tomorrow .
any ? feel free to PM me
Edited by K.C.K., 05 March 2009 - 10:16 PM.
Posted 05 March 2009 - 09:45 PM
Im interested If you make your own molds for this product.Would our traditional mold making medias work for this product?
Posted 05 March 2009 - 10:18 PM
Braveveiper, I would not like to try Plaster of Paris for resin casting, it would be easy for the resin cast to get locked in and ruin the mold. The "hard cast - soft mold" rule definately applies here.
I would be interested in hearing from anyone who has tried casting resin in a Plaster of Paris mold.
Posted 05 March 2009 - 10:21 PM
Hagens has molds for this stuff right? Like 800$ crankbait molds?
Posted 05 March 2009 - 10:48 PM
I used Bondo molds to cast 16 lb foam, which is much more difficult to work with than UR. Hard molds cannot have any undercuts and must be totally symetrical.
While they did work, they came in a distant second to RTV.
As an aside, I use a different UR than Alumilite. It's less expensive and seems to have all the positive properties that Alumilite does:twocents:
Posted 05 March 2009 - 11:22 PM
Husky, I tried Plaster of Paris with the foam, what a waste of several days that was. It was that experience that prompted my post above.
Posted 06 March 2009 - 01:32 PM
When pouring alumilite it is best to preheat your mold. Silicone works best for this... stick with what works best..you will save yourself a lot of headaches .
Posted 11 March 2009 - 08:36 AM
Lets just say I want to get involved make hard plastic poppers. I make a mold from rtv of my favorite popper. How would one attach the hook points and line ties? Would I have to have a thru wire inside?
Posted 11 March 2009 - 09:30 AM
It's better to have a thru wire because you need to keep the ballast centered and attached to something, but they supply line ties and hook points, figure 8 line ties, for use with unglued crankbait bodies, i'm sure you can get away with those for the line ties and rear hook, but the center needs to hold the ballast weight. I dunno with top water if the hooks are heavy enough to keep the lure upright, so you may not need a ballast, if you are casting with plastic. Let some more experienced makers give you an answer b/c i hardly know anything