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Airbrush/ scale netting problem
15 replies to this topic
Posted 08 March 2009 - 05:43 PM
I am having a problem getting a good scale pattern paintjob with my airbrush. I have a dual action brush and I am using nylon net as my scale pattern. I am using Createx paints. I am trying to spray pearl white over pearl silver. My problem is this. In order to get the pearl white to cover over the pearl silver, it is taking quite a bit of paint. Then, when I remove the netting I have a big runny mess because the paint has run under the netting. I am new to lure making and air brushing. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Posted 08 March 2009 - 06:58 PM
try warming the bait a bit, spray from further away. how many lbs pressure are you using??
Posted 08 March 2009 - 07:06 PM
Sorry but I am not familar with Createx or other arcylic paints but to the best of my knowledge, there is very little distinction between pearl white and pearl silver. In fact, Pearl White has some silver already mixed in so it will naturally bleed through the pearl white coat. I'd try a different color pattern. It's possible that color combination would be indistinquishable to most predatory fish anyway. Look to some of the commercially painted baits and replicate their patterns for starters.
Here are the basic paint characteristics:
1) Opaque and Semi-transparent
Pearl White or Pearl Silver make a great base coat followed by an opaque on the
A basic rule of thumb when starting out is to begin with a lighter base coat on your bait and work your way out with progressively darker colors. (This is not true for silver on black or irredescent blue/violet on black but you'll learn that in time.) By laying down an opaque color first then layering transparent colors on top, you'll find some very interesting effects can be produced by blending those colors together.
Posted 08 March 2009 - 08:27 PM
use light coats of paint, in between coats use a hair dryer to dry the paint.
btw white pearl is very runnie, also does`t cover very well
Posted 08 March 2009 - 09:32 PM
I would agree with the color issue. I wrap the netting tight with small spring clamps all the way across my baits. Most of the time with scaling less is more. I practiced on pvc pipe pieces before going to my baits. Lower pressure and light coats usually works best.
Posted 08 March 2009 - 09:51 PM
I agree with Birdman. There's not enough difference between Createx pearl white and pearl silver for an effective contrast. I would try a medium or neutral gray vs the pearl silver.
Posted 09 March 2009 - 06:51 AM
i agree with what everybody else has said but you could putdown some transparent white lightly dry it with hairdryer then shoot your pearl. Remember your wife's old hair dryer is your freind bought mine a new one even let her pick out.
Posted 09 March 2009 - 12:06 PM
Birdman is correct about the two colors not being different enough in contrast. What I do if I need to get some contrast between those two colors is spray the pearl white first, then spray black where the I eventually want silver then when that dries spray the silver. If you are doing a scale pattern you will have to leave the netting on so the scales are in the same place. Probably use some sprat adhesive to keep it there while the paint dries. You should see a significant difference in contrast with the black under the silver. I feel like I do anyway. You should be able to do the reverse to and if you are putting white pearl over silver just make sure wherever you put silver put black down first. See how that works for you.
Posted 09 March 2009 - 03:12 PM
Couple of suggestions. Spray much lighter coats of pearl white in each pass of the air brush. You may not even see the pearl white with the first couple of passes. Just take your time. If you want much of a contrash use the thickest threaded mesh you can find for the scale size you want. But like everyone said Createx Pearl White and Createx Pearl Silver may not give you what you want. I can recommend that if you want a better contrast of these two colors, try using Parma Acrylic Fas Chrome, I think you will be much happier with the contrast. I get it at Hobby Town.
Posted 09 March 2009 - 04:58 PM
I second that.
Posted 11 March 2009 - 04:39 PM
Thanks for the great answers. I do have another problem concerning my airbrush. I have a Paasche VL dual action I bought used off of Ebay. It seems I cannot get a light mist from the brush. I am new to airbrushing so I really do not know alot about it. after pulling the trigger back about half way it starts to spray at about the same volume as a rattle can. It seems to me I should be able to control the volume of paint a little more than that. I have tried varying PSI up to 40 lbs. I am using Createx paint which is supposed to be airbrush ready. I have even tried thinning the Createx a little. with no difference. I have disassembled the brush several times to make sure it is clean. I have checked to make sure all of the needles , tips, and nozzles match up with each other. What do you think the problem is?
Posted 11 March 2009 - 05:19 PM
I only sprayed Createx to practice indoors when I first started. It does not come airbrush ready in my opinion, it would need reducing. I shoot urethane paint thinned for airbrush use and it is thin. A lot of guys here use createx and can tell you the best way to reduce it. I would check the needle size the #3 is probably best all around however for fine detail on small baits and as you get more practice you may go smaller. I spray at 15 to 20psi with the Automotive paints, #3 in my vl and 2 in my Iwata. I would think properly reduced createx would be similar. Do not get frustrated figure it out the painting gets addictive!
Posted 11 March 2009 - 10:02 PM
A Paasche VL kit comes with 3 tips, 3 nozzles and 3 needles - F, M and L. There are little engraved bands on the needles and and little letters on the tips to match them up. Make sure you have the small F set in the airbrush and all the parts match. It's easy to get them mixed up! Try a lower psi, say 15-20. If you still have problems, do a thorough cleaning of the airbrush and take a close look to insure the needle isn't bent and the nozzle isn't split.
Posted 11 March 2009 - 10:38 PM
I would do everything Bob says, then throw it away & buy an Iwata:yeah:! Yust kidding, sort of.
Posted 12 March 2009 - 08:11 AM
I had the same problem using rattle cans and I discovered that the netting must be tight on the lure so the paint cannot run under the netting
This is what I do
with an open pizza box(top vertical) place lure on it's side on the bottom of box, place netting over top and secure in place with tacks that have a little handle on them making sure the netting is tight on all points of the lure, odd shaped are a little more difficult.
Spray directly over top of the side of the lure, if you spray on an angle paint will go underneath the netting
Remove pins only on one side of the netting and vary carefully pull back the netting ,do this when the paint is wet or else the paint will peel
Sorry have't figured out how to insert pics yet
Posted 12 March 2009 - 11:04 AM
Birdman is right about there being very little contrast between pearl silver and pearl white, and it's especially true with Createx. I do shoot subtlely different shades over one another with Createx, and I don't expect to see hardly any contrast until I clearcoat the bait, and inspect it in good light for shifts in irridescence with movement. However, pearl silver is really just a slightly darker version of pearl white. You have to have more contrast than that!
I haven't thinned any Createx or Parma since I began using an Iwata Eclipse HP-BS (gravity feed), and these are the only paints I currently use. I do shake each color thoroughly and strain the paint with a small piece of nylon hose placed between the top of the bottle and and the flip-up bottle cap---easy to do and easy to change periodically. I also keep a clean brush. This eliminates any and all spraying problems for me.