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Scroll saw or band saw?
21 replies to this topic
Posted 13 March 2009 - 05:57 AM
hey guys this is my first post on TU but i have been stalking for a while now, i haven't posted because i haven't really had any questions.
What do you guys prefer to use scroll saws or band saws? There only going too be smallish lures 8cm and downwards.Any advice on what you guys think would be the easiest of the two to start me off with would be extremely appreciated.
Posted 13 March 2009 - 06:34 AM
I would never part with my bandsaw and belt sander. Apart from lures, they are so useful for other jobs.
Which ever machine you buy, read the manual and set it up right before use, very important. I didn't (unusual for me) and it cost me $$$ on both the bandsaw and the belt sander.
Posted 13 March 2009 - 08:00 AM
Band saw with a thin blade. You can cut your wood blanks and your lips both.
I bought mine on sale at Lowe's a few years back for about $75.00 and I wouldn't take triple my money back for it. Have had to replace about 4 blades over the past 4 or 5 year and clean the saw dust out every now and then.
Be sure you read the instructions and practice safety when operating it, they can be a little dangerous to fingers if you don't.
Posted 13 March 2009 - 12:20 PM
A scroll saw cuts more exactly. A bandsaw cuts lots faster. It depends on what wood you're cutting to some extent. If it's hardwood - definitely go with a bandsaw. Either will cut balsa fast enough to keep you happy. You have to be very patient to cut hardwood more than 1/4" thick with a scroll saw. Believe me, I own only a scroll saw and know!
Posted 13 March 2009 - 05:46 PM
for the lure size you mention i'd go with the scroll saw,i use a band saw for large musky/pike sized lures but a scroll saw would be better if your cutting small 3 inch baits in my opinion
Posted 13 March 2009 - 08:20 PM
I agree with bobP. What kind of wood is very important. The band saw is more versitale and you can cut oak with no problem.
Posted 13 March 2009 - 08:30 PM
o sorry guys, majority of the wood will be pine so nothing to hard.
Posted 13 March 2009 - 08:41 PM
Bandsaw hands down....I've got a scroll saw aswell and haven't used it in years..Like Vodkaman said,throw in a belt sander and you can build just about any bait..Nathan
Posted 16 March 2009 - 07:53 AM
A small, table top bandsaw will be the perfect saw for you.
It can cut all but the hardest woods, as long as you have a sharp blade, so pine would be no problem. And the blades will last many times longer than with a scroll saw. Plus, it cuts much more smoothly and easily than a scroll saw.
The there a couple of simple safety rules with band saws.
Always keep your fingers to the sides or behind the blade, never in front, always use a sharp blade ( the smaller the saw, the shorter the blade, so the faster it dulls), never feed the work into the blade faster than it will cut, and always keep the blade tensioned. properly.
I've use power tool all my life, so my brain is always concious of where my hands are, but these rules will keep you safe.
Posted 16 March 2009 - 01:05 PM
Band saw. I have both and find the scroll saw much more difficult to use so it just sits there taking up space.
Posted 16 March 2009 - 02:28 PM
I have a scroll saw which is fine for balsa, and a minor mistake does not cause a major hospital bill. But a guy with only a scroll saw, will need a band saw at some point, and as you see here, a guy with a bandsaw does not necessarily ever need a scroll saw.
Posted 17 March 2009 - 05:16 PM
well i picked up a small desktop band saw, still trying to tune the guides it came with 3mm blade so thats pretty cool. o well back to tuning
Posted 17 March 2009 - 06:29 PM
I have a question about the tension of the blade, should i be able to move the blade where you cut from side to side with ease or difficulty? the manual doesn't really elaborate.
Posted 17 March 2009 - 07:22 PM
With difficulty. Mine has adjustable blocks each side of the blade, above and below. These prevent the blade from deflecting or wandering. They should be adjusted very close, but not touching. There are also thrust bearings above and below that require adjustment in a similar way.
With the side open, the tension is judged by plucking the band and tightening until a definite musical tone can be heard.
Side still open, then you spin the wheel by hand and check that the blade sits in the centre of the wheels. If it gets close to the edge, there is another adjustment for this.
Read your manual for all these adjustments. Your bandsaw may have variations on mine.
Look after your eyes, ears and fingers with appropriate precautions, again, read the manual for suggestions.
Posted 17 March 2009 - 07:57 PM
well i have got .8th of mm between the two upper guides, i didn't need to adjust the lower guides, i have got the teeth in the center of the wheels. and the back up bearing just under a mm away from the blade.
Posted 17 March 2009 - 08:30 PM
I just dug out my manual, which was neatly stored under a pile of paint tins, in the shop.
Thrust bearing gap 0.4mm (1/64")
Blade guides gap 0.8mm (1/32")
So the figures are the same.
The notes on blade tension were very vague. It mentioned the musical not thing, but musical notes vary from a bottom A flat to a double Z sharp! This is not precise enough for Vman. It did say that the tensioner knob should not be screwed all the way down, as the spring acts as a shock absorber.
I adjusted mine from slack, until a discernable musical note could be heard, so probably close to the bottom A flat.
It did mention an alternative of raising the head and measuring the side play at the cutter point (1/8"). Again, very un-precise, depends how hard you push the blade.
You have to do the tension thing before doing the gaps thing. If you didn't, just re-check the gaps.
You may feel that I am being over pedantic about this, but I stripped the liner off the wheels on mine, by not doing the adjustments.
Posted 17 March 2009 - 10:08 PM
wow trying to track it straight is really quite frustrating, i manage to get the blade to track straight for about 8 rotations than it likes to drift to any of the sides of the wheel, the tension of the blade is anything but loose? I'm assuming its because the tool is low quality Ryobi150L