Windex as Thinner
26 replies to this topic
Posted 24 June 2009 - 01:14 AM
I have been using some stuff called Flotrol. It is from home depot and it is a medium for acrylic paints. If it does not get it thin enough for me, I can add water and it doesnt damage the adhesive properties because flotrol is pretty much acrylic paint with no pigment. Dunno, have not used it with every craft paint yet, but works for some of the thicke folk art stuff.
Posted 24 June 2009 - 09:45 AM
I met a guy who airbrushes cars and bikes for a living, and has been doing so for many many years, he says the best thing he has found is this:
1 cup rubbing alcohol
4 cups water
1 cup glass cleaner
5 drops glycerine
I'd take this guys opinion in high reguard, he knows his poo, but I don't know if this is bad or good as far as our little niche goes. Opinions?
Posted 24 June 2009 - 10:57 AM
Tap water in a spray bottle. Works, it's cheap and easy to mix up a batch:lol: Createx says right on the bottle it can be thinned with water. I believe it. If you use esoteric airbrush paint with special formulation, something more may be needed or helpful. Using Createx, Smith Wildlife, Polytranspar, and Van Dykes acrylics, I haven't felt the need. Army Doc, the mix you posted contains stuff that is already in most airbrush paints as flow enhancer and surfactant. No harm, no foul. It should work good.
Sometimes it seems to me that TUers are prone to gild every lily! (I'm not talking about thinning agents here, but it's related). It's fine if based on solid experience or scientific fact. But we see lots of posts about finish failures for seemingly mysterious reasons. The finish on a crankbait is a SYSTEM that works together to make it durable and pretty. There is chemical bonding and interaction between the finish layers going on, and they need to be compatible or problems will bite you on the .... For me, the best way to avoid problems has been to keep it simple. Use a set of compatible coatings and don't throw 'mystery ingredients' into the mix. If you do, recognize you're conducting an experiment that may fail.
Posted 24 June 2009 - 12:11 PM
Well said Bob . Just to many bench chemist out there for me. I let the paint manufactures do all the studying for me. That is what I pay them for(buy there product). A system is the best policy.
Posted 24 June 2009 - 01:41 PM
Wise words from both Frank and Bob.....don't play home chemistry with paints and cleaning supplies, then put them in your airbrush to atomize into the air your breathing.:?Not a good idea in my book.
Posted 26 June 2009 - 02:24 PM
I got my mix from the tutorial here on TU - 95/5/5
I use a gallon of distilled water 3 oz of alcohol and 5 drops of dish soap.
It is also what I use for cleaning the airbrush.
The alcohol keeps the paint from drying fast in the brush and the soap makes slick and it easy to clean
Yse an old mustard dispenser for sqquirting through the brush.
I'm alsways looking for the easy way out.
Posted 26 June 2009 - 02:59 PM
I've tried windex solution and I kept getting bubbles. Now I use a heatgun set on the lowest setting. I put it on the stand it came with and turn it on. I pass the bait in front of it to warm just a little, then I start to spray. Every few seconds I pass the bait in front of the gun and the paint dries before it has a chance to separate.
Works great and there is only the paint and water in the air. You also don't have to worry about your brush.