Dazedrodeo

Top Coat

17 posts in this topic

I painted my 1st bait and it looks fine but I need to put on a top coat. I was at Wal-mart and saw a can of clear gloss acrylic spray paint(Krylon) in the rattle can section. Has any one ever used this stuff as a final top coat and achived good results:huh:

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I painted my 1st bait and it looks fine but I need to put on a top coat. I was at Wal-mart and saw a can of clear gloss acrylic spray paint(Krylon) in the rattle can section. Has any one ever used this stuff as a final top coat and achived good results:huh:

Don't do it!!!!!!!!

Use an epoxy topcoat. Search the forum. Lot's of recommendations.

:sauced:

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Thanks ipock2 but I dont have a drying wheel and my wife is not to happy with the money I have spent so far in this hobby.

Edited by Dazedrodeo

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You do not need a drying wheel to top coat a single bait. I've done it 2 different ways. 1- hang the bait for 5 min and then hang from the other end for 5 min. 2- hold the bait with vise grips and slowy rotate while watching tv. The 2nd method was a pain but it worked.

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After a few nights watching you do this, she will get the cheque book out.

A drying wheel need not cost any money. In this throw-away world we live in, people buy new microwaves and dump the old ones. You just gotta find out who is buying a new one, your wife will be able to help you there. The rest of the wheel is just scraps of wood or what ever you have lying around.

Once you can produce a really nice looking bait that catches fish, you can sell one or two on e-bay occasionally, to buy your wife a box of chocs or a bunch of flowers or a bandsaw.

Dave

Edited by Vodkaman

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If you are clearcoating a commercial type hard plastic lure that coating will work for you. Spray it on, let dry, apply a second and third coat. Use light coats. You won't get a super hard finish like you get with an epoxy but it will work good enough to fish. It will take a day or more for it to cure. If it is a wood lure, better use epoxy.

Jed

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Thanks guys for all the help. I need to learn how to upload pics so I can show you all the two baits I got now. I think they look real nice, me and my daughter sat around and came up with a nice and simple blue gill pattern that just pops.

Well I guess I'm off to the flea market, but before that I will interrogate mife wife to see whats she knows about microwaves8O

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i used the apoxy worked great got a rotissery from lows made a dryer worked great now i'm spraying my lures with ppg clear coat alot easier and looks great took a bait fishing the other day on the second cast caught a 1.5 ib large mouth lost the lure on the third cast lol line broke but i much rather use the ppg clear coat instead of apoxy for sure myself.....i usually get about 6 to 10 ready then clear them all at once let dry over nite go fishing in the moring i have not had any problems with the clear coat yet

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I apologize if I get in the wrong topic, but I really wonder what is envirotex? This varnish or something else? Just I'm not very good at English slang and I hard to translate into Russian the word ... For example in the video about the production of wobblers mangeboy Give it uses .. please if not difficult to tell what ... or cover wood before painting ... Thank you all.

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So if you use this envirotex stuff do you use it as a top coat over the paint? Do you dip, brush, spray or what? Also, has anybody had any success with Componant Systems seal coat?

I'm new at this and any help would be great! Thanks!

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I am fairly new to, but a thorough search of the forums with key words like"clear coat" or "top coat" will work. Try looking at a lot of the threads about this.

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Spider, envirotex (Etex) can be dipped, brushed or sprayed. If you are coating a lot of baits, say 20+, then it would be worth dipping. If you are only doing one or two, then dipping would be very wasteful, so brushing would be better. Some members do spray Etex, but again, has to be large numbers to make it worth while cleaning the brush out, also it requires many more coats.

I've never used the stuff, I cannot get it in Indonesia. I guess it all depends where "house" is!!!

Dave

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Well thanks for all the help guys. I have looked at DN's and the 2 ton stuff it all seems like good stuff. The only problem with all that stuff is time and ease of application. DN has to many issues when using dont do this dont do that. the 2 ton stuff takes way to long to cure and you need to keep turning the lure or it will sag not good. I really need some ting I can dip or spray from a rattle can and just hag up to dry. I have been painting a lot since I got my airbrush a few weeks ago. I like to paint about ten or more lures at a time since it takes me a long time to set up my stuff and my wife really hates it when I start painting. shes like you could be doing some thing more productive like rakeing the yard. I have not paint any new blanks but I like going out to the lake and walking the shore line to find old lure which I can give new life to.

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If you do a search on Devcon or Etex, you will see that the search for the perfect top coat has been going on for a while now and does not look like the problem is going to be solved any day soon.

Every top coat has its advantages and disadvantages. It usually transpires that the more effective top coats have issues about appliction and storage, as you mentioned. Those coatings that are easy to apply tend not to be suitable for lures. Either they are too soft, react with the water, yellow in the sun etc.

There are probably half a dozen or so proven top coats, D2T, Etex, new lustre 55, propionate, Dick Nites etc. Each one has a learning curve associated with it. I suggest you have a good read, pick one and learn to use it.

Time is not an issue, only at the start. If a particular top coat takes say 5 days, then for the first 5 days you have no product. But if you make 10 lures every day, then after 5 days, ten lures will be ready every day.

In your spare time, sure, keep searching for the perfect top coat. If you find it, be sure to let us know on TU.

Dave

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