throttlejunkie

Tried a clear coat....grrrrrrrr

20 posts in this topic

I painted a crankbait the other day. Hot yellow faded to white on the bottom with purple scale shoulder and solid purple top. I just like the look of that color combo. Real basic stuff. I decided to try the jar of clear coat I bought instead of epoxy. It turned the purple to a kind of brownish color and the yellow fade looks terrible. Just curious if anyone knows what happened or what I may have done wrong? Oh yeah, I used CS paints and clear. Thanks

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Is your choice of top coat slightly yellow?

I ask because I think the purple viewed through a yellow filter (the yellow clear) looks brown. I found this link: WikiAnswers - What does the colors yellow and purple make

Also, this is an interesting read: http://home.att.net/~RTRUSCIO/COLORSYS.htm

Dave

Edited by Vodkaman

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I happen to like thos colors too, I use cyan flanks, yellow belly, purple back and red throat. I top coated these with devcon and had no color change problems.

Heat setting is important, as Jamie mentioned, but I doubt it caused this problem, could be wrong though. Read up on heat setting and give it a try.

maybe the thinner reactivated the purple and yellow?

Could be! In that case, heat setting will solve the problem.

Dave

Edited by Vodkaman

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I'll try it tomorrow. As a side note.... This site is amazing. I appreciate all the help you guys are willing to offer. It's great to get tips and advice from "been there, done that" guys(and gals). Again, thanks:yay:

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If I'm understanding you, you're using a water-based paint, and a water-based clear.

If so, this should help.

Heat set the paint, then try spraying a coat of Krylon pastel fixative before you top coat, to make a barrier between the paint and the top coat.

Edited by mark poulson

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Very sorry, I was thinking createx paints. CS vinyl will not heat set, it will probably ruin your lure if you try.

I still think you are correct about the thinner thing, so the paint needs protecting before the top coat. Maybe someone can suggest a suitable clear to protect.

Dave

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I think I'll try epoxy instead of shooting a clear. I have devcon 5 min in my shop, I was thinking if I thinned in a little bit it might allow enough time to flatten out. I've used it for a while on woodwork as a base finish before varnishing, but these are two different types of projects. We'll see.....

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I think I'll try epoxy instead of shooting a clear. I have devcon 5 min in my shop, I was thinking if I thinned in a little bit it might allow enough time to flatten out. I've used it for a while on woodwork as a base finish before varnishing, but these are two different types of projects. We'll see.....
Dont even try, you will only dissapoint yourself because there not enough time.

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There are lots of different epoxies, but they are all formulated differently and all have different qualities.

5 min epoxy is formulated as a quick fix glue. The bad thing about it, apart from speed of application, is that it is only water resistant and it yellows badly.

Devcon 2 ton (D2T) is a popular choice. It is crystal clear, shows the colors well, has more working time, is very hard and levels well. The very hard can also be classed as a disadvantage, as it chips on the rocks.

It does involve a short learning curve for application, such as how to apply, how thick, how to stop it sagging (by hand or wheel). But if you do some reading, you will master it very quickly. Mine was perfect after a couple of tries.

It is important to keep your fingers off the bait, oils from your skin will cause problems. Put it on thick, but not too thick. Use a strong light so you can see what you are doing. Hang it and reverse every few minutes. Do NOT touch for at least 24 hours, even if it feels dry. 48 hours would be better.

Mix the 2 parts equally with accuracy and mix well. Mixing causes a lot of issues, so pay attention. I use the bottom of a fizzy drinks can to mix, it has no corners to hide.

Let it settle for a minute to allow bubbles to disperse. If you see bubbles on the application, breathe on them and/or a few light passes with a hair dryer should do the trick.

Dave

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The vinyl lure paint I use is a solvent based paint.

If I were you, I'd paint up a couple of samples and try different "barrier" coatings until I figured out how to stop the bleeding, or I'd switch to another top coat.

I use a vinyl lure paint clear to coat my jigs. I get some interesting effects when I color the lure heads with alternating stripes of color with sharpies, and then dip them in the lure clear after they've dried.

The colors run enough to blend the edges together, and I get a cool looking marbled effect.

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If you like the CS stuff, you might want to consider trying enamels. Its a whole new world and allows techniques, colors, and effects unavailable or impractical with water-based paints.

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