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Lure Making Tips

33 posts in this topic

I run monthly tutorials on my site. I believe that this wonderful site is a great place for questions asked and answered, but I am doing something with a little different twist.

I have "Lure Making Timeouts" in which I disscuss neat little tricks or answer emailed questions about lure making. I do this as part of a lure making article. If you have any tricks or tips, email them to me for inclusion in my tutorials. I will give you credit (and rightly so) for the submission.

You can see my current article here for examples!

http://home.att.net/~carolinachiptwo/bigmacproject.htm

Thanks Yall!

Take Care!

Chip :D

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Nice feature Chip. What computer program are you using? Is the program just for a general idea? It looks like the bait you are making is different from the program generated one.

thanks, Tally-

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I use Auto Cad for design and Adobe Photoshop for color. The software photo on the site was done completely with Adobe Photoshop. Mac and I were going back and forth on a color patern he liked at the time. When he said "EUREKA! THATS IT" LOL :lol: I decided to post it with the article. I use autocad, because i can keep reproducing lures, make molds or feed measurements into milling machine. I particularly like the 3-D views I can get before I go to carving. I then use those measurements to turn out the prototype.

PS..... sometimes I see a lure I like, buy it, and make a pattern off it. I dont sell these lures. I only make them for friends and myself. (i.e. a buddy of mine wanted me to make him a believer for musky. Thats what I did to make it. Point is... you dont have to be technical.... I just enjoy the electronic gadgets!

Take Care Friend!

Chip :D

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Hey Chip,

I know you have said for your wire ties that you wrap the wire on itself and then epoxy it in. Do you wrap the wire around something to get the loop and then wrap the two ends one over the next weaving them like a rope? I have tried this and find it difficult to get an even wind. I am bit worried about strength with this method too as the lures I'm building are for chinooks and they definitely "tug on superman's cape", lol. Cool tutorial as always.

Thanks.

Jed

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I use round needle nose pilers. I then use smooth flat pliers to bend the wire around itself.

For hefty fish, I will go several inches into a large bait and use a tip to ensure I get epoxy all the way into the hole. I then screw the wire in, wiping excess epoxy away. For smaller baits, a wire through is definately the best option.

On wire throughs, I learned by cutting big Rapalas apart (to see whats inside) They do a wire through by cuttin a groove from the bottom all the way from tail to lips. (Rip through with a saw blade) insert the single wire and then fill in void with a heavy plastic wafer. Sand flush and paint.

I have also done this by glueing two sides together (temp), cut out lure, carve, and then take sides apart. I then dremel groove to accept wire and epoxy together with sandwiched/epoxied wire.

Take Care,

Chip :D

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I use automotive white primer (2 coats) .... seals and gives a white layer coating for upcoming color layers. I then use createx and finish up with two coats of envirotex or devcon

Take Care

Chip :D

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Chip,

Do you ever have any reactions between the createx and auto sealer since the auto sealer is problably oil based and createx is water based? If this works looks like you can save a step (sealer). Thanks Bob P

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There is no oil - No problems at all. Auto primer is solids and organic solvents. Once the coating flashes and the solvent outgasses, you are only left with the adhering solids. This coating seals the wood well. I have floated lures with only a primer coating with no effect on the wood grain.

This article: http://home.att.net/~carolinachiptwo/ shows me going from primer to createx.

Take care!

Chip :D

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I am sure you are already that good! If you havent already let it out.... Do So!

Regards and Thanks Sincerely!

Chip :D

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Chip,

Nice job on the tutorial and I like the way you are going about putting them together.. one question.. you said you are making your own hook and eye hardware.. are you threading the wire and then bending it or are you bending it and then threading it..what die size are you using on .062

wire.. I think the largest wire I carry is .051.. the scew in eyes I'm buying is about .070 thousands.. and they aren't machine threads..

so maybe I jumping the gun here and you are doing them some other way than threading them..

Thanks

Littlebear

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Yes... Another way....

I make a fisheye loop with the wire and take the tag end and wrap it tightly around the shaft I have created. I keep wrapping using flat bladed pliers until I wrap the wire completely around(many loops), thus making a screw. I then epoxy them into the bait.

I have never had one fail from pan fish to giant musky and salt: jacks, redfish, and bone fish.

I also place them at lease 20 - 30 percent into the lure. By the way... The hole I drill is just large enough to accept the wire.

Chip

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Ok.. I understand what you are doing.. what size shaft works the best..

in my head I was thinking something like 1/8 drill rod.. course your using

.061.. wire that would be real close to 1/16th.. LOL ...by the time you wrap it.. I say you would be close to needing a (.125 hole or 1/8)

sorry for all the questions.. but I do like the idea of making my own hardware for solid one piece baits..most of my hard baits are Musky baits

and they do need to be heavy duty..

I'm looking foward to the next steps..

keep up the good work

littlebear

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Yah.... With the SS .060 wire wrapped, it is a bigger hole. I plant it solidly, with plenty of glue and as deep in the bait as I can.. Try for 2/3rds. I have never had one fail on large pike..... Only caught a few muskie, but they were not giants.

Take care!!

Chip :D

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Chip-

What kind of scale are using? How accurate? How much? Where did you buy it? Sorry for all the Q's but I have one that weighs in 1/8 ounce incriments that just leaves too much room for error. I have been using my body shop scale but would like to have one at home.

Thanks, Tally-

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$420.00

vi100mg.gif

Acculab

High-Capacity Toploader Balances

New Higher Speed Processor

New, faster microprocessor, a new housing design (that directs spills away) and a re-designed sensor. Auto-calibration and a memory feature make operation easy.

Specifications: At start up, unit defaults to last weighing mode used. Memory feature totals results and allows consecutive weighing. Removable stainless steel platform cleans easily. Large LCD has low battery, overload/underload and stability/mode indicators. Sealed keypad with audio function tone. Units have auto-shutoff and auto-calibration

Capacity and readability: 4800g x 0.1g ... with RS-232

Take Care!

Chip :D

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:idea: I enjoy answering questions! I ask them too! Thats why this is such a great site!

Chip :D

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:lol: Hi there, I didn't buy one yet but I was told they have a nice 5 lb. scale that weights in ounces and in grams at Walmart for around $30.00.

This is what I am going to look into the next time I get to town. It would be in the gadgets section where they have knives and things like that. Check it out and let me know what you think. Ken Schmitz Mylures

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You can try here: http://www.scalesgalore.com/

Here is a model under $100.00 http://www.scalesgalore.com/ashiba_scales.htm#toploading

And here are sme kitchen models:

http://www.scalesgalore.com/tmulti.htm

To be honest, a $30.00 walmart scale may be good enough for what you want to do. If is precise enough... go for it :)

__________________________________

The particular scale I use, was bought for duability and accuracy over time. Monthly, I pass about 300 lures, epoxy cups, lead, etc. acoss it. It and its twin (i have two) have held up very well. you can find the acculab scales starting at about $129.00.

Take Care

Chip :D

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Chip,

Regarding the scale, I know you are using it to help determine crank-bait weights. My questions is do you determine the weight using ratio proportion.....that is the weight to be added is based upon a proportion of the weight of the lure? This is then used as a constant to determine the weight needed in other lures.

Jed

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weighthanging.JPG

To be honest, this is my method for weighting new lures. I weight them, float them, find center of gravity with an RC Airplane prop balancer, and distribute the weight in drilled holes.

When the lure is completed, I try them in the water. I have been known to drill into weight on a finished lure to remove or drill into wood to add weight. After a new lure is completed.... I can duplicate that on additional builds. Take into consideration (personality)..... each wood pieces density, etc

may make that lure work a little different. Thats individual lure "Personality"

take care!

Chip :D

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Hey Ken-

Save your money on the wal-mart scale. I bought one and it reads by grams every 2 grams or by ounces every 1/8 oz. It may be what you are looking for but it still leaves a little guess work.

Tally-

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