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Balsa filler, wire and assembly questions
34 replies to this topic
Posted 07 April 2009 - 03:05 PM
I myself dont make balsa baits for musky but I was given about thirty or so 6 and 8 inch cranks by a very good friend who passed away who fished with them. There action is great but they dont hold up for the long run. The monster shad that I used to fish with was a fad on the lake a few years ago and today I dont throw them for the cracking factor. I still fish with the cranks on small water, in my mind Im still fishing with him when I use them. I carry a picture of my best friend in my tackle box and he is still with me on every trip.
Posted 07 April 2009 - 09:48 PM
Thanks guys I just got into it so alot of my baits are still experimental, but it is always nice to hear what people with more experiance think.
Posted 08 April 2009 - 08:50 AM
On the subject of pull testing, have you guys ever used a piece of the actual fishing line to hang the lure while you test it?
I bet the line/knot will fail before the glue/epoxy.
My test is a pair of vise grips and my hands. If I can't pull it out, neither can the fish.
I agree with the barrel roll vs. haywire twist. I had the tail section, which had only one haywire twist hinge, actually unscrew on one of my early jointed baits. Of course, that was back when I was using 5 minute epoxy, and that's how I learned it was only water resistant.
I never had a failure with a two hinge joint using the haywire twist, because there is no rotational strain with two hinges.
But I went to sst screw eyes, for the added ability to adjust my joint spacing after I've initially assembled my lures.
And I, too, find that the runny crazy glue, especially with blasa and pine, penetrates soft wood so well it reinforces the thread area to the point that the wood over the entire length of the screw eye would come out if I tried to rip it out.
But remember the fumes from crazy glue don't like your sinuses! It smells bad for a reason, so use ventilation.
Posted 08 April 2009 - 11:30 AM
The reason that I went over to barrel twist, is that I had several haywire twists actually pull out of the resin, instead of the resin plug pulling out of the wood.
Since going over to barrel, I have never had this type of failure. All the above are during pull tests.
Jamie, pull tests are valid, especially if you are dealing with lighter density woods. As for twisting and torque, these are not going to pull the eye out. The biggest test for an eye is a straight inline axial load.
I agree, if you fish for critters that can tear your lure apart, then balsa is not the way to go.
Posted 09 April 2009 - 07:42 AM
Dave the torque test is not so much for the line tie strenght but the the strengh of the wood itself. Like I said earlier balsa baits when musky fishing bust down the grain and what if the grain bust at the line tie. Through wire has saved me in this situation.
Posted 09 April 2009 - 09:17 AM
I really dont know if a bass in marks neck of the woods in sothern cal. wouldnt be hard on those baits.When you get10 to 18 ponders I could only imagine the fight.
Posted 09 April 2009 - 09:18 AM
It is a pity their isn't a wood that comes inbetween a light cedar and a heavy balsa, something around 0.25 - 0.30gm/cm3. I am fortunate to have such a beastie over here, called albesia.
Unfortunately, the density can vary considerably between planks, so I have to continually measure the density and tune the construction accordingly. But by keeping records, I will be able to slicken up this process.
Jamie, I get your point. Testing for such would be difficult, so I guess we will just have to use good old common sense.
Posted 09 April 2009 - 09:20 AM
I may still have a bait or two in the garage thats busted and I will show some pics of the damage. Its just in some waters you never know what you are hooking up with. The state record musky at one time was held by an older woman who was trout fishing with power bait, go figure. It just goes to show you every cast ,anythingcan happen and any fish in the water could be on it.
Edited by jamie, 09 April 2009 - 09:23 AM.
Posted 09 April 2009 - 12:17 PM
john what is the product CA that you refer to in your post:?
Posted 20 October 2009 - 12:16 AM
CA is just super glue. We use it on wood reel seats Rod building.
Posted 20 October 2009 - 03:49 AM
I second that, you'll have to pay me good money to use super glue for screw eyes and sealer, it's a mess when it comes in contact with water. Used to seal and mount screw eyes with super glue, man I was so happy to see how it hardens the wood until one day when I was testing an unpainted lure, the surface of the lure got white and the screw eyes got out easily when I pulled them with my fingers. I'm not going back to that moment Of course you won't get there until the water breaks through the topcoat and paint, but for me it's riscky. Maybe CA Glue in USA has better quality
Propionate or fast curing epoxy mixed with acetone will harden the balsa too
As for screw eyes vs thru wire :
balsa - thru wire
basswood ( "tei" in Romania same familly and density) - screw eyes for small fish lures
- thru wire for catfish and pike
Anyway all methods will work if you are confident in using them, it's just a matter of precaution(usually time consuming)
Edited by pikeman, 20 October 2009 - 03:55 AM.
Posted 20 October 2009 - 09:50 AM
Guys a lot of good information :yes:about hook hangers in balsa. I use twisted wire but leave about 3/8 of an inch at the end of the wire and bend one wire back a little less than 180 degrees. When you try to pull it the wire that is bent back a little less than 180 degrees bites into the wood adding additional strength. CA or epoxy seems to hold well. I have also tried using a 3/16 inch diameter dowel as an insert in the balsa then drill the hole for the wire, it to will work. I have taken vice grips and also pulled on the wire and can't remove it. Just a few more ideas to add to the pot .
Posted 22 October 2009 - 07:58 AM
How do you make that loose barrel twist? It looks like it was made in a machine.