Jump to content
Lip Glue Messy
6 replies to this topic
Posted 02 April 2009 - 07:05 PM
When I glue my lips into place the glue (5 min epoxy) runs, Ive tried waiting for it to set up a bit before I use it so it's not so drippy but I still manage to get lots on the lip and the sides of the baits. I find I can sand the glue off the baits easy enough but is there a way to get the epoxy off the lip once it has cured. I know u can use Naptha before it cures but what about after it cures
You may have a suggestion on how you install your lips on your crankbaits
Thanks in Advance
Posted 02 April 2009 - 07:33 PM
I keep a rag wet with denature alcohol and use 5 min epoxy sparingly The alcohol will get finger prints and small gobs of glue off bill and body but you'll have to seal your bait with clear lacquer or the paint will wash off too if u uae createx or other water based painted
Posted 03 April 2009 - 01:55 AM
Nothing but a chisel will remove cured epoxy from a lip. And if you use 5 min epoxy and get it on the lip, it WILL eventually turn brown. The trick is mounting the lip so that none squeezes out on the lip surface. Fill the lip slot with epoxy using a piece of wire, making sure all slot surfaces are wet with epoxy. Wipe the exterior of the slot clean with a dry cloth and then insert the dry lip (no epoxy on it). All excess epoxy gets pushed out the sides at the rear of the lip. If you butter the lip with epoxy some of it will always get pushed out onto the lip's surface. No worry if there is a small void between the slot and lip at the nose of the bait. The clearcoat fills that. I cut a couple of slots in the back of the lip to strengthen the glue joint against side impact.
Edited by BobP, 03 April 2009 - 01:57 AM.
Posted 03 April 2009 - 06:33 AM
That's what I was doing wrong, I was putting epoxy on the lip as well as the slot, making an awful mess
I was worried about the gap along the sides as the epoxy settled into it, but now I see how the clear coat would fill that up
Posted 04 April 2009 - 06:26 AM
Another good suggestion is to drill small holes through the back of the lip so the epoxy on the top creates a 'core' with the epoxy on the bottom of the slot.
If you look at most commercially made baits there is always excess epoxy on the lip, both top and bottom. Whether this actually adds strength is debatable (the epoxy is attached to paint) but the core holes most certainly increases its strength of the lip. For lips with line tie wires through their centers, the need for addtional strength is obviously paramount. Also few companies take the time to backfill the sides of the slot once the lip has been set in place. This is particularly important with lexan where the notch is even wider.
Has anyone noticed the difference between 5 minute epoxy and regular 2 ton epoxy? My experiences with 5 minutes have not been all that good. In fact, I only use 5 minute when designing test baits in the event I want to remove the lip later on.
Posted 04 April 2009 - 08:28 AM
Haven't been able to find 2ton here in Sudbury Ontario but the 5 min. stuff I found is very strong.
If using screw eyes and once set snd cured there is no way I can remove them, with a pair of vice grips I twist and the shank breaks the screw eyes are
i 5/16" long
Like the lip info by the way:worship:
Posted 05 April 2009 - 03:45 AM
Birdman, I have recently changed brands, sometimes I use 5 min for tacking weights in etc, and am finding it's very strong, compared to the crap I was using for years, biggest problem is getting it in before it starts to cure.pete