ROWINGADUBAY

Is this right ???

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I've been reading a lot on painting wood lures and want to know if I have compatable paint/ sealer.It seems alot of people have problems with clear coats ruining the paint job .From what I've read it sounds like the dn would be the easier than epoxy since there is no mixing.I've also read good things about model paints such as testors but what type of clear would you use with the enamal paint.

Thanks for your help. you guys save me a lot of time and cash

1. dip in a coat of dn to seal the wood from toothy fish

2.paint a white base coat of createx to make the next color true.

3.heat cure

4.paint the lure a pattern with createx

5.heat cure

6.dip in dn for a high gloss finish

7.let dry.

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Sniffer, I've done quite a few baits like you list and it works fine. However, I think DN makes for a pretty thin seal coat so prefer either 5-8 dips of propionate dissolved in acetone or brushing on D2T thinned down with denatured alcohol. I also like Polytranspar Superhide White as a color basecoat vs other acrylic latex whites. It bonds well, covers grain better, and dries quickly to a hard dry surface with a hair dryer.

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Thanks for your help!!! What is propionate and can I disolve a bunch of it and store it for later use ?Is there anyway I can get it to the consistancy of devcon so I can do less coats or is 5- 8 coats the way to go? I have some Questions on D2T but I'll do a search first.

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BobP,

just curious where you get the proprionate. I did a search but got all kinds of other stuff. Just curious. Maybe I don't understand what I'm looking for. I was hoping this would save some time on my sealing and possibly my clearing after the paint. Thanks in advance and sorry about the hijack.

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For propionate, check with TU'ers Palmetto Balsa or Swede. It comes in small pellets which you dissolve in acetone. A little prop goes a long way. I put about a table spoon's worth in 12 oz of acetone and it dissolves in about 24 hrs. You want the solution quite thin. That avoids bubbles and lets it drip quickly off the end of the bait. It dries as fast as the acetone takes to evaporate, which is very quick, 3-5 minutes. Dip the bait and let it drip off the tail back into the jar, then hang to dry. If I'm doing a batch of 5 baits, #1 is usually ready for another dip by the time I dip #5. You may need to blot a few hanging drips off the tails. Add more pellets or more acetone as needed, no need to get too exact about measuring it out. After 2-3 dips, check to see if any light sanding is needed to remove any bubbles, then finish dipping 3-5 more times. When finished, let the prop dry and harden for a few hours before painting.

Prop is hard and somewhat flexible but doesn't adhere well to lip materials and acetone clouds Lexan, so I don't want the final lips installed when dipping. I install "false lips" into the baits' lip slots first. These are simply pieces of Lexan or circuit board inserted temporarily while undercoating and painting so you don't screw up the real lips and don't get anything weaker in the lip slots than the epoxy you will use to install the real lips later. They're handy to clamp onto with locking forceps while finishing a bait. Put some blue painter's tape on them to get a friction fit in the lip slot if needed. I drill holes in the false lips and hang baits by bent wire hangers over my workbench. Use a razor blade to free the false lips from the baits and trim excess prop from around the nose of the bait before painting. Anyway, that's how I do it and why.

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