joeb47130

Best spray on clear coat????

18 posts in this topic

I am sure this has been asked before but I can't seem to find it. Can anyone tell me what the best type of spray on clear coat would be for crank-baits and topwater plugs? I have been using Krylon Crystal Clear. It seems to do a decent job but the lures still have that paint smell. Thanks.

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Not sure what you mean by "clearing". I am just spraying it, let dry, spray again, for five or six coats. It looks pretty good but the baits smell like fresh paint. I should have mentioned that I also have an airbrush, so if you have any other ideas please let me know.

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I use the Krylon spray too on plastic baits. Probably wouldnt work as well on wooden lures. But the paint smell disipates after a couple days, and if you use the lure the smell goes away. My friends use my lures, have had no problems, and catch fish. I've tested this method for over 2 years.

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Almost any spray on clear will hold up pretty well if you're coating plastic cranks.

The real challenge for any clear is on wooden baits.

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Your correct Mark. (from my experience) Also, I have never had a problem with yellowing....yet. The only time I've had a 'Krylon' top coat chip is when I cast my lure and hit a rock on the bank. (If the fish were there we would see them) :huh:

I have used other spraycan topcoats besides Krylon. Just be sure you buy a reputable brand.

I dont understand why some guys use 'epoxy' to coat plastics. Seems to me the weight of the topcoat would effect lure action, sink rate, etc. Manufactures put a lot of time testing the design, weight, hooks etc. on a lure. I just scuff, paint, and topcoat. Maybe someone could enlighten me.

I'm sure topcoating wood is a whole different ballgame. Wood needs to be sanded and sealed.

Almost any spray on clear will hold up pretty well if you're coating plastic cranks.

The real challenge for any clear is on wooden baits.

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You cannot beat the magnetic wallet pulling powers af a deep multi-coat finish of epoxy. Just go to the gallery and have a look at Fatfingers work (he usually includes a close up pic). You just cannot achieve this kind of aesthetics with a spray on top coat, from what I have seen so far.

Of couse, you could argue that once the lures are in the water, such effects are cancelled out and the fish don't care, but I know which one I would reach for in the store.

Yes, a heavy top coat does have a damping effect, if you add it to a lure that was designed to have a thin coat. But if the lure is correctly designed for the heavy top coat, it can still have a very lively action.

If you want maximum action, then balsa, ballasted at the CoG, a wide scoop lip under the nose, a thin top coat and small hooks. But a 90 deg 'X'ing pattern is not the most realistic of actions, but I'm sure that it too will catch fish on its day.

To design a lure, you first decide what you want it to do in the water and what you want it to look like on the shelf. Then you choose your materials and carve away. Then you test and adjust over and over, until you get what you want. Many just build the lure and accept what the lure god gives them, but you can have more, you just gotta search for it.

Dave

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I cant disagree with ya Vodka. The epoxy topcoat gives an awesome depth to the lure colors. If I could find a simple sprayon that would give me the same effect, I'd definately give it a shot.

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I have used the Krylon and it looks great but I had trouble with lures touching one another in the box.They would have indentions from contact with another lure or just the box.Antone had this trouble?Hope I didn't hijack the thread....Rob

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I have used the Krylon and it looks great but I had trouble with lures touching one another in the box.They would have indentions from contact with another lure or just the box.Antone had this trouble?Hope I didn't hijack the thread....Rob

I haven't run into this problem. I even left my tackle bag and lures in my trunk on a couple occasions last summer. How many topcoats did you give the lures?

Dont worry about 'hijacking' the more people that comment, the more we all learn.

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guy be very carefull of rattle can TOP COATS they are nice and fast and well they do work fine for guys like me who just cant wait to try the new paint job out. But when it come to storing the lures make sure to keep the plastice worms AWAY FAR AWAY. their is some thing in the plastic that will re-activate to top coat and in most cases ruin your work. I have been lucky since I was able to save mine.

I have not tried the 2ton stuff and to tell you the truth from all I read it just takes to long. But from all I have read it seems like expoy is the way to go.

Any one know what type of top coat that norman uses on its lures like the dd-22, it looks like a gel coat but i'm not sure.

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From my experience, ANY clear that is not catalized will never dry really hard....they will always remain soft to some degree...some brands do dry harder than others....i've used cases upon cases of rattle can clears over the years on license tags and little league ball helmets after airbrushing some kids name on it first.....and found U-pol to be one of the toughest non-catalized clears i've ever run across. Unfortunately it costs alot more than something like Krylon but thats probably why....it drys harder and holds up alot better to abuse....still yet, don't expect it to do what a catalized clear would do.

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Thanks for the info Kingfisher! I would try an epoxy,gel, or some of the other topcoats I've read about on here, but I cant handle the toxicity of the products. I'm not in a 'well ventilated' environment.

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I have had no problems with a non-ventilated area with Devcon 2-ton. I have even used it in the house and my wife doesn't even throw a fit.:lol:

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