Thad

For you that dip DN

11 posts in this topic

I'm not sure it matters as long as it's deep enough and has a good airtight lid. I use 16 oz salsa jars with the fluted necks. They have an opening just wide enough for the largest baits I dip and their lids seem to clamp down better than some (but I still store it with heavy tin foil over the lid, secured with a rubber band). If you are a hobbiest and use DN slowly, it will nevertheless begin to cure when the level drops below 1/2, I guess because the air space in the jar gets too large. I avoid that by topping off the jar as needed and/or spraying Bloxygen gas into the jar before I close it. The bottom line is that you need to limit the DN-to-air contact area and the length of time it is exposed. How you get there is up to you.

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I use a skinny jar like olives come in and keep the lid tight and cover with foil. Just put enough in to cover baits. Keep the rest sealed in the original can and use the hole in the can method to decant.. Been using the same qt. for 6mos.

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Make sure the jar you use has a good sealing lid, put the lid on tight then foil over the lid with a rubber band to hold it.

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Hanging baits is not only easier, it works better. If you dip baits and put them on a turner before enough DN has dripped off, the rotation can cause the DN to pool in one area and wrinkle the underlying acrylic. That doesn't happen if you just hang them up to dry, since any excess DN will drip off the tail.

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I don't use DN, and just thinking out loud..any of you guys try putting some co2 in bottle before you close it to help extend potlife in jar?

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Clemmy, since the point is to avoid moisture laden air in the storage container, I also thought CO2 might work since it is a dry gas and readily available. Someone replied that the O2 in CO2 would cause the DN to begin curing. I don't know whether that's true or not. Right now I'm introducing a little Bloxygen into my dipping container before sealing it. It's a mix of argon and nitrogen gas that is heavier than air so will sit on top of the DN's surface. It seems to be working OK but costs about $12 per rattle can and can be hard to get, so I don't consider it "ideal". I think argon/nitrogen is the same gas used by welders to shield welds from O2 during the welding process.

Bester, I don't use DN over lacquer but see no reason why it won't work like any other solvent based polyurethane. Once the lacquer is dry, it should behave OK. One way to find out.....

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