Jump to content
Thad

For you that dip DN

Recommended Posts

I'm not sure it matters as long as it's deep enough and has a good airtight lid. I use 16 oz salsa jars with the fluted necks. They have an opening just wide enough for the largest baits I dip and their lids seem to clamp down better than some (but I still store it with heavy tin foil over the lid, secured with a rubber band). If you are a hobbiest and use DN slowly, it will nevertheless begin to cure when the level drops below 1/2, I guess because the air space in the jar gets too large. I avoid that by topping off the jar as needed and/or spraying Bloxygen gas into the jar before I close it. The bottom line is that you need to limit the DN-to-air contact area and the length of time it is exposed. How you get there is up to you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use a skinny jar like olives come in and keep the lid tight and cover with foil. Just put enough in to cover baits. Keep the rest sealed in the original can and use the hole in the can method to decant.. Been using the same qt. for 6mos.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hanging baits is not only easier, it works better. If you dip baits and put them on a turner before enough DN has dripped off, the rotation can cause the DN to pool in one area and wrinkle the underlying acrylic. That doesn't happen if you just hang them up to dry, since any excess DN will drip off the tail.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Clemmy, since the point is to avoid moisture laden air in the storage container, I also thought CO2 might work since it is a dry gas and readily available. Someone replied that the O2 in CO2 would cause the DN to begin curing. I don't know whether that's true or not. Right now I'm introducing a little Bloxygen into my dipping container before sealing it. It's a mix of argon and nitrogen gas that is heavier than air so will sit on top of the DN's surface. It seems to be working OK but costs about $12 per rattle can and can be hard to get, so I don't consider it "ideal". I think argon/nitrogen is the same gas used by welders to shield welds from O2 during the welding process.

Bester, I don't use DN over lacquer but see no reason why it won't work like any other solvent based polyurethane. Once the lacquer is dry, it should behave OK. One way to find out.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...


×
×
  • Create New...
Top