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Clear Coating Swimbaits
32 replies to this topic
Posted 02 November 2009 - 12:08 PM
I couldn't figure out how to attach a photo. I take a piece of wire coat hanger about 12" long then about midway bend a spring loop about 1/2" in diameter. Like the mouth spreader in the cataloges. Then I bend detents on the ends to slip thru the eyes. You might have to do some additional bending so you can paint without getting your hands in the way.
Posted 02 November 2009 - 03:09 PM
That will work. Post #9 shows my bracket, post #20, when it is in place. I have two racks each with two horizontal rows. By tipping it forward or backward you can avoid dripping from the top row onto the bottom. I can rack and paint 36 lures at a time. That jig you see in Post 20, allows clamping of the netting for scales.
On a pillow, plastic bag of shredded paper, I can put the jig back towards me, belly away and hold up the template for parr marks and shoot that way. You see the result in post 19, click on the thumbnail, you can see the parr mark fades and blends away at the anterior edge of it by doing that way.
Everyone on TU is ingenious and that is how I came up with my ideas, I read everybody elses' post for inspiration. To each what ever works. It is fun to have these discussion among us.
Nevertheless, I really do not like painting lures. I think after I finish the shad patterns I am going to sell all this new equipement and stay with soft plastics. Having that attitude is why I am surprised I did half way decent on making that perch you see above, there.
Edited by Piscivorous Pike, 02 November 2009 - 03:26 PM.
Posted 02 November 2009 - 06:19 PM
I hate to spend money on commercial products since I usually modify them to my specific requirements anyway.
Posted 26 June 2016 - 02:10 AM
One thing that helps protecting the moving parts of your swim baits wether it's a hinged or strap model is to use ear plugs. Cut and trim down to the size required if needed. Pinch down and slide into the joint on both sides. As the ear plugs expand they fill the join. Helps stiffen the baits making easier to paint. I usually make a wrap or two with thread to keep the ear plug where I want. Anybody else try this?
Posted 27 June 2016 - 05:30 AM
Although this is and old thread, I had a glitch once before and brought one back to by accident. I thought it was a new thread.
I'm painting some swimsuits soon. That's a innovative way to hold the bait straight. However I'm leaning towards painting inside the joints. This is what I'm going to try. I'm going to pull them straight, similar to what has been mentioned. Then I'm going to try vasoline on the joints. After I'm complete, I'm just going to clean it up and I hope all will be well. Yeah I know a little more work, but as I have found out over the years "It's all in the details".
My baits has two joints in them. If they had one joint I would use the rubber band technique.
Posted 27 June 2016 - 06:42 AM
I would not use the Vaseline based on my experiences with foamies and then all the soft plastic molds I have made. Vaseline is also frequently used by some to help remove dried road paint from vehicles, finger nail polish, paint off of leather, spray paint off hands, etc... (all with varying degrees of success).
Forget the time/trouble to clean it up..... the likely failure of your clear coat/paint at the joint in the end is the big issue. Just trying to remove the Vaseline will damage your paint job some paints better than others. as is, now add a solvent (as only way you will remove the petroleum based product) and gets even worse. Likely you will leave a residue when you are all done and applying a clear coat that can't bond in these areas only leads to one thing. If this isn't a wood bait then wouldn't be as worried as the failure wont hurt the bait.
Posted 27 June 2016 - 11:03 AM
I'd stay away from Vaseline Dale for the same reasons Travis mentioned.
If you want something to cover the joints with try liquid frisket. It's a latex product that dries fairly quickly and can be rubbed off without the use of any solvents. It's designed to be used for keeping paint away from areas where paint is not intended to go.
You might search some of my old posts. There's one of a swimbait holder (pics included) I made out of a wooden clothes hanger, some eye screws and a couple rubber bands. It held the bait straight and steady.
p.s. Found it for you. There's some good ideas posted by other members as well.
Edited by RayburnGuy, 27 June 2016 - 11:12 AM.
Posted 27 June 2016 - 05:05 PM
As always Travis and Ben thank you. I didn't think that it would give someone that much trouble. Yes Travis the baits are wooden and about 8.75" long.
I have several helping hands but these won't hold this bait. So I was thinking about making some sort of a jig. I don't have to worry about that now. I have a few hangers from suits that are long gone, LOL won't fit! Innovative Ben, I like your thinking. I will put a base on them, but easy to move around on a table.
I really thought the gel would be a good idea. If you two say no then it's notta.
I miss another terminology, I stated two joints, it should be two hinges in a joint. Honestly I think I over engineered using two hinges. But a good size musky can put some pressure/stress in that area.
Posted 06 July 2016 - 11:05 PM
I designed a very flexible lure turner and lure holder system that handles swimbaits well. For swimbaits I use alligator clips mounted on cheap plastic paintbrush handles. Insert them into the foam in whatever place you need to stretch out the bait. Put them on hook hangers also for added support. The foam holds more weight than you would imagine.
Posted 08 July 2016 - 10:54 AM
The main benefit of using two hinges per joint, aside from doubled strength, is that the sections can't roll.
Posted 08 July 2016 - 05:20 PM
I'm working on the ones that will be for fishing tomorrow morning. I'm going to stay with the double hinge then. It did well so I'm going with it since I believe I got it right now.