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etex vs. D2T... the fight continues!
25 replies to this topic
Posted 11 May 2009 - 06:43 AM
I have different uses for epoxies, but I mix them using the same manual technique, which is similar to Husky's motorized method. I mix on an aerosol can bottom with a rounded piece of wire that roughly corresponds to the curve of the mixing surface. Move wire into the epoxy and keep it there while rapidly mising with both back and forth and round and round motions, keeping the wire in contact with can bottom for a squeegee action which will leave no epoxy unmixed; and by keeping the wire immersed in the epoxy, one is not constantly introducing air into the mix which cuts WAY DOWN on the bubbles. The few bubbles you may have are then easily eliminated by exhaling a bit of CO2 on them. With a little practice of this method, you'll completely eliminate incomplete mixes, and be amazed how few bubbles you create while thoroughly mixing any epoxy.
Hey Skeeter! Good to hear from you! You know the reason you don't get any complaints is that they are all SCARED to complain, afraid you'll DEVCON them to some deep offshore boulders!
Posted 11 May 2009 - 12:22 PM
Since Wally World pulled the plug on Cheap D2T, Only true loyalists to the product will continue to stick with it. The best Internet price is $13.95 PLUS shipping for 9 oz. HD has a similar product to Etex for $21 for 32 oz. Big plugs suck up a lot of TC, so, again, for many builders D2T has become cost prohibitive.
I found that the use of a "J" hook wire in a drill will help immensely in solving any mixing problems that some experience with Etex.
Posted 11 May 2009 - 12:48 PM
I wouldn't know about mixing large amounts of epoxy, but I use a wire for mixing my batches, too.
I only coat 4 baits max. at a time, and then mix another batch. My wheel holds eight baits at two different levels, so I put on the inner set of four, coat them, and then put on four more on the outside, and coat them.
I mix my Etex and Nu Lustre in salsa cups, with a paper clip. I leave the bend in the paper clip, straighten out the middle so it's longer, and use the smaller end for the mixing. Afterward I tap it hard against the side of the cup, and any epoxy on it comes off. Mostly.
I mix, at the most, 6ccs of epoxy, and I mix it by hand for a minute at the most. Then I let it sit for a couple of minutes to let any air bubbles rise, and to let any unmixed epoxy get absorbed and mixed. If I need to, I blow on the epoxy and roll it around in the cup to get most of the bubbles out.
Brushing it onto the bait usually takes care of the rest. In fact, I find that, if I'm not careful, brushing, even with a small,fine artists bristle brush, will make some fine bubbles by itself, and I check the baits after I coat them to be sure those "scum" bubbles are gone. If they remain, I rebrush those areas, making sure they disappear.
I do check on the baits after half an hour on the drying wheel, just to be sure I catch any sags, build-ups, bare spots, or bubbles that might have developed.
One problem I've run into is air bubbles that come out from under the stick-on eyes. I found that they are much more likely if I hit the bait with the hair dryer after it's coated, so I stopped doing that, unless it's really cold and won't brush out right.
Fatfingers, you'll a trouble maker.
Husky, have you tried Minwax Wood Hardener, or the other hardener Snax prefers, for sealing baits?
It's designed to penetrate, and it does, really well.
I do very few wood baits now, since I made the switch to PVC, but I still like pine for big surface gliders, like the Lunker Punker.
You have to let it air dry for at least a day, to be sure all the solvent is gone, and it's best to hit it with a hair dryer after that, to be sure. If there's trapped solvent, it'll bubble out under the heat of the dryer, especially from any end grain. Better to have it bubble before any paint goes on. Once the bubble come out, let it sit another day and check it again with the dryer.
I did a test, and, once I'd sealed a test piece of wood (pine), I let it dry, and then weighed it on my Weight Watchers scale, which measures in grams. Then I soaked it in water overnight, and reweighed it. The weight was exactly the same, to the gram, so I know it didn't absorb enough water to matter, or to ruin a bait in case the top coat failed.
The hardener is readily available at Home Depot, and isn't that expensive. Plus it goes a long way.
I predrill all my hardware and ballast holes, even if I don't wind up using all of them. That way I know the hardener has penetrated everywhere water might get.
I start out soaking the bait pieces for 10 minutes, but I'll soak it longer if I see it's still chasing air out by the bubbles that come out of the end grain. I use a glass pickle bottle to soak them in.
It has ended the dreaded "delamination due to water intrusion" problem for me.
Edited by mark poulson, 11 May 2009 - 01:03 PM.
Posted 11 May 2009 - 04:22 PM
I too have been staying away from wood. Most of my baits are cast resin, these days. Arthritis and laziness:) have led me to this path. I'd rather concentrate on making one really good model and pouring facsimiles.
Posted 11 May 2009 - 04:54 PM
But don't you miss the numb hands, aching shoulders, stiff and sore back, stiff and sore knees, and blowing your sinuses out every night?
Man, if I had known this is what growing up is all about, I never would have done it!
Where is that damn Tinkerbell when you need her??