Aluminium epoxy eyes & other options
17 replies to this topic
Posted 07 May 2009 - 11:19 AM
G’day all from Aus
If I require epoxy eyes for any of the lures I make, this is a method that I have found easy to do with just about unlimited colour options available at next to no cost, other then the initial outlay for some of the tools, that’s if you don’t already have them + the cost of the 2 part epoxy, having said that if you have the eyes already punched out with pupil attached you can use your excess 2 part epoxy from coating lures instead of wasting it, same with sealing rattle eye chambers, more on that later!
First of all it requires the use of empty Aluminium soft drink cans, beer & spirit cans (no this doesn’t mean you drink twice as much alcohol to obtain empty cans or the colours you like), the cans are easy to obtain & are easy to work with, the Aluminium is thin & isn’t hard on your tools + they come in about every colour scheme including chromes & other combinations you can think of. As a result, I think colour combinations would readily suit individual tastes for lure makers from all stages of lure making from beginners to the experienced.
First I use a can opener to remove the lid from the Aluminium can, I then use the scissors to cut down the side of the can & around the base of the can until you have the flat sheet (retain the base, it’s a bit thicker than the sides & can be used to seal eye rattle cavities on bigger lures-more on that later! Take care as the Aluminium is thin, sharp & cuts easily if you are not careful.
In Australia you can buy a set of Wad punches from Super Cheap auto shops for about 16 dollars a set “should suit you Hazmail”, it contains 15 different sized Wad punches, which would suit most eye sizes for lures including small flies & or you can purchase individual sized Wad punches from most tool shops, hard ware shops etc, they are generally a lot better quality, however a lot more expensive. On that note the cheaper Wad punches are fine, as the Aluminium & or adhesive tape wont damage the Wad punch.
Place the selected colour of flat Aluminium on a plastic bread board or similar, select the size Wad punch (external eye size) you want & use hammer to punch out the Aluminium eyes.
Don’t use your missus bread board it really p-sses them off & you quickly lose brownie points, warning issued, ignore at own risk!!
What will occur after the Aluminium is punched out is the Aluminium will end up with a concave side & a convex side, either side can be used depending on how you secure your eyes to your lures. As the colours are only on one side of the Aluminium can you will soon work out which way you have to punch the eyes out to suit your needs eg colour on the hollow side or the hill side.
I then use the adhesive tape that sign writers use with the backing on it, I use a smaller Wad punch & the plastic bread board or similar to punch out a heap of pupils, generally black is the most suitable colour for pupils but again it depends on individual choice or you can use multiple colours of you like.
Remove the backing from the adhesive tape & attach the pupils to the Aluminium eye you have punched out, either concave side or convex side depending on what spins your wheels, the pupil can be attached in the middle & or towards the side of the Aluminium, once again its up to the individual choice.
I then lie a heap of the eyes with the pupils attached & place on a flat surface & mix clear two part epoxy (I use Mega poxy, its an Industrial epoxy used in the building trade, similar to 24 hr epoxy). A small eye of approximately 10 mm in diameter would only require about three drops to cover the area, sealing the adhesive tape & aluminium + it will give it the raised optical curve, the more you add the more raised it would become until it would eventually flow over the side (which you don’t want to do). If you are filling in the side that is hollowed out it is a lot easier, as the outside rim tends to hold the epoxy to the desired height & stops it overflowing. If you are using the hill side a lot more care is required to avoid the epoxy over flowing & coming into contact with the flat surface you are working on, causing a mess & sticking the eye to the work area, either way if you take your time its relatively quick & easy, don’t play with them, leave them to cure properly.
I have found it easier to make a heap of the eyes at once & also make different colours/chromes etc, let them cure & you have them when you need them & choose the eye colour to suit your lures paint scheme. Sizes can be made to suit your own need. I have some Wad punches that are 25 mm which I use for large Blue water lures through to small sizes which I use on small lures or flies.
How you attach the eyes to your lure will depend on each person’s method of lure making, I generally only use the epoxy eyes with lures that I have included rattles inside the eye socket.
To make the eye socket I drill a hole through the lure for a rattle, the size depends on the lure being made, biro/pen casings are ideal for smaller lures (about 10 mm hole), the cavity is sealed using the base of the can (it’s a bit thicker & again punched out with a Wad punch). I suppose to make this easier to understand in this instance I would drill a 10 mm hole through the lure where I intended to place the eyes. Glue 10 mm plastic tube in the hole, in this case biro/pen casing, once the glue is cured I would slightly recess the 10 mm tube below the surface of the timber & seal the 10 mm tube with the Aluminium punched out of the base of the can. I use epoxy that is just starting to cure to stop it running everywhere. Once the glue cures I will insert the desired bearing & seal the other side, when completed the lure can be dipped in Methylated Spirits which will raise the timber grain slightly, sand with very fine finishing paper which will improve the finish on your lures. Seal & spray lure with your own technique & either secure eyes in place which effectively provides a second cover over rattle area (eye socket) & or glue them in after the lure is complete, once again this is up to the individual & the method used to make your lures.
The bonus of Wad punches is they can be used to punch out different coloured adhesive tapes for flat eyes if you don’t require epoxy eyes, you can also use clear plastics for a more subtle epoxy eye.
Also if you use glitters on lures, you can use the Wad punches to punch out eyes from the clear plastic wrapping paper, these look awesome when used on glitter based lures & candy tone paints, the glitter shows through, but you have to epoxy the plastic eye to the lure, or at least that’s how I do it & once the epoxy dries I attach the pupil & then finish the lure off.
I also use the 25 mm Wad punch to punch out leather washers to use for drag washers when I service my reels, I have a variety of reels & to date I have found the 25 mm outside diameter is a perfect fit for all of my drag systems, I use one of the smaller Wad punches to punch out the inside diameter where the handle shaft is, they vary, however if you have a set of Wad punches one will suit most handle shafts, if not scissors will do the job, same applies here use a plastic bread board or similar to punch the washers out on.
Preferred tools required
Wad punches-various sizes to suit eye sizes required
Plastic bread board or similar
Hammer or similar
Adhesive tape/clear plastic wrapping
Clear two part epoxy (preferably slower curing, not 5 minute type)
Hope its easy to understand, cheers Balls.
Posted 08 May 2009 - 03:37 AM
thx that's very good info:yay:
would u add some photo about the process
Posted 08 May 2009 - 04:03 AM
Hey Balls -how they hanging .
Thanks for posting this, I can think of all sorts of uses for these cans, and those eyes should do the trick. Also thanks for the hint about the wad punches, I will fly down and get some when I get back home next week.pete
Posted 08 May 2009 - 04:33 AM
I make the eyes and rattle chambers in a similar way. For the eyes I use aluminium foil, thicker than the type for kitchen use, instead of aluminium cans, and for rattles I use metal tube which I close at both ends with thin metal sheet.
Try using super glue instead of epoxy to close the plastic tube for rattles with punched out aluminium discs. Easier, faster, cheaper. Once the discs are in place, you can add epoxy if you want, for improved strength.
Take care not to glue the BB to the chamber wall or to the aluminium discs.
Edited by rofish, 08 May 2009 - 04:35 AM.
Posted 08 May 2009 - 03:19 PM
Thanks for posting this, I like the idea of puttint the rattle behind the eyes, I will give that one a try.
Posted 09 May 2009 - 02:10 PM
Thanks a lot for posting your little tutorial , even I could easily follow;) !
greetz , diemai:yay:
Posted 14 May 2009 - 06:20 AM
There still hanging where they should be, I'm off to the NT Barra Classic tomorrow arvo & not back until the following Saturday (23rd), a week of tournament fishing on the Daly River chasing Barra, its hard to take but someone has to do it, ET fishes with me so you may have seen some of our previous tournaments that he filmed with us & went to air a couple of times.
Anyway on the photo side of things for Sinya, I'm useless with PC's & photos, if it suits you, when I return & get a chance I could make some of the parts, blanks etc & mail them over to you to photograph & load on the PC??, no dramas either way if you can’t. My wife upgraded her Kodak program on our PC & in the process we can no longer use the old program & she has no idea how to work the new one, needless to say giving advice that there was nothing wrong with the old program probably wouldn’t be a wise move on my part, not if I want them to stay hanging where they are.
On the Wad punches, I went to Super Cheap this morning for some other gear for the comp & they didn’t have the set of Wad punches in stock, but they get them in now & again, if they don’t have them in stock at your local Super Cheap let me know & I will check the part number for you, that way it would be easier to have them order a set in for you, they are handy for a variety of applications. I also picked up a small set from Bunning yesterday for $2.00, they were in the nail punch section, made in China with five or six sizes, only up to about 6 mm, ideal for pupils on various lures, but for $2.00 you can’t go wrong to punch out tape for the pupils & or just some spares if I damage the other ones.
Hopefully we can sort out some photos with Pete, if not let me know if I can explain the details a bit better.
I generally have a lot of lures all in different stages, so I don’t really have an issue with the epoxy, if I have some left over from gluing eyelets etc in I just use it as it goes off/tacky to either epoxy plastic tube in the eye cavity & or seal the eye chamber so its not wasted, just depends on what I am up to or what I need at the time. The plastic tube I use can vary from the 10 mm biro up to 38 mm electrical conduit for some of the bigger lures I make, so some times the diameter wouldn’t suit metal plus the plastic is easy to work & weight doesn’t come into it. Both the plastic & aluminum sealing part is pretty quick & easy once you’re used to it. I’ve had the odd bearing stick to the epoxy for whatever reason, in that instance it’s just a matter of removing the aluminium seal & replace it again. The epoxy is good for the strength, I live in the tropical part of Australia (Northern Territory) & one of the species I chase is Barramundi, they grow quite large, but Barra whether small or large are explosive on the strike & have the ability to destroy lures, straighten Owner hooks, split rings etc, to date I haven’t had any issues with the eyes covering the rattle cavity “yet”. I don’t use the rattle cavities or aluminium eyes on the Pelagics we chase like Spanish Mackerel & the other toothy critters up here, I use Holographic tape with a black pupil, 90% of the strikes from these fish are straight across the eye, I can’t remember the specific colour code but its silver & as you move it gives the appearance of the eye moves, either way the Pelagics love them, strategically set hook eyelet below the eye socket for high percentage hook up rate, thanks for the info, cheers Balls.
Posted 14 May 2009 - 06:41 AM
Balls - not a problem with the Pics, just get back to me when you return from fishing with what you want snapped.pete
Posted 30 June 2009 - 04:17 AM
I got this email from 'Balls' (Wayne) about a month ago, he was having problems posting anything and requested I post some pictures and text on how he makes eyes /rattles for his lures. As you can see they are pretty heavy duty owing to the types of fish and crocodiles they get up there (Northern Territory). Sorry for the delay, but I have been everywhere from fishing to funerals and as many would know it takes a while to get something like this together. All the lures pictured are 135mm
(5-1/2”) with the largest lip length of 2”.
I seem to be experiencing some problems submitting to the forum, keeps coming up message to short of characters?? Anyway can you give me your postal address & or a PO Box number & I will send a blank down that should make the eye socket rattle & epoxy eyes self explanatory to the bloke that requested photos when I submitted the original topic on aluminium & epoxy eyes. I have also included a couple of lures, one with epoxy eyes & one with plain eyes demonstrating some of the uses of the wad punches, don’t worry about the spray job, the lures are a plain Jane finish to highlight the eyes. I have also included a variety of epoxy eyes to give an idea of colours, but basically the colour scheme is only limited to the imagination & the size of wad punches members have access to. I have also included some of the different lead weights with wire inserts I use if I weight a lure + some jointed wire that may suit some of the jointed lures some of the forum members make, you can also weight both jointed wires if needed. If you can post some pics of what you think would be useful to the forum members & help others it would be appreciated. If you can get the address to me ASAP I will try & send it Thursday or Friday, otherwise I fly out to guide at Groote Eylandt on Saturday & not back until the 12th. Are you glued to the TV watching the State of Origin, go the Blues, cheers Balls.”
All you need is a set of wad punches or 'golf club handle' punches a ball point pen and a few balls of shot or some ball bearings.
Punch out your chosen color from a beer or soft drink can, place them together and coat with Etex or similar epoxy, glue the plastic tube into the eye position (I would suggest you drill this hole before the blank is sanded and is square, using a 'Forstner' bit) – paint your lure, place the ball /balls in the tube and glue the eyes over the ends (maybe 'super glue'), then it looks like Wayne just coats the lot with epoxy - with these thin aluminum ends (eyes) you get an easy solution to a loud high pitched rattle.
Posted 30 June 2009 - 04:51 AM
@ hazmail , @ Balls
Thanks for your "joint venture" posting these pics , .......very informative:yes: !
Love these lures and their paint jobs, indeed:yes: !
greetz:yay: , diemai
Posted 30 June 2009 - 10:07 AM
This is really cool Balls and Hazmail, lol I just started making my own eyes last night and it is very similar to this lol. I really like the idea for the rattle chamber also. Thanks for posting such a sweet tutorial:yay:.
Posted 30 June 2009 - 01:33 PM
If you use PVC for your lure making, you can just drill a 1/4" hole, counter sunk with a 5/16" and 3/8" holes. You don't have to line the hole, or use a metal tube.
I make sure the holes align by first drilling a small hole all the way through the lure blank, so they are in line.
Then I drill the 3/8" shallow, followed by the 5/16', again shallow, and then the 1/4", half depth, and all centered on the small pilot hole. Repeat from the other side.
Seal one end with a 5/16" disc. punched from an aluminum can (the end of an exacto knife works great for pushing the aluminum disc in) using brush on crazy glue, drop in a 1/4" sst ball bearing, and then seal the other end the same way. The brush on glue instead of the runny stuff will prevent the bearing from getting glued into place. Been there, done that.
Then put a 3/8" eye over each aluminum rattle cap and, voila, you're done.
Voila! I just love that word.
Posted 30 June 2009 - 05:40 PM
Yes, it's for a rattle.
I got so involved with describing it right, I forgot to say what it was.
Posted 09 March 2011 - 08:27 PM
Weighting lure option to utilize with previous technique
Firstly, sorry I donâ€™t have much opportunity to participate on the forum anymore, this is another addition that can be also utilised with the previous thread I posted (read previous post on aluminium epoxy eyes & other options), the addition is just another option available to weight lures using the wad punches & sheet lead, the same tools as the previous thread are all that you need.
Sheet lead comes in different thicknesses/gauges, sheet lead can easily be punched out to the desired diameter with a wad punch depending on what you are trying to achieve with your lure, the thickness/gauge used will also be the main factor in what you achieve, slow, medium, fast suspending/sinking etc . EG Big eye & light gauge sheet lead or you may decide you want a small eye & use heavy gauge sheet lead for the same result, combinations used allow for lures to be weighted for any option you want to achieve.
Your lure pattern/template should include a small diameter hole for your eye socket, the easiest way I find is to use your pattern/template to trace the outline of your lure on the timber/plastic board you intend to use, also marking the centre of the eye, prior to cutting your initial blank pre drill a small diameter hole in the centre of where you intend to place your eye. Basically you would now go through whatever process you follow until you have your lure shape finished, the finished shape will have the small diameter hole still visible on both sides of the lure, this gives you a method in which to accurately drill your eye weights out & make sure the balance is equally positioned.
I have drilled some before painting, I have also drilled some after painting, the main thing is to have a sharp speed bore/spade bit or whatever you call them in your local area, if you are selecting a 10 mm diameter sheet lead weight 2 mm thick, use a 10 mm sharp speed bore/spade bit. Depending on what you have chosen to do will determine the depth you drill. EG If you only wanted to place a 10 mm diameter weight in the eye socket using sheet lead that was 2 mm thick, you would use a 10 mm drill & drill just deep enough to insert/say 2.5 mm & glue the lead in place so it was just below the surface before bogging the hole, allowing to dry & then sand back to the original lure shape. After finishing the paint job I place my eyes directly over that spot when I have finished, basically this one would be a flush finished lure.
Another option I use is to drill slightly deeper, insert & glue the lead in place, spray the lure & then insert the epoxy eyes in place over the lead before sealing/final coating the lure.
There are a lot of other options you could use this application for if you want to experiment with it.
If anyone can explain an easy way to attach photos I will try & submit some, I would also include some other weight moulds I made out of alloy, method to twist wire & jig to spray lures on etc, cheers Balls.
Posted 10 March 2011 - 06:11 AM
Hi Balls, long time, no hear--a bit like me, I have been sidetracked lately and only made 3 lures this year!!!!!!!!!!!!
For uploading pictures, join "Photobucket" ( http://photobucket.com/ ) copy and paste your pictures onto your 'desk top', then go to 'photobucket' , click 'Upload' or if you have a few 'Bulk Upload' and it will ask you from where on your computer, scroll up to 'Desktop' or wherever you hide them , click 'Desktop' and it will load all your pictures from there (be patient),, once loaded, click on the pictures you want to upload, then click 'upload' and it will do the rest--go to your T.U post and type your message or whatever--- to add a picture go back to 'Photobucket', hover over the picture you want and click "IMG code" (it will say 'copied)-- go back to your masssage and right click then left click 'paste', the link will appear on your post, looking something like this:
When you click 'Add Reply' this link will automatically come up with your picture---you have to do this for every picture individually.
Sounds like tedium but really it only takes a few seconds for each picture,,,- once you get used to it.
Vodkaman showed me years back and I'm a 'Troglodyte'