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Aluminium epoxy eyes & other options

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Hey Balls -how they hanging :yay:.

Thanks for posting this, I can think of all sorts of uses for these cans, and those eyes should do the trick. Also thanks for the hint about the wad punches, I will fly down and get some when I get back home next week.pete

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Balls,

I make the eyes and rattle chambers in a similar way. For the eyes I use aluminium foil, thicker than the type for kitchen use, instead of aluminium cans, and for rattles I use metal tube which I close at both ends with thin metal sheet.

Try using super glue instead of epoxy to close the plastic tube for rattles with punched out aluminium discs. Easier, faster, cheaper. Once the discs are in place, you can add epoxy if you want, for improved strength.

Take care not to glue the BB to the chamber wall or to the aluminium discs.

Edited by rofish
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G'day Pete

There still hanging where they should be, I'm off to the NT Barra Classic tomorrow arvo & not back until the following Saturday (23rd), a week of tournament fishing on the Daly River chasing Barra, its hard to take but someone has to do it, ET fishes with me so you may have seen some of our previous tournaments that he filmed with us & went to air a couple of times.

Anyway on the photo side of things for Sinya, I'm useless with PC's & photos, if it suits you, when I return & get a chance I could make some of the parts, blanks etc & mail them over to you to photograph & load on the PC??, no dramas either way if you can

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I got this email from 'Balls' (Wayne) about a month ago, he was having problems posting anything and requested I post some pictures and text on how he makes eyes /rattles for his lures. As you can see they are pretty heavy duty owing to the types of fish and crocodiles they get up there (Northern Territory). Sorry for the delay, but I have been everywhere from fishing to funerals and as many would know it takes a while to get something like this together. All the lures pictured are 135mm

(5-1/2

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If you use PVC for your lure making, you can just drill a 1/4" hole, counter sunk with a 5/16" and 3/8" holes. You don't have to line the hole, or use a metal tube.

I make sure the holes align by first drilling a small hole all the way through the lure blank, so they are in line.

Then I drill the 3/8" shallow, followed by the 5/16', again shallow, and then the 1/4", half depth, and all centered on the small pilot hole. Repeat from the other side.

Seal one end with a 5/16" disc. punched from an aluminum can (the end of an exacto knife works great for pushing the aluminum disc in) using brush on crazy glue, drop in a 1/4" sst ball bearing, and then seal the other end the same way. The brush on glue instead of the runny stuff will prevent the bearing from getting glued into place. Been there, done that.

Then put a 3/8" eye over each aluminum rattle cap and, voila, you're done.

Voila! I just love that word. :lol:

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G’day all

Weighting lure option to utilize with previous technique

Firstly, sorry I don’t have much opportunity to participate on the forum anymore, this is another addition that can be also utilised with the previous thread I posted (read previous post on aluminium epoxy eyes & other options), the addition is just another option available to weight lures using the wad punches & sheet lead, the same tools as the previous thread are all that you need.

Sheet lead comes in different thicknesses/gauges, sheet lead can easily be punched out to the desired diameter with a wad punch depending on what you are trying to achieve with your lure, the thickness/gauge used will also be the main factor in what you achieve, slow, medium, fast suspending/sinking etc . EG Big eye & light gauge sheet lead or you may decide you want a small eye & use heavy gauge sheet lead for the same result, combinations used allow for lures to be weighted for any option you want to achieve.

Your lure pattern/template should include a small diameter hole for your eye socket, the easiest way I find is to use your pattern/template to trace the outline of your lure on the timber/plastic board you intend to use, also marking the centre of the eye, prior to cutting your initial blank pre drill a small diameter hole in the centre of where you intend to place your eye. Basically you would now go through whatever process you follow until you have your lure shape finished, the finished shape will have the small diameter hole still visible on both sides of the lure, this gives you a method in which to accurately drill your eye weights out & make sure the balance is equally positioned.

I have drilled some before painting, I have also drilled some after painting, the main thing is to have a sharp speed bore/spade bit or whatever you call them in your local area, if you are selecting a 10 mm diameter sheet lead weight 2 mm thick, use a 10 mm sharp speed bore/spade bit. Depending on what you have chosen to do will determine the depth you drill. EG If you only wanted to place a 10 mm diameter weight in the eye socket using sheet lead that was 2 mm thick, you would use a 10 mm drill & drill just deep enough to insert/say 2.5 mm & glue the lead in place so it was just below the surface before bogging the hole, allowing to dry & then sand back to the original lure shape. After finishing the paint job I place my eyes directly over that spot when I have finished, basically this one would be a flush finished lure.

Another option I use is to drill slightly deeper, insert & glue the lead in place, spray the lure & then insert the epoxy eyes in place over the lead before sealing/final coating the lure.

There are a lot of other options you could use this application for if you want to experiment with it.

If anyone can explain an easy way to attach photos I will try & submit some, I would also include some other weight moulds I made out of alloy, method to twist wire & jig to spray lures on etc, cheers Balls.

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G’day all

Weighting lure option to utilize with previous technique

Firstly, sorry I don’t have much opportunity to participate on the forum anymore, this is another addition that can be also utilised with the previous thread I posted (read previous post on aluminium epoxy eyes & other options), the addition is just another option available to weight lures using the wad punches & sheet lead, the same tools as the previous thread are all that you need.

Sheet lead comes in different thicknesses/gauges, sheet lead can easily be punched out to the desired diameter with a wad punch depending on what you are trying to achieve with your lure, the thickness/gauge used will also be the main factor in what you achieve, slow, medium, fast suspending/sinking etc . EG Big eye & light gauge sheet lead or you may decide you want a small eye & use heavy gauge sheet lead for the same result, combinations used allow for lures to be weighted for any option you want to achieve.

Your lure pattern/template should include a small diameter hole for your eye socket, the easiest way I find is to use your pattern/template to trace the outline of your lure on the timber/plastic board you intend to use, also marking the centre of the eye, prior to cutting your initial blank pre drill a small diameter hole in the centre of where you intend to place your eye. Basically you would now go through whatever process you follow until you have your lure shape finished, the finished shape will have the small diameter hole still visible on both sides of the lure, this gives you a method in which to accurately drill your eye weights out & make sure the balance is equally positioned.

I have drilled some before painting, I have also drilled some after painting, the main thing is to have a sharp speed bore/spade bit or whatever you call them in your local area, if you are selecting a 10 mm diameter sheet lead weight 2 mm thick, use a 10 mm sharp speed bore/spade bit. Depending on what you have chosen to do will determine the depth you drill. EG If you only wanted to place a 10 mm diameter weight in the eye socket using sheet lead that was 2 mm thick, you would use a 10 mm drill & drill just deep enough to insert/say 2.5 mm & glue the lead in place so it was just below the surface before bogging the hole, allowing to dry & then sand back to the original lure shape. After finishing the paint job I place my eyes directly over that spot when I have finished, basically this one would be a flush finished lure.

Another option I use is to drill slightly deeper, insert & glue the lead in place, spray the lure & then insert the epoxy eyes in place over the lead before sealing/final coating the lure.

There are a lot of other options you could use this application for if you want to experiment with it.

If anyone can explain an easy way to attach photos I will try & submit some, I would also include some other weight moulds I made out of alloy, method to twist wire & jig to spray lures on etc, cheers Balls.

Hi Balls, long time, no hear--a bit like me, I have been sidetracked lately and only made 3 lures this year!!!!!!!!!!!!

For uploading pictures, join "Photobucket" ( http://photobucket.com/ ) copy and paste your pictures onto your 'desk top', then go to 'photobucket' , click 'Upload' or if you have a few 'Bulk Upload' and it will ask you from where on your computer, scroll up to 'Desktop' or wherever you hide them , click 'Desktop' and it will load all your pictures from there (be patient),, once loaded, click on the pictures you want to upload, then click 'upload' and it will do the rest--go to your T.U post and type your message or whatever--- to add a picture go back to 'Photobucket', hover over the picture you want and click "IMG code" (it will say 'copied)-- go back to your masssage and right click then left click 'paste', the link will appear on your post, looking something like this:

http//i206.photobucket.com/albums/b290/hazmail/Socks.jpg

When you click 'Add Reply' this link will automatically come up with your picture---you have to do this for every picture individually.

Sounds like tedium but really it only takes a few seconds for each picture,,,- once you get used to it.

Vodkaman showed me years back and I'm a 'Troglodyte'

Pete

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