RickJames

Etex Problems.? Oily?

35 posts in this topic

Startin off saying THANKS to everyone, you all rock!

Ive been using D2ton and switched over to Etex. My finish seems to be oily when its cured. Ive let them sit for 3 days on the wheel and same results. When I touch them or rub them the finish gets cloudy.

This is my setup. Ive been very careful mixing.

-Syringes for rod building to measure etex.

-mixing with popsicle stick for 1-2min.

-mixing in NEW medicine cups.

-applying with a new flux brushes everytime.

-letting them turn on wheel for 12 hrs then sitting for 3days in 70 degree's.

any idea what I may be doing wrong??:? Thanks fellas. Rick

-

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Startin off saying THANKS to everyone, you all rock!

Ive been using D2ton and switched over to Etex. My finish seems to be oily when its cured. Ive let them sit for 3 days on the wheel and same results. When I touch them or rub them the finish gets cloudy.

This is my setup. Ive been very careful mixing.

-Syringes for rod building to measure etex.

-mixing with popsicle stick for 1-2min.

-mixing in NEW medicine cups.

-applying with a new flux brushes everytime.

-letting them turn on wheel for 12 hrs then sitting for 3days in 70 degree's.

any idea what I may be doing wrong??:? Thanks fellas. Rick

-

also, The finish is not sticky. Just slick feeling and a hazy look to it.

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After reading some other posts Ive noticed Im not the only one with this issue. Sounds like its a problem with the etex, not me? interesting... If so.. there goes another $25! lol

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It reads like you have been very clinical in your approach. So you could be correct, something wrong with your batch.

It does not seem right that you should lose out on the deal. Contact the supplier and complain. Maybe do another test first, just to make sure.

Dave

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I never mix my etex for less that 3 to 4 minutes. I think 1-2 minutes is probably insufficient and may be part of the problem. I would suspect that it might be not completely curing as a result. I'm surprised that your problem is not "sticky" spots on various parts of the baits.

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When a Belgian friend introduced me to Etex years ago , he had seriously advised me to stir it very well for some minutes and also stated , that I should not use up the entire remainder in the mixing bin's bottom .

greetz , diemai:yay:

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Thanks guys for the replies. Im going to try and take a decent picture of my lure and post it. To give you guys a better idea whats going on. I will try to mix another batch up,stirring no less than 4 or so minutes. I also emailed Etex about my situation. If anyone is interested, i will post the results on that aswell. Thank you, Rick:yay:

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Here in Europe, many have had this problem. And someone got an answer from etex, and they said that they had a problem batch.

Here, a swedish lurebuilder, introduced his own lureepoxy, which solved the problem for many of us over here. Its very similar to etex.

Both etex and this new epoxy, I usually stir for 7-9minutes. I dont use syringes (I used to) but my finish always seemed a little stickier when I did. This was medical syringes and could have had something in them contaminating the mixture. The C&W epoxy also has the weight ratio instruction, and weighing is soo much easier than mixing by volume, IMO.

My last etex lures are pretty well hardened now, 3-4 months after they were finished...

Michael

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I switched to E-tex and have only made up one batch,but I had the exact same problem.I only stirred mine for a couple minutes I will try longer next time .So far I

like D2T better.

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I switched to E-tex and have only made up one batch,but I had the exact same problem.I only stirred mine for a couple minutes I will try longer next time .So far I

like D2T better.

Thanks for the info guys.

I agree on the D2T. My lures had a flawless, hard finish. The only problem is I make alot of lures and D2T is starting to get expensive. Im trying a new batch right now. Ill post the results. Thanks, Rick

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Guys, I have said this before in other posts.

There has been (or is) a production problem with etex.

After applying and curing, the coat stays greasy (oily) and dull.

When I contacted the shop I bought it, after ruining some baits, it occurred there had been many complaints about etex lately. All the same problems, greasy and dull.

On the pic below you see what happens.

Left good etex, right bad etex.

I was told that the production company said there have been some issues concerning some production batches. If you have a "bad" package, the best you can do is mix the etex thouroughly and let it set for at least 5 minutes before applying. This way you have the best chances on a good result.

I'm not here to disgrace etex, I have used it with great results. I'm just telling my experiences and what I know about this problem.

Grtz Paul

Holland.

GroteFoto-PFV3ETXJ.jpg

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Guys, I have said this before in other posts.

There has been (or is) a production problem with etex.

After applying and curing, the coat stays greasy (oily) and dull.

When I contacted the shop I bought it, after ruining some baits, it occurred there had been many complaints about etex lately. All the same problems, greasy and dull.

On the pic below you see what happens.

Left good etex, right bad etex.

I was told that the production company said there have been some issues concerning some production batches. If you have a "bad" package, the best you can do is mix the etex thouroughly and let it set for at least 5 minutes before applying. This way you have the best chances on a good result.

I'm not here to disgrace etex, I have used it with great results. I'm just telling my experiences and what I know about this problem.

Grtz Paul

Holland.

GroteFoto-PFV3ETXJ.jpg

Thanks Paul. I did read your post somewhere else after i posted my question. My apologies. I did mix a batch up today stirring for 5min and letting it stand for around 10 min. Its seems that the finish is going to turn out ok. The only problem I had was the etex was setting up WAY to fast and it was like applying cement. I hit it with my heat gun and it loosened up enough to aply an even finish. Also, thanks for the picture, thats EXACTLY was my baits look like. Rick

ps. nice lookin lures too bud:yay:

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Here's something you might want to try;

Bend a loop in 1/16" steel wire, and cut it to the size of a drill bit. Now after carefully measuring the Etex, use the wire in a drill at a low speed to mix it for a minute or 2.

No contamination from a wood mixer and the blend will be complete and total, with hardly any air bubble. Let it sit, covered for about 10 - 15 minutes, (Thanks Fat Fingers) then apply.:twocents:

I used this method on a batch that was over 5 years old, and it set very nicely.

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Not true. 1-2 is fine. I have done a zillion baits to prove it.

Etex, in general, is pretty forgiving. This is probably bad batch.

I never mix my etex for less that 3 to 4 minutes. I think 1-2 minutes is probably insufficient and may be part of the problem. I would suspect that it might be not completely curing as a result. I'm surprised that your problem is not "sticky" spots on various parts of the baits.
Edited by jameso321

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Etex recommends 2 minutes of VIGOROUS mixing with its instructions. therefore, if you wish to split hairs, one minute of even vigorous mixing is probably insufficient. Note that I used the word 'probably' in my response, because when mixing for lure building a lot of guys do not like to mix the stuff too vigorously because it creates more micro bubbles in the stuff. Thus usually with less than "vigorous" mixing, at least 3 to 4 minutes would PROBABLY be in order.

Also kindly note that from what I read above, the author of the thread went back with apparently the same batch, mixed it longer and voila, problem solved.

Lastly, I'm not sure how one would describe etex as "forgiving." Fail to mix it properly or fail to mix it 50/50 and it will do anything but forgive you.

Sagging, fisheyes, a somewhat electrostatic dust-attracting charge when you first mix it (which tends to dissipate if you let is sit for about 10 minutes before application), and the need to torch the stuff to remove bubbles are among a number of the ways it could hardly be described as "forgiving".... and this board has a zillion questions about those problems to prove it. :lol::teef:

Edited by fatfingers

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Etex is a wonderful clearcoat and superior to D2ton in my opinion.

If you are measuring with syringes, stirring throroughly including the bottom and edges for a few minutes, and then applying, you should have no problems whatsoever.

I'm curious, is the unused portion in the dixie cup fully cured? If not in then it must be a bad batch. If so, then it is likely a result of something with the wood, the sealer, paint, etc.

I have done a ton of lures with etex and have yet to have the problem you are describing. If the problems continue, get another batch.

Jed V.

Edited by RiverMan

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I used to have issues with Etex, and I had been using syringes to accurately measure the 2 parts. When I QUIT using syringes I quit having problems. I tried 2 different versions from 2 different suppliers and I think that many syringes must have some form of ??? to lubricate them that caused issues with both fish eyes and setting up properly.

But the example of those two baits seems to be more than just setting up properly, but I would really eliminate use of syringes first.

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76gator,

I use the Flexcoat 3cc syringes (thanks BorderBass), and have no problems at all. I've read here that some other syringes use silicone as a lubricant, but the Flexcoat syringes are for epoxy, so they have no silicone.

I haven't had a problem batch since I started using the Flexcoat syringe system.

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That's the first I have heard about syringe problems, interesting. I buy mine at a local farm feed supply store and have never had a problem at all. They don't appear to have any lubrication on them though.

jed

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76gator,

I use the Flexcoat 3cc syringes (thanks BorderBass), and have no problems at all. I've read here that some other syringes use silicone as a lubricant, but the Flexcoat syringes are for epoxy, so they have no silicone.

I haven't had a problem batch since I started using the Flexcoat syringe system.

Thanks for the info Mark, I will give them a try because the ETEX does seem to be a little more demanding on the ratio of the mix and syringes seemed to be the way to go as I am usually doing a smaller volume.

And it may be the batch I got from Hobby Town were just faulty some how, but I certainly won't use them any more.

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Hey guys,

Well Ive never received a reply from Etex. So I purchaesd a new batch from a different store about an HOUR drive away from the previous one. I mixed/applied everything VERY carefully and I got the.....SAME RESULTS!:flame:...

So Im thinking its something Im doing on my end. Im going to start changing things one by one. Process of elimination. I mixed the etex on some tin foil today and not my usual medicine cups. Maybe the medicine cups have some type of oily film on them from the manufacturer? Im keeping my fingers crossed that this is the problem. Besides that, im clueless......:drool:....How annoying.....:mad:

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I'm sure it's something that you are doing. No offense. You said something that reminded me of a problem I had with D2T. The mixing cups. For some reason the epoxy would react with the plastic the cup was made out of. The Etex does not react with it but the D2T does. You said that the Etex was getting real thick if not hard in 10 minutes. That tells me something is reacting with it. Just a thought.

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I'm sure it's something that you are doing. No offense. You said something that reminded me of a problem I had with D2T. The mixing cups. For some reason the epoxy would react with the plastic the cup was made out of. The Etex does not react with it but the D2T does. You said that the Etex was getting real thick if not hard in 10 minutes. That tells me something is reacting with it. Just a thought.

No offense takin! I appreciate the reply.

Now that you said that, you have me thinking. Within 10 min it setup way to much to even try and spread it. Ive read TONS of posts on Etex on this site. I will usually search for my question before I ask it. More than one person alloIws there Etex to sit for 10 or so minutes before applying. Theres no way I could do that. I have a feelin its the medicine cups too.

Should 24 hrs be plenty enough time for the etex to set enough to handle the lure? Ive let my last lures sit for 2 days without touching them. As soon as it do, it fogs the clear coat and the "shine" is gone. leaving a oily slippery feeling on the lure and me hands.lol..jeez :rolleyes::drool:

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You should be able to handle it in 24 hrs. Of course that depends on the temperature were the bait is drying. If it is the cups or something else getting in the mix then you can't judge the outcome on the lure after it has been messed up. Try mixing it in the bottom of a pop can or something else. Also if your mix is off at all the baits will not set up. I was trying to get a batch to set up quicker once and put extra activator in thinking this would do the trick. It didn't, the clear coat never did set up. You said you were being careful with this though so I don't think that is the problem. Also it would make the batch not set up instead of setting up quick. Are you mixing it in Dixie cups with the wax coating on them? I think I read somewhere that that would'nt work. Also that would be the oily feeling working it's way out on the bait when it dries. Don't know just a thought.

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