JBlaze

Splitting PVC Trim Board With Razor Blade

8 posts in this topic

I supppose there may be an easier and better way to do this but here is how I do it. The first thing I do after sawing out a pattern is mark a center line all the way around the bait. After shaping and sanding the bait, I take an ordinary push pin and insert it along this line about every 1/16 of an inch until I have completly encircled the bait. I then stand the bait on its belly and insert the razor blade at the nose or tail and cut along the line. The razor just pops from hole to hole and it is much easier to stay on center with these tiny holes to guide you. I think another benefit of this is that the small grooves created by this makes for a stronger bait by giviing the epoxy something more to bind to. You can see the grooves created by the push pin in this photo.

Four Section Swimbait pictures by JBlaze1952 - Photobucket

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@ JBlaze

I haven't yet worked with PVC , but this surely is a very good idea for those , that do not have a bandsaw accessible:yes: .

Do you use a plain razorblade or one of those with a sheet metal covered egde , that acts as a kind of handle ?

Probably a spare blade of a carpet knife might do as well ?

Thanks for sharing , John:yes: , .....greetz , Dieter

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Dieter, I use the kind that has the sheet metal over one edge. Not sure but I think it may be called a safety razor. I had some box cutter blades which are stronger and thicker and they did not cut the PVC as easily as the razor blade.

John

Edited by JBlaze

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I use a Japanese pull saw. They have flexible blades and cut a really smooth line through the wood. The teeth on the saw are different from american and other saws because they stay inside the thickness of the saw. So, if you wanted to cut a 1" thick board in half long ways you can:

Drill 2 holes for pins in wood stock

make sure pins fit

remove pins

build a frame of 1/2 " thick wood for your 1" thick block to set in the center

then you can just run the saw along the top of the frame and cut it in half.

replace the pins to hold the 2 halves together and shape it.

The japanese saws are great because they dont cut wood that it slides against. Many wood workers use it to cut off glued dowels etc. so they dont dmg the wood around it.

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For laying in the hinge wires which are free formed to fit the bait. I put one side of a section on a sponge then position a hinge wire where I want it to be and using the edge of a 16 penny nail press down hard on the hinge wire and rub back and forth along the wire. this will leave a print of the wire on the pvc. I then use the dremel with a small bit to deepen the groove about half the thickness of the wire and its wraps If you make this groove to deep, you will not be able to get an impression on the other half. After doing this, I put a couple drops of super glue on the wire to hold it in place. Next place the other half of the segment on top of the first. Line up all the edges and press down firmly and you will get an impression for the other side. Again, do the same to this side with the dremel. Place it back on the first half and if you made your grooves deep enough the bait halves should fit nicely together with no gaps between them.

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@ JBlaze

I have done similar on some wooden crankbaits with internal wire harness . Made these out of halfround pinewood dowels , which I aligned flush with some three or four toothpicks to snugly fit through some crosswise bores .

I could not get the indentions of the wire deep enough by pressing the two halves together in a vise , so I also had to cut them out with my "Dremel" .

greetz , diemai:yay:

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What would we do without our Dremels? I am on my 5th one now. I think I bought my first one about 25 years ago.

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@ JBlaze

I'm actually using my third one ,..... I remember to have wasted my first by roughhandling it cutting out cavities in an aluminium lead casting mold , the main drive shaft got bent and the bearings wore out , couldn't use it anymore after !

greetz , diemai:yay:

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