Jump to content
12 replies to this topic
Posted 20 May 2009 - 02:58 PM
I have just orderd some envirotex light what is the best way to apply it and will it go on enamal paint?
Posted 20 May 2009 - 04:27 PM
As far as I'm aware, there's only one way to apply it - brushing it on. ETEX experts say it's best to let it sit for 10-15 minutes after mixing before you begin brushing. Then it must be put on a lure turner for several hours. Most ETEX'ers also use multiple coats. It requires more work than some other epoxies but does render a very nice end product.
Posted 20 May 2009 - 06:50 PM
No you cannot dry it that way. Heat makes the Etex VERY watery and it will just drip off of your lure. A drying wheel is a must.Good Luck!
Posted 21 May 2009 - 12:31 AM
Epoxy doesn't dry like paint - it cures. Mixing the hardener and resin causes a chemical reaction that eventually hardens it. Heat does acclerate the cure time somewhat but it still takes hours and hours, so shooting it with a hair dryer won't help. With ETEX specifically, it's fairly thin stuff so when you brush it on, you need to clamp it on a lure rotator immediately and leave it for a few hours to prevent drips and sags. With a thicker, faster epoxy like Devcon 2 Ton, it cures fast enough that it's possible to manually rotate the lure head/tail every couple of minutes for the first 45-60 mins, then hang it to cure fully for 24 hrs. But that's still a chore:(
BTW - check out today's post on "soft greasy ETEX". You need to mix it really well for 3-4 minutes. Other than a rare bad batch from the fatory, most bad epoxy finish is usually caused by inadequate mixing or measuring.
Posted 21 May 2009 - 02:56 PM
At the moment i dont have a drying wheel but i do have the envirotex now. Is there any way i can dry it and still get a good finish?
Posted 21 May 2009 - 04:39 PM
Not that I know of.
Epoxies don't dry, they set. The ones we use are two part, a resin and a hardener, and mixing the two sets off a chemical reaction that makes the resin's molecules link up and form a hard surface. Left separate, they say liquid.
We generally use one of two kinds of epoxy.
The first, Devcon 2 Ton 30 minute Epoxy, is actually a glue. It sets in about an hour, and is very hard after 8 hours.
The second is the decoupage epoxies, like Etex and Nu Lustre 55, meant to self level over larger surfaces, like bar tops and table tops. It stays runny for a long time, so it can level out. They need to turn at least 8 hours before they are stiff enough not to sag, and aren't fully set for 24 hours..
Any attempt to modify the proportions with decoupage epoxies, like adding more hardener, just ruins the mix, and they'll never set up.
There's a member here, Down River, who is actually an epoxy expert.
Do a search for his posts, and you can read what he says. He actually knows what he's talking about.
In a pinch, you can use a variable speed drill, with the trigger tied at a low speed, and turn you lure that way.
Or you can use Devcon 2 Ton 30 minute to coat your lure, and turn it by hand for an hour.
Posted 26 May 2009 - 06:55 PM
Etex does not require a spinner when you apply it and pull it thin. You hang and flip it a few times in the first hour. I apply with acid brush or 1" sponge brush. I have done this with hundreds or 2-3 oz large saltwater baits.
Posted 27 May 2009 - 12:22 AM
@ Pike catcher
I did the same like jameso321 stated , .......apply thin and switch hanging position periodically ,..........you will notice , when drips start to evolve on the bottom end , that it would be time to flip over .
Off course you'd achieve thinner coats this way , like you would utilizing a rotator .
Mix Etex thoroughly for some minutes , let set for a while before brushing on , possibly do not use up the last remainder at bottom of your mixing bin .
I do not use Etex anymore , I have found an epoxy from a German supplier , that sets quite fast , so not that much subject to dripping , only once or twice flipping over required ,....... since I never made it to build myself a drying wheel !
good luck , diemai:yay:
Posted 27 May 2009 - 12:29 AM
Here's a little tip for you. If your hell bent on getting the wifes hairdryer into your workshop . Wait until the Etex is in an advanced stage of curing then blow over with the dryer on a low heat setting this will lower the viscosity for a very short period of time and the effect is to 'super smooth' the surface . Only blow over for a few seconds though as you dont want to start drawing air up from the surface below if its wood.
Edited by philB, 27 May 2009 - 12:31 AM.
Posted 27 May 2009 - 06:12 AM
If you had seen drips, too much was applied especially near the ends.
Posted 27 May 2009 - 02:43 PM
Thanks for all your help guys i was just about to take our microwave apart a steel the motor from it.
Posted 29 May 2009 - 12:58 AM
Nice job on the microwave!
One last etex tip. Regarding the 50:50 ratio. It is better to use less hardener than more hardener. Less hardener will just take longer to cure. More hardener will never cure. Of course there are limits as to how far you can push the ratio, but I'm confident 60 Resin:40 Hardener will fully cure no problem.