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Musky crankbait question
5 replies to this topic
Posted 27 May 2009 - 09:07 AM
Hello all, I have dabbled here and there with some lure making on and off for years. I had a scroll saw and a small lathe, and bought some soft plastic molds and stuff for soft plastic. Years ago I made a few topwater prop baits and poppers for small mouth. Now that I have really got into musky fishing, I thought I would try to build some cranks and gliders. I just purchased a bunch of old woodworking equipment from a relative who gave up the hobby about a decade ago. I am really green with most of it. Here is what I got
Craftsman 12" Bandsaw - Sander model 113.243311
Delta 10 " Table saw model 34-670
Delta 12 " Planer model 22-540
Craftsman Jointer/planer model 149.236222
Black and Decker Drill Press model 9400
Delta scroll saw model 40-150
Craftsman router model 315317492
craftsman sander model 572.247600
Dremel motoshop 571-5
I have searched and read on here about lip slots. I have cut out a few jake/grandma style baits on the band saw. I got on here looking for info on the lip slot. I found out that I should have cut that before I cut out the lure. What would be the easiest way to cut them now? Does anyone have any plans for a jig for cutting them on the table saw for future use?
Posted 27 May 2009 - 09:24 AM
I use my scroll saw to cut my lip slots. If the are off a little then I square them up with a file.
Posted 27 May 2009 - 01:34 PM
Live and learn, huh? Been there, done that. You always want to cut the lip slot while the lure blank is still "square". If you can't figure a way of cutting it exactly straight now, make the slot extra big and then use 5 min epoxy putty to mount the lip. It's similar in density to hardwood and is very easy to use - pack the slot with putty, press in the lip, remove the excess, and smooth it out with a knife or finger. You can get the putty at most any home center. Works well and is easy to use. Also nice for covering ballast holes - just remember to smooth it out immediately and sand it (if required) before it gets really hard.
Edited by BobP, 27 May 2009 - 01:38 PM.
Posted 27 May 2009 - 05:22 PM
Your mentioned lure models have plane flanks almost all over their entire length(unless you haven't modified them with long tail ,-or nose tapers) .
So it should still be possible to lay them on their sides on the bandsaw's table and cut the lipslots 90° to flanks ?!?!
Pencil-mark with a ruler before accordingly to thickness of your lip material !
good luck , diemai:yay:
Edited by diemai, 27 May 2009 - 05:25 PM.
Posted 27 May 2009 - 05:33 PM
Go to the members tuts and look up petes tut on through wire construction. there is alot of good info on building a musky crank. It covers through wire and the lip cut with great pics as well as a walk through of the build.
Posted 27 May 2009 - 11:17 PM
I have used these 'bevel jaws' for quite a while for clamping two halves of a swim bait or through wire lure while the glue sets - this should also work to hold your lure if it has even tapered sides.
I just cut some reasonably thick aluminium angle and siliconed a piece of s/s rod in the middle of one angle - if you have an 'even' vertical and horizontal taper maybe a large ball bearing will work (haven't tried this).
As you can see from the pictures, it is easier to set up if you have the vice vertical, then you can just lay the jaws in the vice and slide the lure between the taper until it is snug, then tighten.
If you have to free hand the slot this will give you a solid hold - then try using 2 or 3 blades (side by side) in your hacksaw to give the right width lip slot, and like Bob says use some putty to fill any slop.pete