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Crankbait bodies out of old CD/DVDs!

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#21 sinyo



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Posted 01 June 2009 - 04:54 AM

@diemai: thx i'll try it...
right now I still thinking about alternative heat source...anyone have idea???
from kitchen tool maybe??:whistle:

#22 hazmail


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Posted 01 June 2009 - 06:41 AM

According to Wikipedia (sometimes notoriously incorrect), CD's ARE layers of Polycarbonate, Metal, lacquer and ink. I suggest the reason it is not the tough stuff we are accustomed to, is probably the tension + resonance (on impact) between the welded/glued layers, and the burned grooves cause it to break????? hummmmmm interesting possibilities here!! So John,:yay: we are on the trail - Pete:?

Replicated CDs are mass-produced initially using a hydraulic press. Small granules of raw polycarbonate plastic are fed into the press while under heat. A screw forces the liquefied plastic into the mold cavity. The mold closes with a metal stamper in contact with the disc surface. The plastic is allowed to cool and harden. Once opened, the disc substrate is removed from the mold by a robotic arm, and a 15 mm diameter center hole (called a stacking ring) is removed. The cycle time, the time it takes to "stamp" one CD, is usually 2–3 seconds.

This method produces the clear plastic blank part of the disc. After a metallic reflecting layer (usually aluminum, but sometimes gold or other metals) is applied to the clear blank substrate, the disc goes under a UV light for curing and it is ready to go to press. To prepare to press a CD, a glass master is made, using a high-powered laser on a device similar to a CD writer. The glass master is a positive image of the desired CD surface (with the desired microscopic pits and lands). After testing, it is used to make a die by pressing it against a metal disc.

The die is a negative image of the glass master: several are typically made, depending on the number of pressing mills that are to be making the CD. The die then goes into a press and the physical image is imposed onto the blank CD, leaving a final positive image on the disc. A small amount of lacquer is then applied as a ring around the center of the disc, and fast spinning spreads it evenly over the surface. Edge protection lacquer is also applied before the disc is finished. The disc can then be printed and packed.

Manufactured CDs that are sold in stores are sealed via a process called "polywrapping" or shrink wrapping.

Diagram of CD layers.
A. A polycarbonate disc layer has the data encoded by using bumps.
B. A reflective layer reflects the laser back.
C. A lacquer layer is used to prevent oxidation
D. Artwork is screen printed on the top of the disc.
E. A laser beam reads the polycarbonate disc, is reflected back, and read by the player.

Edited by hazmail, 01 June 2009 - 06:45 AM.

#23 hazmail


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Posted 01 June 2009 - 06:44 AM

Sinyo- Hot cooking oil in a frying pan, Olive oil of course - thinking of your cholesterol level.pete

#24 pizza



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Posted 01 June 2009 - 09:46 AM

there are numerous versions of polycarbonate.

Pete posted this link on my ? about bending Lexan (general electric's trade name for their PCs - they make many versions too)

Sheffield Plastics - Product Information - Sheet Products - Makrolon® (Polycarbonate)

Sheffield Plastics - Product Information - Sheet Products - Makrolon® Hygard (Laminates) (this is probably similar to the stuff they use for the top window of logging cranes, like when the branch came down like a javelin on axeman, as well as bulletproof (to a point, probably wouldn't stop level 4 threat armor piercing rounds) "glass".

the CDs use PCs that are probably designed for optical clarity, not toughness or impact resistance.

#25 Green_Fingers



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Posted 02 June 2009 - 08:51 AM

Hi all,

Well finally got to go fishing over the long wekend, as spring his here, so didn't see all the replys to this thread until today, at least got something productive to do at work now!

Glad this post was of some interest to many of you.

I have to admit I have been pouring soft baits for several years now and never tried my hand at hard baits..... Well, fed up by the fumes and encouraged by nice weather, I carved my first crank bait from a broom handle this weekend and discovered that it is as addictive, if not more, than pouring soft baits!!!!...will posrt a pic when I get a chance.

Thanks guys, now I have a 2nd lure making hobby to eat up all my time and money:lol:



#26 TeamBacklash


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Posted 02 June 2009 - 06:54 PM

VERY cool! Never even thought of that. I have a ton of useless CD/DVDs thanks to early versions of Roxio. :mad: LOL

Thanks for the post...

#27 diemai


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Posted 02 June 2009 - 11:35 PM

@ Green_Fingers

Go ahead , ....I'm eager to see your first wooden bait;):yes: !

good luck , diemai:yay:

#28 Milia B

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Posted 03 June 2009 - 02:20 PM

A very cool idea indeed!

#29 Sonny.Barile


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Posted 03 June 2009 - 08:25 PM

This is just vacuum forming without the vacuum.............Probably can be done with ABS plastic. Try cutting peices from the flat areas of a large laundry detergent bottle. It takes less heat to form it as it starts to soften at about 170 f.and will completely melt at about 250 f. A paint stripper gun should provide enough heat to get the job done.....it will also get hot enough to melt cds. This is done in other craft hobbies commonly using polystyrene. I would use caution with heating up CD's or any plastic as they emit bad fumes...................

Just an idea for the CD's breakage issue.......maybe paint the inside of the bait with silicone rubber before glueing the halves together. This will help to dampen the shock from impact loads....

Edited by Sonny.Barile, 03 June 2009 - 08:26 PM.