Crankbait lip slot
40 replies to this topic
Posted 04 June 2009 - 03:02 PM
I have tried and tried to cut the lip slots true, but it is always a little off. I mostly use hand tools. Does anyone have any good ideas on how to make a good lip cut?
Posted 04 June 2009 - 03:13 PM
I use thicker lips so I cut mine on a table saw while the lure is still a block.
Posted 04 June 2009 - 05:26 PM
Well, i dont have a table saw or and powered saw. has anyone done this with a jig or anything?
Posted 04 June 2009 - 05:43 PM
I'd second to Bester , it's really the best way you could go , cutting your lipslot while the lureblank is still having a rectangular cross-section , only the sideview outline cut out already !
If you don't have a bandsaw accessible , you could utilize a 90° angle gauge to pencil-mark the slot at the belly side in relation to one flank of the blank , .......after fix your blank in a vise and cut with a handsaw right on the marked line .
You'd need a woodsaw with a rigid and higher blade(approx. 2") , since this one would provide a straight cut and no tend to wander sideward as much when getting deeper .
The higher blade kinda guides itself through its cut and is not likely to twist within like f.e. a narrow metal handsaw blade does at times .
Don't attempt to cut fast , but rather more accurate ,.... frequently check your work and probably correct direction of cut if neccessary .
good luck , diemai:yay:
Posted 04 June 2009 - 06:13 PM
Ok, thanks. I will try those steps also. I think I am going to try and devise an angle jig some how that I can clamp in my vise. It seems no matter how slow I cut, I get off course in one plane or another.
Posted 04 June 2009 - 06:14 PM
A dremel type of tool would also work and not be as hard on the pocket book. You'd have to carefully follow your pencil line.
Posted 04 June 2009 - 09:36 PM
I use a Stanley 15-809 mini hacksaw ($6) to cut my lip slots after the bait is shaped. I draw a line on one side of the bait and do my best. I use 2 sizes lexan lips 0.040" and 0.060". As it turns out the hacksaw blade (which I think is just a standard length hacksaw blade) is about 0.040" thick. So if I'm going to install a 0.040" lip I'll insert it after sawing then look head on into the lip to see how it looks. If it is slightly off angle I fold some sandpaper and can fine tune by sanding the slit. If I'm going to install a 0.060" lip I'll first stick in a 0.040" lip after sawing and see how it looks. Then I just widen the lip with sandpaper (and in the appropriate direction if it is slightly off which I will have noticed from looking at the 0.040" lip). Then I'll stick in the 0.060" when it just fits but is still tight. Then I can further fine tune by sanding the slot appropriately. Once my bait is finished I can further fine tune by dremeling the lip with a fine grinder like rapala used to do when they were made in Finland. I've also just recently starting using a grinding wheel on the dremel to cut lip slots and it is much faster but you must be careful and it takes a little practice to get good at. So you could get get some 0.040" Lexan (had to specialy order mine from a local hobby shop, but I've also seen in on ebay) and a saw blade that is approximately 0.040" thick and go from there.
Edited by pizza, 04 June 2009 - 09:47 PM.
Posted 04 June 2009 - 10:03 PM
Ah, that sounds sort of like what I was doing. Except I think I will try the dremel thing to. Thanks for the info guys.
Posted 04 June 2009 - 11:36 PM
Indeed a "Dremel" comes in very helpful for lure carving .
As for the lipslots its cutting wheels are well suited , but also try to obtain other cutting wheel brands , if they would fit onto the shaft ,..... since the original "Dremel" ones are a bit too thick for my taste .
You can also cut slots lengthwise the lureblanks to set in a thru-wire harness into it , the coarse sanding drums are perfect for rough rounding off body contoures ,..... it drills pilot holes for eye screws and you can utilize its various router bits for carving details like f. e. gillplates onto your lure , even shape cupped popper faces .
I even used it to make the cavities of lead casting molds out of aluminium , but that task takes it to its limits .
I really might not want to miss my "Dremel":nuhuh: !
good luck , diemai:yay:
Posted 05 June 2009 - 06:18 AM
short board draw your line 2 c clamps to hold the board on the line , use a small saw you. dont need fancy to make lures . i know i still use hand tools ,an yes i got table saw an others learned from an old c. b thank you
Posted 05 June 2009 - 10:14 AM
I just started using a dremel and they are great. The cutting wheels I use came from a harbor freight kit like this. They are about 0.040" thick. I plan to use some of the other accesories in it to shape a frog body next.
- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
Edited by pizza, 05 June 2009 - 10:16 AM.
Posted 05 June 2009 - 11:00 AM
Exactly what I refered to , ......0.040" is about 1,0 millimetre , the original cutting wheels from "Dremel" are at least 1,5 millimetres thick ,...... they do cut the wire harness slots for my 1,0 millimetre SSt wire way too wide !
Also found a tiny round saw blade on a fleamarket the other day , only need to make some kinda arbor to chuck it centered .
Good luck with your frog:yes: ........greetz , diemai:yay:
Posted 05 June 2009 - 11:39 AM
I'd be really careful about putting an actual toothed saw blade wheel on a Dremel.
The abrasive discs are kind of forgiving, but a toothed blade will grab, kick, and run. It can do real damage to lures, but, more importantly, fingers. Be sure you have the lure body clamped, and both hands on the Dremel and braced, before you turn it on and start cutting.
I've worked with wood saws all my life (I have the stitches on my leg to prove it), and I would never use one of those blades in a Dremel.
The abrasive discs may be a little slower, and a little thicker, but they are a whole lot safer.
Posted 05 June 2009 - 11:56 AM
@ mark poulson
If I think over it , I really see point in your warning , Mark:yes: !
No wonder , that "Dremel" does not sell such an arbor for their round saw blade , but only sells a hole accessories set for it , meant to use exclusively for a stationary multi tool , mounted rigid in a sort of a small drill press , I guess .
I've only thought over that option of a small saw blade , since it is always difficult for me to find those thin cutting wheels ,.... thought , that a saw blade would last longer , since my actual stock of wheels has gone down to maybe two left !
But I'll keep my hands off it now , as long as I still have them in shape:huh: !
Thanks a lot , Mark , .......greetz , Dieter:yay:
Posted 05 June 2009 - 12:21 PM
I bought the circular saw attachment for the dremel. It was unusable with the built in guard, so I removed it. But the thing is ferrocious, so it now resides in the box marked 'bad buys' and will never be used again.
When I used the dremel for cutting lip slots, I would start off with a 0.8mm abrasive cutting wheel, then open the slot with the 1.5 wheel. I would hold the lure in front of me, belly up, at such an angle that the cutter wheel appears as a horizontal line. This allows me to control the angle visually.
The abbrasive wheels are prone to shatter, so you MUST use eye protection, ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL. In fact, every time you use a gremel, you should be wearing eye protection. Go slowly, these cutters tend to snatch at the wood, not a big problem unless your finger is in the path of the cutter, so beware.
Dremels look deceptively harmless, but they can be brutal if not given the respect that they deserve.
After cutting a slot, insert a 6" steel rule. This magnifies any errors so you can adjust the slot with the cutter until square.
Posted 05 June 2009 - 01:07 PM
thanks for the warnings on the dremel tool guys. I've noticed the abrasive cutting wheels (which is what I use to cut lip slots) can also grab and melt lexan and plastic. I was messing around with an old poes and when I got to the wood/plastic interface where the lip is it grabbed. So be careful. Also be careful the deeper in you get with the cutting wheel.
Posted 05 June 2009 - 03:16 PM
Dave , what you mentioned about magnifying the lip slot angle error by inserting a ruler really works ,...... done this several times before on lathe-turned lure blanks , when I obviuosly could not cut the slot , when the stock was still rectangular .
But instead of a ruler I had always used a bigger sheet piece of that particular Lexan or aluminium , from which I would cut the lip !
And thanks about your advice about eye protection ,..... did not bother to mention , since for me it has become most common working almost 30 years in the metal industry , just needless to say ,.............but others might not know:yes: !
greetz , Dieter:yay:
Posted 05 June 2009 - 03:41 PM
Thanks for the Harbor Freight link. I just ordered one of the kits.
Posted 05 June 2009 - 06:10 PM
I always use a fixture to cut my bill slots. If you are making flat baits get a piece of 1 x 4 or something of similar size depending on how big your bait is. It should be something fairly hard like yellow pine. Trace your patern on it along with a line showing where the bill slot is to be. First cut the line that would represent the bill to get the blade into the center of the 1 x 4, then cut the shape of the bait out. After you carve the bait, put it inside the fixture and eyeball it for square. It needs to fit snug, so either carve it a little big or make your fixture a little small. Use the saw kerf on the fixture as a saw guide to cut your bill slot. I have several of these for all my different baits, but instead of using the saw kerf for a handsaw guide, I use a miter guage on my bandsaw to do the work. For round body baits I make a fixture out of fiberglass resin. I put some tape on my saw table with some marks on it so I know where to stop every time. It takes a little practice, but you can make some very accurate cuts doing this.
Posted 07 June 2009 - 07:55 AM
Lots of great ideas! I have tried a lot of them. My band saw has been the most reliable for me; when the wood is still square. I don't worry too much if the cut is off somewhat because I use 1 or 2 shims if the bill is off line. I make the shims by flattening copper wire and snipping off what I need. my hands are not steady enough to use a dremel tool in this case.
Xacto has a backing saw blade like a tiny dovetail saw that does a good job.