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Boskabouter

Can I get these to work?

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Wanting something else to build besides sofbaits and jerkbaits, I started working on some homebuild spinnerbaits. Wooden bodies about 3.5" thick, selfmade eyes, and wires and blades attached. One with skirt, one with 2 trebles.

Now when I started testing these it turned out the bodies need lots of lead to keep them swimming the way they should. Still, even now when I put in a lot of lead they keep turning upside down. Are wooden bodies these sizes simply useless because of their bouyancy? Or is it something else I'm doing wrong? Is size and angle of the wires decisive for it's action?

Any input appreciated.

Note that in the pics the wires are uncut.

Grtz Paul/ Holland

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There are a few things wrong here, your first problem is the wood, you are correct, it's too bouyant the next thing wrong is the blades are upside down, the blades on the clevis should have the curved surface facing down. If you would be fortunate enough to get the right amount of weight to keep the bait from rolling over you would find that the blades will not spin very well if at all. I do have to admit though it's a very neat concept and if you can manage to be able to balance out the body I think it would be a killer for sure!! Add more weight but make sure it's the same on both sides and in the exact same position on each side and turn those blades around and you should be good to go.

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Smalljaw is correct, but besides turning the blades around there needs to be more space between the leading and trailing blades. As a general rule, the rear end of the leading blade should not touch the front end of the trailing blade.

Blade type will play a big role in the amount of torque developed by the upper arm. Willows will develop a small amount of torque as compared to a Colorado and therefore the body is less likely to roll over. For my money, I would try Doc Shelton blades to begin with. All the odd number blades turn one direction and all the even numbered blades turn in the opposite direction. I.E., using a #4 and a #5 on the upper arm will cause an almost neutral torque because both will be turning in opposite directions.

Smalljaw is also correct about adding enough weight. Because the sides of the body present such a large surface area, the lure will be particularly sensitive to any torque from the upper arm. I believe your idea could be made to work, but I'd rather try it on a double buzz. Later----Bladebait

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@ Boskabouter

I remember , that there were similar lures posted in here before , one in a thread by one guy from Canada(if my memory serves me right) , and another one in the gallery , I think , by one of our Swedish members .

But especially the first one mentioned was already at least 6 months ago , certainly more :????

I think , that your blades are too large in relation to the body , especially the brass ones .

Though all blades always tend to right at the highest level , their circular force could let the lure swim laying sideward , if not sufficient counterweight is provided .

I am not very fond of sucha rigid connection between wooden body and blade arm either , I'd make the blade arm detacheable , even only for storage reasons .

I have seen such detacheable (buzz)blade arms in a luremaking book for the first time , connected to a sinking lipless crank(Ratt'L'Trap) to render it a surface buzzbait , also to the tail eye of a "Rapala Original"(rear hook switched to tow eye) for same purpose .

I have made such detacheable blade arms to rig to leadheads and spoons , but undoubtely they would work on sinking gliders as well , provided , that the blade is not too large .

The larger a blade , the more resistance it has on retrieve and thus the more it would tend to ride more to the rear , changing the level of a lure mounted rigid to them .

good luck , Dieter:yay:

Edited by diemai
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Thank you all for the input so far. I guess I have some knowledge about how to make a good jerkbait but spinnerbaits are quite a new story to me.

I learned more from your guys' posts then I did know :)

I certainly wasn't going to give up on this project.

Looking at your recommendations I'm going to turn the blades, put in some more weigth

and trying to get this thing going.

I also like the idea of attaching a lip to the body. Going to give that a shot as well.

Like said, that will make some vibrations under water.

I will keep you updated.

Any additional input is always welcome.

Once again, thanks so far.

Grtz Paul

Holland

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here's a pic I had in my archive of "things I'd like to build", I think this is, mangeboy's bait, not sure I have the name right but he kick's out some nice work. I had emailed him about this one with a few questions some time ago. Sounds like they run well in the h2o.

Keep us updated. I'd like to give this a go sometime and your learnings will only help.

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Edited by bbduc
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Hi all,

Bob, that's not Magnus' work, It's made by some other Swedish guy, looking at the paintjob.

I have the two spinnerbaits up and running!

I put in some more lead, adjusted the blades and wires, painted them and they work.

Blades run perfect. The only thing I noticed is that the bodies sink a little with the tail down. With a small ball of lead on the wire I got rid of that as well. I can't wait to catch some pikies on them.

I'm going to build another couple of these and try to build them (near to) perfect.

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In the meantime I also made a spinner-jerk.

This bait is awesome.

Besides the blades running very nice and smooth, the body also wiggles while retreiving. I lost a nice fish on it this morning.

This bait casts well and to be honest I expect more catches on this one.

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Al the baits have homemade 3d eyes

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Grtz Paul

Holland

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Paul,

They look great and even better it sounds like they're running well and catching fish. The latter being the more important. Great job and thanks for posting your progress, always a good feeling when you finally get them up and running correctly. My guess is these baits will land you plenty of toothy critters.

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