I am presently working on some homemade casting spoons again , so I gave it an intial shot to try out something , that has been on my mind for quite a while now .
Don't know , whether it would finally lead to a successful and functional lure design , but first trials in my bath tub turned out promising .
Some of you might have seen my , by now already proven , "DinnerBell" spoons displayed in my gallery uploads quite a while ago ,.... so I have thought about utilizing it's beaded wire arm principle(generates a clicking noise on retrieve) on a different , more "tradional" spoon model .
Problem is , that such spoons do not have any sharp kink in their cupping for a bead to engage to generate noise , ......so I had to alter that principle a bit .
I chose my spoon design "Mouse Spoon" for it , since it performs a very pronounced side-to-side wobble , virtually turning into an almost vertical position on every sideward swing on retrieve .
Yesterday I have furnished some test lures with two different beaded wire form arrangements and tried them in my bath tub for a first impression .
Please check out containing pictures , surely you'll instantly dig the intended principle of those clickers .
One rig I had put into the inside of the spoons cupping , the metal beads of that one are hollow and do not provide a lot of weight .
I guess , that this is the reason for this one not to have generated any sound at all , ..............it could just not swing around its wire shaft to hit the spoon's inside with it's beads since the oncoming current obviously "nailed" it in place .
The other rig with little larger solid beads mounted to the cupping's outside worked pretty well , but it took a while(retrieve path) to get the spoon to kick to wobble , but once it did , it went along with a quite loud "click-click-click-click" sound .
I tinkered a bit with the angle of that wire form and found , that the beads have to stand as far apart as possible , ........closer together they seem to act more and more as a keel weight killing the spoons wobble quite a bit . Also bending them back,-or forward(towards the tips of the spoon) kills the action somehow .
Finally I overbent the wire form ,....it now binds inbetween its bearing beads , so I had to stop my tests , ...... some more tinkering to go through during the next days ,... maybe also try a single "clicker" instead of these "twin clickers" , even though this would surely minor the click frequency for 50% .
Also need to try a "twin clicker" rigged with the heavier , solid beads on the INSIDE of the cupping as well , and see , whether this would not cause the spoon to flip over instantly instead of wobble ?
I'd much prefer an "inside cupping clicker" , so that I could still apply reflective stick-on foil to the outside of the spoon , which would otherwise surely kill all of the clicking noise , if "outside cupping clickers" would hit it ,....... it definately requires metal on metal !
Wish me luck:wink: , .........greetz , diemai:yay:
I really like the idea of the clackers, seems like it would work very well on a spoon that has a great amount of wobble like your "mouse spoons". Also like you said it looks like the clackers would add to much weight to your spoons killing the action of them. So maybe if you put the clackers as far back on the spoon as possible it would not kill the action to much.
When I first seen the pictures of the spoons I thought that they were jointed. Do you think that if you made the spoons jointed it would even work? The reason I ask is becasue it seems if they were jointed they would could make noises at the joints.
Thanks for sharing your idea:worship:, you got me thinking now hahaha
Thank you , guys , .......still need to do further trials , anyway:? !
Believe me , Jacob , I have thought about jointed spoons as well , but I guess , that it would not work the same way like on hardbaits , since spoons are not buoyant , so one important factor is missing .
If you'd rig two cupped metal sheets behind one another(with simple split rings as joints) , the rear part would probably only act as a trailer or parachute and slow down or even kill all moves of the first one as well .
I have once rigged three or four kinked and rather worthless foreign coins behind one another that way , and they just pulled straight through the water , whereas a single coin always evolved a certain wiggle !
One could maybe only hinge them in a certain way , so that they could not move up and down , but swing around a pivot axis leading crosswise the flat sheet to either side , so virtually similar to the connecting clutch to attach a trailer to a tractor or a clutch between train waggons .
This way they could keep a cupped surface through their entire length , only change the sideward profile , which would certainly have an impact on their action .
I am sometimes cracking my brains about such , but never came to a practical solution , that would be also reasonably easy to execute .
I am familiar to such arrangement as well , made some like this many years ago after book and catalog pictures , .........but can't even tell , how loud their generated noise is , since I never tested them in my bath tub , .......just took over the design like that !
But thanks about your hint anyway , now I am gonna dig them out of my storage boxes down the basement and check them , I am really interested to compare !
This is an interesting idea, and I'm sure you will find the best solution to achieve your goal. But pardon me my ignorance. If you intend your spoons to make an appealing noise, and your spoons have the necessary wobble to create a noise, why don't you simply attach a rattle to them? Like the ones you made already, as far as I remember, out of brass tube and BB? The rattles need to be waterproof, and you could simply glue them using epoxy, or you could conceive an attaching system (wire, or something else).
I had the idea of gluing a BB rattle under the lip of a crankbait, but haven't tried it yet. Too lazy, I think.
Thought about a ready-made rattles as well , ........I have some small plastic jig rattles , that surely could be attached with some wire , but their sound is not as loud !
And the crankbait rattles of brass tubing , that I sometimes set into wooden baits , are not waterproof , ........I had to try soldering their lids , which is quite finacky in my point of view , since if one side would be done , heating up the opposite side to apply solder would cause the solder on the first lid to flow off again , I guess ?
Just made some more bath tub trials with these spoons an hour ago , and I am quite surprised that a "twin clicker" INSIDE of the cupping worked pretty well !
I had thought , that it would let the spoon flip over easier , but it does not at all , even seems to stabilize its running .........at higher paces it hardly turns around as well .
The clicking noise generated this way is still allright , though it seems to be a little lower as generated with an OUTSIDE cupping "twin clicker" .
Also rigged one spoon with a "single clicker" INSIDE of cupping , that one worked either ,....... but why mounting such , if a twin clicker also works , even at double frequency ?
Anyway , guess , that I have found a suiting "clicker" rig now , still wanna try one out leading crosswise through the spoon with one solid bead on either end , OUTSIDE and INSIDE cupping alike .
After I hopefully could polish and decorate the spoons and finally throw them !
I also was fooling around with the video function of my little cheap camera and afterwards uploading that video on my "picasa" and afterwards "youtube"(a complete computer dummy slowly steps out of the shadows) .
It is of very , very poor quality , my bathroom is not that much illuminated and me stupid also had failed to open up the curtains !
Anyway , probably this is how the fish would also see my "Clicking Mouse Spoon" after sundown , .......sorry , its my first video , guess , that I could only get better !
greetz , diemai:yay:
Edited by diemai, 13 July 2009 - 01:46 PM. text and link addition
Great , that you could still recognize something...........!
It is the doubled cord tail giving these spoons their snake-like appearance , off course also the pronounced cupping of the metal(you can view better pictures of that "Mouse Spoon" in my gallery uploads) .
This model has been amongst the most difficult , that I've ever made , .....it does not forgive bigger inaccuracy in its cupping grade , also it can't be made of thicker sheet , .....1,0 mm is the best choice ,....... 1,3 mm about the maximum .
If getting too thick (thus too heavy) , the circular force of the pronounced swings of the body would accelerate that higher weight too much and the spoon would be more likely to overturn , even at slower retrieve speeds .
It is the only spoon shape , that I came across so far , that is able to toss such an attachement without loosing its appeal ,..... usually many spoon models are pretty much vulnerable to such ,..........one small leaf fouling the hook and they won't wiggle well no more .
Even thought about rigging counterrotating props on either end of that spoon now...........!
PS : Forgot to mention in my previous post , that the "twin clickers" that I've now found out to work well on the INSIDE cupping , are equipped with SOLID metal beads ,.... hollow beads did not work at all , as I stated in the very first post of this thread .