Jump to content

- - - - -

Dick Nite's and Heat Setting

  • Please log in to reply
3 replies to this topic

#1 dhockey11



  • TU Member
  • PipPip
  • 31 posts

Posted 14 July 2009 - 04:17 PM

Ok, more qs about Dick Nites:

I have read numerous threads on and some mention problems such as paint wrinkling. Is this due to the solvents in DN interacting with the acrylic paint, or with something underneath the paint? One mentioned cure to this for Createx was heat setting. Can all acrylics be 'heat set' or only Createx? Is heat setting necessary for other acrylic paint brands? If a barrier was put between the acrylic and the DN topcoat, would it decrease the durability of the finish?

On a kind of side note, modellers (planes/trains/cars etc.) use future floor polish (also known as Johnson's Klear and Pledge with Future) as a final clear, solvent barrier, and clear parts polish. It is soluble in ammonia, but nothing else that I know of, so a coat of this over the painted bait could protect the acrylics from DN in theory. Has anyone tried this?



#2 BobP


    Advanced Member

  • TU Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 4,748 posts
  • Location:
    Summerfield, N.C.

Posted 14 July 2009 - 08:26 PM

IMO you should heat set all brands of acrylic paint. I began doing it to speed paint drying so I could shoot the next color faster but it also apparently makes the paint a bit more durable when hit with solvent based clear coats like DN. I don't go crazy with the hair dryer but do like to get it nice and dry. Too much, too fast and you can push wet paint around on the lure where you don't want it or cause the air in a wood bait to expand and break through the lure waterproofing to cause a blemish.

DN has a pretty volatile solvent that flashes off fast. I have no idea whether Future floor polish would offer any protection but if you understand why the wrinkling happens it's not hard to avoid. In my experience, wrinkles happen if the DN is thick enough anywhere on the bait to form a skin with still-liquid DN trapped underneath. It can happen even if you apply a nice even coating because DN has a very thin consistency and tends to run. Wrinkling used to happen to me occasionally when I dipped in DN and put baits on a lure turner. Although the baits were rotating, the shape of the bait or the axis of rotation allowed the DN to collect in some spots. Now I dip baits in DN and just hang them up to dry. The DN drips off the tail quickly enough that the problem doesn't arise. So the fix for me was a "two-fer". Fixed the problem and made clear coating with DN easier than before. I don't spray DN so maybe some TUer who does can comment on avoiding wrinkles in that regimen.

#3 mark poulson

mark poulson

    Advanced Member

  • TU Sponsor
  • PipPipPip
  • 9,794 posts
  • Location:
    Oakley, CA

Posted 16 July 2009 - 07:41 AM

From what I've read, T shirt paints change molecularly when heated, making them stronger and waterproof. That's why you have to iron the T shirt after you paint it, so the paint doesn't come off when you wash it.
Not all acrylic paints are T shirt paints.
I spray Createx transparent base over any water based markers, solvent based markers, or off brand manuf. paints that I'm not sure of, and heat set it, before I dip.
Be sure to let the lure dry between dips. The urethane is thicker at the bottom, when you hang it to drip dry, and may take a little longer to lose all it's solvent. I hit it lightly with a hair dryer before I dip, and before I re dip.
One other thing that can make problems is if you use bondo, and it's not completely set before you paint. It may not show right away, but the bond to the primer will be lost, and, eventually, the whole paint scheme will bubble at that place on the lure.
Been there, done that. :pissed:

#4 Lure--Prof


    Advanced Member

  • TU Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,199 posts
  • Location:

Posted 17 July 2009 - 11:05 AM

I don't know about Future in 2009, but several years ago I used several different J&J commercial floor sealers and finishes, and they all yellowed slightly after about a year---and this is with little to no sunlight exposure.

I seal all my balsa lures with epoxy, usually Envirotex Lite, prior to painting with Createx. Besides adding strength to the bait, it also insures that I can really pour the heat to it when I heat-set it, without causing any blistering or blemishes of any kind. I've been using Dicknite's topcoat for 3 years now over Createx, and never knew what this paint-wrinkling looked like until a friend sent me a lure he'd done without adequately heatsetting it. He figured out his mistake after that first ruined bait.

I also do as Mark mentioned with my Sharpie signatures, BTW. Createx and Parma are the only paints (basically the same thing) I use, and Dicknite's is the only clearcoat (I brush it on), and I have zero problems. I am very happy with my lures, and I am very particular when it comes to my tackle.