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Hinge Pin ?
3 replies to this topic
Posted 18 July 2009 - 12:13 PM
I just got back from a week of fishing and had one of my hinge pins come out and lost the last two sections of my bait. This same scenario happened a few weeks ago to a guy testing my baits.
I have tried a number of different glues and also used epoxy putty to fill the end of the pin hole but that is a little messy and has a short working time.
What are the other swimbait makers, that are using a pin system using to keep the pin seated without fear of it coming out. A lot of work goes into a bait to just have a section fly off on a long cast.
Posted 18 July 2009 - 01:29 PM
Maybe someone can explain this to me! JMHO, I feel I can make a bait that is just as strong, with segment gaps as exactly spaced, and which can never separate, by using simple double screw eyes for the hinge parts. I hand twist the screw eye hinges out of stainless wire to tailor their eye size and length to the particular bait. I understand why commercial factories use the hinge pin system on swimbaits. It's certainly the easiest and maybe the only reliable system for mass manufacturing segmented hollow plastic bodies. But I think just the opposite is true for custom hand made baits made from solid wood or foam plastic. What am I missing?
Posted 20 July 2009 - 09:54 AM
I put my pins back in before I top coat, so the holes are semi-closed.
Maek sure you pin hole is tight, as in drill undersized, and then use a piece of the pin wire to ream out the hole to size.
I leave the pins in when I paint, but don't push them all the way in, so the top of the pins always has some paint on it when I do finally assemble the lure.
If I have a pin that's loose, I bend the top 1/4" a little, so it has to be force into the hole.
I use bicycle spokes, and .072 and .092 screw eyes for my hinges.
One of the things using the hinge pin system does is move the pivot point back into the front of each section, which seems to enhance the swimming action at lower speeds.
For me, screw eyes are easier to adjust for gap, and faster than having to epoxy set twist wire.
Also, I'm able to use heavier guage wire for both parts of the hinges.
I started out using twisted sst wire, but moved to the screw eye/hinge pin system, and am much happier with the results.
Posted 21 July 2009 - 03:43 PM
Now THAT's a good idea!
What sized baits do you use these for?
I'm working on a 5.5" bluegill, and I've been trying to figure out what to use, but this sounds like the way to go...if they're strong enough.