chisum

confused about sealing

11 posts in this topic

are you guys sealing the bare wood prior to adding anything else to your lures?

i have always thought to seal after i had glued in the plastic lip and wire in the belly of the bait - leaving a thin strip of exposed dry glue which fills the cut slot.

i need some sealer that is very thin and will really sink into the wood to keep the water out but it must also adhere / dry if it comes into contact with a substance other than the wood. it would be nice too if it could be applied just a few times to efficiently waterproof the wood but not clog up the precut wire/lip slots. maybe i should only apply sealer to the bare wood before any glueing of lips or wire take place?

most of the fishing i do is for longer periods of time away from home - like a week maybe 2 weeks - so i want my lures to work even if the topcoat is penetrated until i can get home and refinish them - this is why i won't use any waterbase paint - only enamel because i have fished with lures that had no clearcoat and the enamel stays on pretty well and it doesn't dissolve away.

i understand that a sealer over the wood is very important, but it seems pointless for me to apply a hard finish similar to a topcoat over wood and not a sealer that soaks in. this type of finish will just get penetrated the same as the topcoat right?

thanks for any help. scott.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Many of us paint with water based paints so waterproofing does double duty - it adds a layer of protection against water infiltration (which water based paints don't) and as importantly, it prevents the wood grain from rising when hit with water based paint. With enamel, you don't have the latter problem so if you are satisfied with the durability of the enamel and clearcoat you use, I don't necessarily see any reason to change. If you'd like to add a waterproofer, I'd suggest Devcon Two Ton epoxy diluted to a thin consistency (as much as 50/50) with acetone or virgin lacquer thinner. When dry and cured, D2T is pretty inert and will rarely react with solvent based paints. Using other solvent based waterproofers and then painting with enamel is a crap shoot. It may work, or the enamel may react with chemicals in the waterproofer and wrinkle. I can't guarantee no problems with D2T but think it's your best chance.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you want a sealer that soaks into the wood, the best choice would be the propionate solution. There are tens of threads in this forum about this subject.

The epoxy can also be used as a sealer, but it won't penetrate the wood. Anyway, it will adhere very well to wood.

But not even propionate solution will penetrate the wood too deep. If you have enough patience to use the search function of this forum, you will have all your questions answered.

You say you use ename paints because they are waterproof and do not need a clearcoat on top of them. Well, you need to change your way of thinking, especially if you fish a lure for a week or two, as you said.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you want a sealer that soaks into the wood, the best choice would be the propionate solution. There are tens of threads in this forum about this subject.

The epoxy can also be used as a sealer, but it won't penetrate the wood. Anyway, it will adhere very well to wood.

But not even propionate solution will penetrate the wood too deep. If you have enough patience to use the search function of this forum, you will have all your questions answered.

You say you use ename paints because they are waterproof and do not need a clearcoat on top of them. Well, you need to change your way of thinking, especially if you fish a lure for a week or two, as you said.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

chisum.... go to the rona or hardware store. get sanding sealer. immerse lure, let dry then prime it. that will help your baits last.. with temerature fluctuations here in ontario, that will help out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You might also try Minwax Wood Hardener. It's designed to penetrate, and seal out water. Just be sure to let it dry for at least 24 hours before you prime it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Confused? me too

I have started using propionate coupled with sanding between some of the dunks. Neat stuff, however the balsa is still grainy in some spots that would probably show in the final condition.

Therefore, I also use D2T thinned with D-alcohol. (I tried thinning with acetone; can't do that again! pock city.)

Open to suggestions as well.

ken

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

another thing you might try is tung oil. it soaks into wood, drys quickly and won't swell the grain. i have used it a lot for furniture finishes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I realized I had two quarts of this stuff in the shop when I went to move all my paints the other day.....Do you guys think this would work as a sealer for wood baits before painting?....It says right on the can that it can be used as a sealer for wood, but I wanted some opinions from you guys before I wasted my time with it.

Staysclear-poly.jpg

Staysclear-poly.jpg

Staysclear-poly.jpg

Staysclear-poly.jpg

Staysclear-poly.jpg

Staysclear-poly.jpg

Staysclear-poly.jpg

Staysclear-poly.jpg

4623_thumb.attach

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, I decided to go ahead and seal a few topwater plugs with the above posted poly, and I learned two things real quick.....its thicker then what I expected right outta the can and worked ok for dipping, but I think it might of worked better if it had been a bit thinner.....and secondly and probably the most important thing I learned was DONT shake the can of poly right before you dip your baits.....unless you want them covered in bubbles.....lol8O

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now