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12 replies to this topic
Posted 23 July 2009 - 11:45 PM
ok. if you haven't noticed, my recent posts have been about clear coats. i've decided that i'm fed up with the BS commonly known as epoxy, and i'm looking for a new clearcoat. i want a 1 part clearcoat that i can dip my lures in (or maybe brush if i have to), that sets up relatively quickly (no longer than 20 min), and that has durability comparable to epoxy.
my friend (who does automotive finishes) just sprayed a lure of mine with what he called "acrylic lacquer mixed with enamel resin". its been a few days since he sprayed it, and the stuff still isn't hard, i can put my thumbnail through it.
he suggests i try straight up lacquer, saying its really hard and tough. he reccomended minwax's lacquer.
so i went on minwax's website, and saw they have a few clearcoats.
would any of of these be a suitable clearcoat, and which one(s) would be the best?
Add beauty and durability to your wood with Oil Based Clear Protective Finishes.
thanks for helping guys, this is starting to get frustrating.
oh, one more thing, what is the main component in DickNites?
Posted 24 July 2009 - 08:08 AM
MinWax is good. also check out General Finishes topcoats, rated #1 by Fine Woodworking magazine. Rockler woodworking sells it. it is all i use for furniture projects. i spilled some in my truck toolbox about 8 years ago, still there!
Posted 24 July 2009 - 04:59 PM
would the MinWax Brushing Lacquer be a good choice for a topcoat?
Posted 24 July 2009 - 06:07 PM
ok, well which of the MinWax products would you reccomend?
Posted 24 July 2009 - 06:19 PM
if i had to use minwax i would use the water based polyacrylic
Posted 24 July 2009 - 10:22 PM
really? i didn't think a waterbased clear coat would do well on something that is intended to be submerged for a long time...
Posted 25 July 2009 - 03:11 PM
I've used the polyacrylic and it will come off in water. I also tried the lacquer and it reacted with the paint. I also dislike mixing epoxy, but it's by far the best topcoat I've used.
Hope this helps.
Posted 29 July 2009 - 01:41 PM
You could do a coat of blonde shellac between the paint and lacquer, should stop any reactions.
Posted 30 July 2009 - 06:44 AM
Wormil - I'm with you, they call it "Clear Hard Shellac" here (with plasticisers) but I am finding some really good uses for it .
DSV - you need hard underneath and tough on top, to finish try some Nyalic, single pack, not moisture cure but has all the GOOD qualities of M/Cure. pete
Posted 30 July 2009 - 09:09 AM
Fishwhittler is 100% correct about Polycrylic's unsuitablity as a clear coat. Many lacquers today, in contrast with a very few years ago, are non-yellowing. Ace Hardware sells a good non-yellowing lacquer, and if they don't have it in stock, they will order it for you.
Every clearcoat has its advocates and detractors, its pluses and minuses, and its own particular learning curve. There is no small amount of info on all of them here that can be obtained with a bit of digging.
Posted 02 August 2009 - 08:37 PM
My experience with polyacrylic wasnt good. I use devcon on anything I want to last. I do make some bluefish baits which dont last very long anyway....on those I use a cheap polyurethane. Its Plaid brand and is sold at AC Moore. It is labeled for exterior use. If brushed on it dries in 30 minutes. I usually use two coats. I did an experiment and dipped a bait and it took about 10 hours to fully cure but it was very thick. I hung it up and kept flipping it every 3 minutes for the first half hour then I just left it hanging. Came out really nice......no airbubbles as is described with dipping other topcoats. ....At 5 bucks for a decent size bottle it is worth the experimentation.....
Posted 03 August 2009 - 12:41 PM
All laquers are voc compliant and suitable for use with water based paints so submerging them for periods of time is not a prob. pervided the lure is kept in good condition and fully sealed:yes: